Peghead questions

After reading through the thread I started on light weight friction tuners it is obvious that pegheads are the odds on favorites even though they are not friction, but geared. So I'll probably get some.

Somewhere along the line of my band instrment repair carreer I ended up with this violin reamer even though I never did string repair. I used it for french horn mouthpipe work. Is there anyway to tell if it's the correct reamer for pegheads?

It is marked "5" and "5X10" and "Germany"

Also, which model pegheads should I buy? My headstock is 12mm.

Thanks in advance! Here's the pics.

Pegheds use the traditional 30:1 violin peg taper also known as a 2° taper.

They come in different overall lengths and diameters. Check the diameter of your current tuner hole to see what size Peghed will be closest. The Peghed you choose will have to be at least slightly larger than the current hole. Then ream out from the back until screwing in the Peghed reveals about 1 thread showing on the top side of the headstock when fully seated. Note that a set of Pegheds will have two right hand threads and two left hand threaded pegs.

And I'll add that go slow when you are getting close to the correct depth to fit the tuner. It's very easy to overshoot how much they will protrude through the headstock by going just one more turn with the reamer.

I am a distributor for PEGHEDS. Both the maker and I wonder why the top of the shaft is not flush with the top of the instrument. There is no reason to have a thread showing on top except that someone bored the hole too large. There are two different lengths of the shaft. This is from flush with the bottom of the string spool and the base of the grip/button. It is the part which goes through the wood of the headstock/peghead and sticks out the back. One is 19 mm and the other is 27.5 mm in length. With a 12mm thick peghead, there will be 7mm of shaft coming out the back side. The neck on the grip is 3mm, and the grip is 17mm tall on both long and short shaft. On that 12mm thick peghead, there will be 15.5 mm of shaft out the back side. For thicker than 15mm pegheads/headstocks, the short one does not allow enough exposure on the back side to insert the tuner. They also come in different diameters for obvious reasons. There is also a new model coming out very soon which has a chrome shaft and an ivoroid grip. They are short in length and are 8 - 9 -10mm in diameter. { I have an Oscar Schmidt OU250 Bell ukulele that had such a large geared tuner, that even the 10mm dropped through the hole. I plugged them and will rebore for an 8mm. } I HATE corresponding on this site because if you start and get interrupted, and you go back, it has timed out and all is lost. If you want to communicate with me.... thecraftedcow@comcast.net or my cell at 503-730-2484 . I check U/U early in the morning and late at night only.

Everyone recommends first practicing on a separate piece of wood of the same thickness, and pretty much the same hardness so you get some experience before the real thing. The shorter ones are available through The Flea/Fluke manufacturer, or through me. I say this humbly, not proud and arrogantly... I am blessed to work with Mr Herin in developing the shorter PEGHEDS, and he has given me exclusive rights to merchandise them. If you read Tim Szerlong's www.ukeeku.com site, you can read his evaluation. There will be some change in some models ( Long Shaft) we are going to make the next batch cosmetically different, or internally the same as the rest of the current line. Yes.... the price will be reduced. ( I intend to keep a dozen sets for myself).

Had to look,... The shafts on my IZ are flush with the top.
Cheers,
R

A possible explanation for one thread higher is so when the strings spool downward, the part of the shaft protruding up acts as a bottom stop and then it will start to spool back up the string post rather than rub the wood of the peghead.. Which brings up the controversy of how many wraps does one really need regardless of what kind of tuning system used.