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chuck in ny
01-14-2016, 07:15 AM
it looks like there are plenty of yankee ways to get around this purchase but i am tempted to surrender the cash.
my first builds will be a concert and a tenor. i measured off a pono concert and it looks like they compensated 3/32". i'm always compensating for some lack or other so i'll go with their measurement.
seems to be the ticket for a sure bridge alignment.

sequoia
01-14-2016, 07:02 PM
No need to surrender the cash Chuck. Just get a good ruler graduated 1/32 and measure it out and yes 3/32" is the compensation on a 17" scale. Oh and that is saddle not bridge and try not to think about how far you bridge is gonna dip. Everything will be fine. I'm a Yankee by birth and no need for the stinking saddlematic. Save your money for wood.

chuck in ny
01-15-2016, 12:36 PM
thanks for the advice sequoia. i really did mean bridge alignment, measuring to the saddle while gluing down the bridge. be the deuce if it got skewed. i don't have a good ruler in the entire cabinet shop as we work to the sixteenth and generally go off tape rules with one lone folding stick rule. there is one fine 6" general brand depth gauge around with very fine gradations used to set router depths and such.
now i have to buy a legitimate stainless ruler? haven't to this date and i'm social security age.

edit. nice deal on an 18" mitutoyo rule on ebay.
the nerve. now i have to measure.

oud272
01-15-2016, 04:33 PM
Could try one of these, 18" iGaging Hook Ruler (http://www.rockler.com/igaging-hooked-rulers). Hook onto the end of the fretboard before fitting the nut.

dustartist
01-17-2016, 10:17 PM
Make a template. Put a center line on it and cut it exactly the length (including compensation) that you need from the nut slot to the front of the saddle slot. You can butt one end to the nut in its slot and butt the other end against the front of the saddle. It's actually easier than the Saddlematic, which doesn't help locate the canter line. I made mine out of clear plastic so I can see the center line is in the right place, use spring clamps to hold it there, and align the bridge using the center line and the front edge of the saddle slot as the reference points. The Saddlematic is useful, but mostly for repair work.