Would you pay to have an inexpensive uke set up?

I just can't make up my mind. The cost of a setup where I am is nearly the same as the price of the beginner's uke that I learned on. After receiving an Ohana SK-38, I handed over the beginner's uke to my 15-month-old twins for them to bang on. One evening I pried it out of their hands, played it a bit, and was startled to realize it wasn't a bad uke at all! And I thought maybe I should try to make the best of it. But after inquiring about the price of a uke setup at a local music shop, I found it would cost as much as the uke itself.

Do you guys think it's worth it? Or forgo the setup and just slap a new set of strings on it?

Forget the setup , just put strings on it.

It's honestly not too hard to do a basic setup yourself. Lowering the saddle, getting rid of sharp fret edges and lowering action at the nut are all pretty simple things to do with some pretty cheap tools. The saddle needs sandpaper, the fret edges a small file and I lower nut slots using welding torch tip cleaners (they don't last long but are only about £3 so it doesn't matter). Have a go yourself! There's tons of help on youtube and Bazmaz has a good page too:

http://www.gotaukulele.com/2015/10/get-to-know-your-ukulele-its-designed.html

Dude,
It's your first!!! Def get it setup. I still have my 1st guitar from 45 years ago and I have spent several times it's original price on setups and adjustments. You never get over your first!!

sopher said:

Dude,
It's your first!!! [...] You never get over your first!!

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Who says you don't? I was only too glad to get rid of my first ukulele! It served its purpose but but no amount of set up would have made it right. There were just too many issues.

That said, the OP's Uke is a basically decent instrument from a reputable maker and is definitely worth having a set up done. As long as you're careful adjusting the nut and saddle are doable as a DIY job as long as you're careful.

I used ukuleles like that to practice doing my own setups.

On most ok quality cheap ukes, you can get away with just sanding the saddle down a bit.

Filing the nut is a bit more complicated, but not rocket science either.
However, I have rarely needed to touch the nut on most of my setup projects.

ii

Ukettante said:

I just can't make up my mind. The cost of a setup where I am is nearly the same as the price of the beginner's uke that I learned on. After receiving an Ohana SK-38, I handed over the beginner's uke to my 15-month-old twins for them to bang on. One evening I pried it out of their hands, played it a bit, and was startled to realize it wasn't a bad uke at all! And I thought maybe I should try to make the best of it. But after inquiring about the price of a uke setup at a local music shop, I found it would cost as much as the uke itself.

Do you guys think it's worth it? Or forgo the setup and just slap a new set of strings on it?

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Doing a "set-up" depends in how much work one feels like doing and how bad the instrument is.

1. For most ukes it seems that folk are first interested in lowering the action at the nut end so the fretting at the nut end is easier on the fingertips. Filing nut slots is not hard, provided the person is willing to invest $5 for a set of welding rod cleaners (all hardware stores have these - see pic) which can be used as round files. Just view any video on how to do this and one can be an instant expert. For most ukes that's all that's needed.

2. Lowering the action at the saddle end is not often needed. If it is, some fine grain sandpaper is all that's needed. Again, watch the videos. I don't recommend this step unless the action is way too high at the high end if the fretboard and one plays those positions a lot. Intonation can be affected, and if done too close, so can buzzing on some frets.

3. Filing down high frets requires having the proper files and level/straightedge. Unless there are definite burrs or a fret that is way too high, I never touch the frets.

SteveZ said:

ii

Doing a "set-up" depends in how much work one feels like doing and how bad the instrument is.

1. For most ukes it seems that folk are first interested in lowering the action at the nut end so the fretting at the nut end is easier on the fingertips. Filing nut slots is not hard, provided the person is willing to invest $5 for a set of welding rod cleaners (all hardware stores have these - see pic) which can be used as round files. Just view any video on how to do this and one can be an instant expert. For most ukes that's all that's needed.

2. Lowering the action at the saddle end is not often needed. If it is, some fine grain sandpaper is all that's needed. Again, watch the videos. I don't recommend this step unless the action is way too high at the high end if the fretboard and one plays those positions a lot. Intonation can be affected, and if done too close, so can buzzing on some frets.

3. Filing down high frets requires having the proper files and level/straightedge. Unless there are definite burrs or a fret that is way too high, I never touch the frets.

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I agree with SteveZ. In My opinion " setups" are smoke and mirrors for a retailer checking a uke for obvious defects. The majority of ukes dont need it. Some very low end ukes could benefit from adjusting the action but may not necessarily need it , and you can do it yourself it is very easy. I know alot of people will disagree , but I think most will agree.

Ukettante said:

. One evening I pried it out of their hands, played it a bit, and was startled to realize it wasn't a bad uke at all

Do you guys think it's worth it? Or forgo the setup and just slap a new set of strings on it?

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I wouldn't spend money on it. Why don't you want to play the Ohana?

Doesn't setup include intonation checking that could involve moving the bridge? That's not for beginners.

PeteyHoudini said:

Doesn't setup include intonation checking that could involve moving the bridge? That's not for beginners.

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I don't think any "setups" include moving the bridge. Moving the bridge (unless it is movable) is a big deal . A cheap uke may need the bridge moved but if you paid someone to do it ,it would be expensive , probably much more that the uke is worth. An expensive uke on the other hand should not need a setup , it should not need anything. IMHO.

If you plan to play it, I would choose to have it set up. Feel is very important for me.

As setup is typically $60 (here in LA, anyway), I certainly would not pay to have an inexpensive uke set up. However, if buying an inexpensive uke new, I would buy it from HMS who sets up all their ukes.

Here's a video that shows how to adjust the action at the nut by removing it and sanding the bottom. I did it on my first uke (now gone to a new home). Yes, filing the individual string slot is the "proper" way but this works fine, is easy, and doesn't require special tools.

https://reyalpeleluku.wordpress.com...video-how-i-adjust-the-action-on-a-cheap-uke/

Do a search here for setup ,lowering action ,etc. Go to Frets.com . You have an inexpensive uke , perfect fodder for learning to do it yourself.
I'd just put on new strings. Inexpensive ukes sound better with Aquila strings.
It may not need anything , all ukes do not need setups , you'd be wasting money.

What needs to be done to a uke, depends on the uke.
The one you bought, may not need a setup.
Manufacturers try to send ukes out the door, ready to play.
Some are more successful in doing that than others.

My local music store doesn't do setups. They unbox and rack.
When I'm in there I like to try them cuz it's free.
The vast majority of them are very playable without further monkeying, and although I'm sure they have to be out there, I have yet to hit one that buzzes.

Now.. changing the action.. I think is different from setup.
Action is a preference, so that's more individual tuning thing to me, because everyone is different.
Someone that mostly strums is not going to want the same action as someone that is doing alot of tapping.

And compensating a saddle for intonation.... I don't even think HMS does that.

I agree with a lot that has been said. But first things first. I'd probably put on new strings and then get a clip on tuner. It will take some time for the strings to settle, but you can check the intonation by playing an open note and getting it in tune and then playing the 12th. That is the basic test for intonation. If the note at the 12th is off, you may need to compensate the saddle, but not quite yet. You can also do this at the 5th fret or 7th fret to see how bad it is closer to the nut. If it is good to the 7th fret and you are not playing further up the neck, it may not be a big deal.

You need to repeat the same but play the first fret. That is a basic test for the height of the strings at the nut. If the note is sharp then the strings at the nut are too high and should be lowered. Keep in mind that with new strings you shouldn't tweak anything until they have finished stretching.

Another simple test is to play up the neck and see if you get any buzzing of the strings at different frets. If you do, it could be a high fret.

Now you can make a decision if you want to get a setup. If things are relatively close, and it plays and sounds fine, don't bother. If things are way off to where you can hear sharp or flat notes, or buzzing strings, then you have to decide if it is worth it. Keep in mind that different strings may create issues or eliminate issues to some extent. I've swapped out strings and had the intonation go wacko. I've also had bad strings or had to flip them around and that eliminated an intonation problem. It is generally prudent to play the instrument for a while before you crack open the Craftsman toolbox.

I do my own setups and it is pretty easy, but you do have to take your time and figure things out if you need to do anything more than sanding the bottom of the saddle to lower the action.

John

PeteyHoudini said:

Doesn't setup include intonation checking that could involve moving the bridge? That's not for beginners.

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If the intonation is so bad the bridge needs moving you should return the instrument to the owner.
Sanding down or raising the saddle should be enough to adjust the scale. That's something anyone can do.

Ukettante said:

I just can't make up my mind. The cost of a setup where I am is nearly the same as the price of the beginner's uke that I learned on. After receiving an Ohana SK-38, I handed over the beginner's uke to my 15-month-old twins for them to bang on. One evening I pried it out of their hands, played it a bit, and was startled to realize it wasn't a bad uke at all! And I thought maybe I should try to make the best of it. But after inquiring about the price of a uke setup at a local music shop, I found it would cost as much as the uke itself.

Do you guys think it's worth it? Or forgo the setup and just slap a new set of strings on it?

Click to expand...

Why do you think it needs a set up?. Most inexpensive ukes [if they need anything] benefit from having the nut slots lowered. as others have said , not too difficult to do yourself. once in a while the fret may work itself up which will cause buzzing.. just tap it back down. It doesn't make much sense to me to spend more on a "set up" than the uke cost. that's just me.

Kayak Jim said:

Here's a video that shows how to adjust the action at the nut by removing it and sanding the bottom. I did it on my first uke (now gone to a new home). Yes, filing the individual string slot is the "proper" way but this works fine, is easy, and doesn't require special tools.

https://reyalpeleluku.wordpress.com...video-how-i-adjust-the-action-on-a-cheap-uke/

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+1 I adjusted the nut on my first uke this way - it worked a treat

Edit: I actually swapped the stock plastic nut and saddle for bone ones, which I bought off eBay - they were really cheap (direct from China). I sanded down the bottom end on both to ensure a nice low action before installing them on the uke (a Makala soprano). The instrument definitely sounded better afterward and I would recommend this as a budget diy 'tweak'