View Full Version : Find the "OOPS!" moment. . .

10-27-2015, 03:15 AM
So here's one for the laugh.

Building my first Uke and I made a rookie mistake - actually quite a lot of them, but this one was bigger than most of the others. Find it.

Extra credit if you can figure out how I fixed it.


10-27-2015, 03:31 AM
are my eyes totally shot or is the fretboard tapered the wrong way? :)

10-27-2015, 03:38 AM
Fretboard isn't glued on yet. . . but I'll make sure the taper goes the right way when I do that operation :) Thanks!

10-27-2015, 04:08 AM
You used Titebond instead of hide glue. ;)

10-27-2015, 04:17 AM
I'm not sure how your jigs work so I may be completely wrong. Should you have left that soundhole wingnut in place when you glued on the back.

10-27-2015, 04:20 AM
Yep, that was the mistake. It goes to a carriage bolt inset into the jig - no unscrewing it. Problem: Uke attached to the jig, and yes, hide glue probably would've made my life easier should I need to unglue the back. . . but I didn't. How'd I get it off?

10-27-2015, 04:23 AM
Simple solution: cut a soundport in the side, reach through and unscrew the nut. Double win!

10-27-2015, 04:27 AM
Then I reckon you attacked the rear of the jig to get at the carriage bolt head. You encircled the bolt so that the uke could be pulled off the jig.

Life is all about dealing with problems!

10-27-2015, 04:32 AM
YEP! - to RichM.

I first tried "unscrewing" the whole Uke, hoping the wing nut might turn with the Uke - no luck. So I drilled the pilot for the sound port.

Note: I've cleaned up the port with a router and template, but don't have a picture of that.84711847128471484713

10-27-2015, 04:36 AM
good job you were planning to have a sound port there anyway :)

10-27-2015, 04:40 AM
Thanks. I was happy to have already marked for the port's location.

Patrick Madsen
10-27-2015, 05:51 AM
Umm is the back of the neck supposed to be flat?

10-27-2015, 06:03 AM
lol, the real oops was in the design of that jig! I almost posted earlier to guess that the problem was that block, but then thought "nah, he could just turn the bolt itself to unscrew it and then get the block out" :p

It actually is good to have it clamped down while you glue the back to ensure that the geometry is correct.

10-27-2015, 06:09 AM
I was thinking about that. . . I'll exchange the carriage bolt for something that I can unscrew. I want to be able to unscrew it from the top - when working on the open body - and back - for this application. Perhaps I'll just cut the bolt head off and add a nut and washer to the back.

10-27-2015, 09:54 AM
Is your heel block proud of the sides? Might just be a photographic illusion.

Ooops. Didn't read all the way through before posting - I'll admit it.

10-27-2015, 11:00 PM
I once glued the back on with the bracing clamp still inside :mad: I didn't realise until I removed the uke from the mould and I thought "crikey! This is a heavy Soprano" :confused:..and there was no chance I could get it out of the sound hole...so the back had to come off again and be replaced, never did it again after that.