Collings strap buttons

RLM3121

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Does anyone have any experience installing strap buttons on a Collings UC1? The main thing that worries me is how tight the case fits around the uke. I would hate to install buttons and then not have the uke fit in the case. Any shared experience with this would be appreciated. Thanks-Ray
 
Mya-moe has a video that shows the proper way to insert and remove a uke from a tight fitting case. To insert put it in butt first and lower head. To remove lift from the head.
 
I can help you out here, I own a Collings UT2 and that case fits like a second skin. I have strap buttoms on all my ukes, put them on the Collings then could not get it in the case.............at first attempt. Actually it seemed so tight I bought another case for it. But I eventually had the guts to jam it in there one day and it does fit, but really tight. I have since taken it on vaction with me twice, traveling by plane. It works fine and the small case, even a tenor makes it easy to fit in the overhead.

Here is a pictoral of how tight it is and what you have to do to jam it in there.

See it laying on case with shoulder just in and heel button protruding
20151107_144018.jpg

See rear of case pulled out so button just slides in.
20151107_144041.jpg

See bottom uke pushed all the way down
 

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Here are pics of how compressed the padding is at the shoulders. Close to the limit but not quiet. I do not store my Collings in this case, I use the one I bought for it. It does make a great travel case and it does fit but I don't feel good about having that much pressure on it all the time

20151107_144518.jpg20151107_144454.jpg20151107_144237.jpg20151107_144213.jpg20151107_144113.jpg
 
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Thanks for all of the pics. That is a tight fit. I' going to have to think about this as I really like the case. -Ray
 
If you're not married to the metal strap button that is on there now, you can consider using more traditional versions for the same function. I have replaced all the metal pins on my ukes with ones like these as they don't seen to be as large/long as the metal ones and they look a hell of a lot nicer IMO:
BC Pins.jpg
 
I was just thinking that I have a pin and button similar to the ones in the photo. The depth of each are:
Pin(the long one)= 10.8 mm
Button = 11.7mm
As there is really no weight to have to support, the strap button would be a direct replacement. Unscrew the existing and screw in the bone one. You can get them in a dark brown buffalo horn which would match the sunburst of your Ukulele. The ones I've shown are from Bob Colosi in Georgia. http://www.guitarsaddles.com/products.asp
What depth is the metal one that you have?
 
In case you're not familiar with them, a Mobius Strap would work on your Collings and you wouldn't need to add the strap buttons to get hands-free support.
 
I was just thinking that I have a pin and button similar to the ones in the photo. The depth of each are:
Pin(the long one)= 10.8 mm
Button = 11.7mm
As there is really no weight to have to support, the strap button would be a direct replacement. Unscrew the existing and screw in the bone one. You can get them in a dark brown buffalo horn which would match the sunburst of your Ukulele. The ones I've shown are from Bob Colosi in Georgia. http://www.guitarsaddles.com/products.asp
What depth is the metal one that you have?

Hollis that is some great info and product on that website. The black metals buttoms measure out at 8mm the felt washer at 3mm so together that is 11mm
 
Hollis that is some great info and product on that website. The black metals buttoms measure out at 8mm the felt washer at 3mm so together that is 11mm

So no real difference then. Bob Colosi does make very nice products. Every time I bought a guitar I would change out the bridge pins for ones of his. A lot of my Ukes have his strap buttons. So much nicer than the metal or those plastic ones. A good instrument deserves quality accessories.

PS. Why are the Collings cases so tight? There's a difference between firmly held in place and hard up against fully compressed padding like I see at the upper bout in the photo here.
 
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So no real difference then. Bob Colosi does make very nice products. Every time I bought a guitar I would change out the bridge pins for ones of his. A lot of my Ukes have his strap buttons. So much nicer than the metal or those plastic ones. A good instrument deserves quality accessories.

PS. Why are the Collings cases so tight? There's a difference between firmly held in place and hard up against fully compressed padding like I see at the upper bout in the photo here.

The uke fits perfectly into the case without a button on the end. But I agree with you that there was no need for them to make the case that small and tight. A little bigger with more padding would have avoided all these issues.

They are just not as smart as us Hollis :confused: :biglaugh:
 
Thanks for all of the help! Several things to consider. -Ray
 
I have a UT-1K and it's a very tight fit in the case. I talked to Collings and their recommendation is to get a different case if I want to add a button to the lower bout. What I did instead was to get a Uke Leash. I was concerned about wear on the headstock finish so I got the soft leather headstock strap, but it turns out I can close down the loop on the headstock strap so that it just fits over one of the Peghed tuner. Works fine and I don't anticipate any problems, but if there is one, it would be less expensive to replace a tuner than to fix wear on the headstock finish.

Probably not as good as a regular strap, but the additional support is helping alleviate a problem I've posted about where the fleshy part of my first finger is hitting the A string.

Uke Leash-1.jpg
 
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I was just playing around with a uke leash, and using position # 3 on uke leash's website, I find it very comfortable, and provides good support. Options 1 and 2 didn't feel comfortable for me, (stress on my neck and arm), but 3 feels good. I didn't actually use a belt, but just clipped the loop to my clothes. That gives me more options for moving it around, if needed for comfort. There is a 4th option mentioned on their website that I didn't try, but I'm keeping it in mind, just in case. I think I'm good with option # 3, though.
 
Thanks raduray and Joyful Uke for the comments on Uke Leash. I find position #3 on the belt loop the most comfortable too. I don't always have pants with loops, so I end up with position #2 most of the time. If you position the buckle on the back of your shoulder as shown on the manual, it should stay clear of your neck. I hate having things pull on my neck. I hadn't seen the solution raduray shared before, so I will add that idea to my tips and tricks as an option to others.

–Lori
 
I don't always have pants with loops, so I end up with position #2 most of the time.

I didn't have loops (or a belt) so I just grabbed a clip, (snack bag type of clip, but a bit sturdier than most of those), and clipped it to my clothes. I think I'll continue to use the clip, since that gives me more options on where to attach it, and it won't depend on what I'm wearing. I am playing while sitting down, which makes the clip a safer option than if I was standing, most likely, but with a sturdy clip, I would think it could work while standing, too.
 
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