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ASAT
11-22-2015, 09:18 AM
Hi - just wondering if it is better to post building questions as a seperate post vs asking in my build thread? I have asked for advise in my build thread but it may not get the visibility of a more direct title? One thing I am waiting to hear on is the thickness for the mold on my tenor build - I am using 5/8" Baltic birch and wondering if three layers (1 7/8") is thick enough? The body sides are 2 17/32" at the neck and 2 15/16" at the heel..... Thanks..... Lou

Timbuck
11-22-2015, 09:36 AM
Sorry I can't answer this question..what you have to do is get a sketch pad and draw out to scale what you are trying to do and work out the problem in your head...it's not that difficult, and you could come up with an idea that know one has had before...or just do more research ...I find google images come up with the best results...cruel ain't I ;)

jcalkin
11-22-2015, 10:08 AM
If you added a fourth removable layer the mold would offer more support when you glue in the end blocks. But you can also clamp up the unsupported parts with spring clamps and 3 layers would be enough. At any rate, you want both the top and bottom edges clear of the mold when you glue on the plates, so 3 layers sounds about right. You are working with 3/4" of taper to the back. That's a lot for a uke. Not that you shouldn't do it, it will just look different. You could shorten the tail block by 3/8"-1/2" and still be in the realm of normal. See the post about thin body ukes.

Pete Howlett
11-22-2015, 11:25 AM
Do you want advice or do you want your ideas qualified? Methinks the latter... otherwise you would have done the research and got the answer. FWIW my moulds/forms are 3/8" shallower than the final body depth which has a 13/32" taper. I fit the ribs to the form/mould (notice the switch :) ) and then glue the end blocks outside of the mold (American spelling for our transatlantic cousins)- saw this on MyaMoe's YouTube channel and thought, "That's a good idea..."

ASAT
11-22-2015, 11:32 AM
Timbuck, yeah I've had better responses and I know you "old hats" must get weary of answering the same old questions over and over. I used google and searched "form building" on here but did not see a definitive answer or suggestion to my query other than "about 2/3'rds of the total side width for the mold". The taper kind of threw me - 2/3'rds of the average? The Neck? The Heel?......

Jc - Sorry - I was going from memory when I wrote the dimensions, (bad idea :) ) they are actually 2 17/32 at the neck and 2 15/16 at the heel (edited post) so a bit less than 1/2" taper front to back. So the fourth layer would put me at 2 1/2" and I would have to get some more Baltic Birch to do that - would just using some grabbers to hold the temporary layer be OK? it would only be for forming the sides after bending and gluing in the blocks right?

ASAT
11-22-2015, 11:46 AM
Pete, was typing before I saw your post - I really am seeking advise, maybe a bit of both- I really don't have enough experience to depend on my ideas.... but I am also looking for a "sanity check" for what I am planning to do - hoping you guys will set me straight if I am making a dumb move.... I have watched those videos also and thought the same thing - although I thought I might have a better result if the blocks were supported by the mould :) during glue up. It looked to me like their sides only protrude about 3/8" and I was wondering if their molds are tapered as well. I hope I am not starting off on the wrong foot here and alienating myself from the value of you guy's experience.....

Lou

Pete Howlett
11-22-2015, 12:11 PM
You'll have to wait a bit before I produce my tool making for luthiers DVD tho my neck carving one is freshly available (SSP). I've converted to gluing outside the mold for a number of reasons. My moulds are used in the entire process of making the body. Go on YouTube to see how individual luthiers approach the problem - that is where you find your best answers.

ASAT
11-22-2015, 12:20 PM
You'll have to wait a bit before I produce my tool making for luthiers DVD tho my neck carving one is freshly available

Pete, I have already added your Neck DVD to my Christmas list and showed the wife your website :) Judging from the quality of your instruments I have seen on You Tube any DVD's that you produce will be added to my library.....

Timbuck
11-22-2015, 12:59 PM
Pete, I have already added your Neck DVD to my Christmas list and showed the wife your website :) Judging from the quality of your instruments I have seen on You Tube any DVD's that you produce will be added to my library..... Hi Lou .. Don't get me wrong I'm a nice Guy at heart ;). ..there's no reason why you can't taper the mold to suit your uke's body just leave a few mm' s of uke sticking up so that the clamps don't fowl up...I don't glue and clamp the end blocks in the mold either, I have another set up Jig for that part...but I do use the mold for measuring and sizing the sides before I glue during the bending process....and after the end blocks and linings are fitted then the assembly goes back in the mold for fixing the top and back...there is a video
Somewhere on YouTube showing this method.

ASAT
11-22-2015, 01:54 PM
Hi Lou .. Don't get me wrong I'm a nice Guy at heart ;)
No question about it Timbuck, I figure anyone that is willing to pour their soul into a piece of wood has got to have a good heart as well.... I will keep searching You Tube and also watch that Mya Moe series a few more times as well.... Take Care, Lou

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
11-22-2015, 06:44 PM
I stack 3 layers of 3/4" ply for my molds. The halves are indexed with a dowel and have latches where they meet.

aaronckeim
11-25-2015, 05:27 AM
Not sure what we were doing during the video process, but the current Mya-Moe order of operations is:
1) fit sides to mold, glue neck block outside of mold
2) put it back in mold, re-fit sides and glue tailblock in the mold with an added caul
3) Sand the back radius into the sides, take out of mold, inlay end graft, add kerfing
4) put back in mold, sand top edge and back edge to prep for plate glueing. glue back on.
5) add label, glue top on.