<~/UkeDude\~>
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Hey guys, I own and play a Tenor Kamaka ukulele and I don't know if it's just me but does anyone elses kamaka tone tend to get sharper the higher you play on the fret board?
Kamaka accuracy?
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generem
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My HF3 was a bit sharp when strung with J71s but its pretty dead on with Worth Browns. Well atleast thats what my clip on tuners says 
experimentjon
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Hmm, I don't own a Kamaka HF3...so I would need to purchase one to test it for myself...UAS is strong.
But I have played Aldrine's Kamaka for...well...quite a few hours. Both acoustically and amplified on a PA system and on my own Vox DA5. And I never noticed that problem on his, which I think was strung with some variation of the J71 set. Then again, maybe I just ignored it because the instrument was so magical.
But I have played Aldrine's Kamaka for...well...quite a few hours. Both acoustically and amplified on a PA system and on my own Vox DA5. And I never noticed that problem on his, which I think was strung with some variation of the J71 set. Then again, maybe I just ignored it because the instrument was so magical.
deach
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Hmm, I don't own a Kamaka HF3...so I would need to purchase one to test it for myself...UAS is strong.
But I have played Aldrine's Kamaka for...well...quite a few hours. Both acoustically and amplified on a PA system and on my own Vox DA5. And I never noticed that problem on his, which I think was strung with some variation of the J71 set. Then again, maybe I just ignored it because the instrument was so magical.
Didn't he do a lot of modifications to his Kamaka though?
Renaissance-Man
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My Kamaka intonation was perfect. I will say that the action was a little high at both the nut and bridge, when it was delivered. It was quite acceptable, just a little high for my tastes. Once setup, it rang true.
experimentjon
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Just nut and saddle stuff, and a $200 pickup job. But nothing too major...
And according to him, a good bit of the sound quality that I heard when I played it through a PA was due to his fancy-shmancy $200 cable. Meh, It still sounded fine when I ran it through my $10 cable to my 5 watt amp with like equalization knob.
deach
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SuperSecretJohn
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I think Aldrine's Kamaka is a little sharp. The bridge has moved from leaving it in the car too many times.
thejumpingflea
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Move the bridge or move the nut.
cpatch
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There's a t-shirt: "The UAS is strong with this one."
Moore Bettah Ukuleles
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This could be a pretty straight forward fix. If the intonation is sharp then the scale length has to be increased. It will likely mean a new saddle or modification of the one you have now. The saddle is not flat but rather it has a "crown", a high point that the string comes in contact with. What needs to be done is to move the high point of the saddle back away from the nut by filing or sanding a new angle on it. The only danger is filing a new high point on the saddle is that you may inadvertently lower the action in which case you start over with a new saddle.
You may want to try simply flipping the saddle around and checking the intonation. High action and different string tensions will also affect intonation.
You may want to try simply flipping the saddle around and checking the intonation. High action and different string tensions will also affect intonation.
Aldrine Guerrero
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yep. true.
the bridge glue is slowly coming off and causing the bridge to slightly tilt towards the neck. The saddle is already pretty far back and I was using normal tension strings so if anything they should've played flat. But I kinda don't wanna take it back to Kamaka to get fixed though... they already kind of hate me thee hahaha. Last time I was there, I kept asking them to fix the saddle cause it kept goin off tune. Needless to say they were tired of a certain filipino kid after he kept coming back like 5 times to the shop with the same problem lol
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UkuLeLesReggAe
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^ i heard about u talknig about your new ukulele coming in??? what uke waz it?
Hankthetank
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Is this problem due to normal wear and tear? And over what kind of timeframe did you have to come back 5 times to get the problem fixed? I am just wondering what it says for the manufacturer if you had to take it back 5 times with the same problem. I know Kamakas have a good reputation (for sound and quality) and have a long and storied ukulele history/tradition, but I was just curious as a Kamaka tenor is on my list of possibilities for my next uke.
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buddhuu
Super Moderator (Retired)
If I read right what SuperSecretBETA and Aldrine said, then it's not really the maker's fault.
Some of the glues used in luthiery soften when they get hot. If you leave a uke/guitar/mandolin in a hot place, like a car in the summer, then the glue can soften. As bridges on flat top acoustic instruments are usually just glued into place that means that the string tension can pull the bridge out of position.
I've seen it happen in two ways -
First way, the back of the bridge begins to lift up as the glue gives. This can mean that the saddle is tipped towards the nut and the intonation goes sharp. Action also often raises a bit.
Second and rarer, the bridge gradually slides towards the headstock but stays flat. Again, intonation goes sharp.
I've been in the room when the glue holding the bridge of a steel-strung guitar finally gave up. Makes an interesting noise as that bridge pings off.
If that's what happened, that Aldrine's uke got really hot several times, well... they're not designed for that!
Hide glue, used in high quality luthiery, is actually prepared in heated pots to keep it soft. If a builder/repairer wants to do a repair or adjustment which means part of an instrument has to be loosened or removed, they sometimes do it by applying heat to soften the glue.
Moral: Keep yr ukes away from hot cars and radiators!
Some of the glues used in luthiery soften when they get hot. If you leave a uke/guitar/mandolin in a hot place, like a car in the summer, then the glue can soften. As bridges on flat top acoustic instruments are usually just glued into place that means that the string tension can pull the bridge out of position.
I've seen it happen in two ways -
First way, the back of the bridge begins to lift up as the glue gives. This can mean that the saddle is tipped towards the nut and the intonation goes sharp. Action also often raises a bit.
Second and rarer, the bridge gradually slides towards the headstock but stays flat. Again, intonation goes sharp.
I've been in the room when the glue holding the bridge of a steel-strung guitar finally gave up. Makes an interesting noise as that bridge pings off.
If that's what happened, that Aldrine's uke got really hot several times, well... they're not designed for that!
Hide glue, used in high quality luthiery, is actually prepared in heated pots to keep it soft. If a builder/repairer wants to do a repair or adjustment which means part of an instrument has to be loosened or removed, they sometimes do it by applying heat to soften the glue.
Moral: Keep yr ukes away from hot cars and radiators!
Hankthetank
Well-known member
If I read right what SuperSecretBETA and Aldrine said, then it's not really the maker's fault.
Some of the glues used in luthiery soften when they get hot. If you leave a uke/guitar/mandolin in a hot place, like a car in the summer, then the glue can soften. As bridges on flat top acoustic instruments are usually just glued into place that means that the string tension can pull the bridge out of position.
I've seen it happen in two ways -
First way, the back of the bridge begins to lift up as the glue gives. This can mean that the saddle is tipped towards the nut and the intonation goes sharp. Action also often raises a bit.
Second and rarer, the bridge gradually slides towards the headstock but stays flat. Again, intonation goes sharp.
I've been in the room when the glue holding the bridge of a steel-strung guitar finally gave up. Makes an interesting noise as that bridge pings off.
If that's what happened, that Aldrine's uke got really hot several times, well... they're not designed for that!
Hide glue, used in high quality luthiery, is actually prepared in heated pots to keep it soft. If a builder/repairer wants to do a repair or adjustment which means part of an instrument has to be loosened or removed, they sometimes do it by applying heat to soften the glue.
Moral: Keep yr ukes away from hot cars and radiators!
Ahhh, thanks for the explanation. That all makes sense. You learn something new everyday. :shaka:
Aldrine Guerrero
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If I read right what SuperSecretBETA and Aldrine said, then it's not really the maker's fault.
Some of the glues used in luthiery soften when they get hot. If you leave a uke/guitar/mandolin in a hot place, like a car in the summer, then the glue can soften. As bridges on flat top acoustic instruments are usually just glued into place that means that the string tension can pull the bridge out of position.
I've seen it happen in two ways -
First way, the back of the bridge begins to lift up as the glue gives. This can mean that the saddle is tipped towards the nut and the intonation goes sharp. Action also often raises a bit.
Second and rarer, the bridge gradually slides towards the headstock but stays flat. Again, intonation goes sharp.
I've been in the room when the glue holding the bridge of a steel-strung guitar finally gave up. Makes an interesting noise as that bridge pings off.
If that's what happened, that Aldrine's uke got really hot several times, well... they're not designed for that!
Hide glue, used in high quality luthiery, is actually prepared in heated pots to keep it soft. If a builder/repairer wants to do a repair or adjustment which means part of an instrument has to be loosened or removed, they sometimes do it by applying heat to soften the glue.
Moral: Keep yr ukes away from hot cars and radiators!
The second and rare scenario.
But that problem was only recently. The intonation problem could still be fixed before.
The timeframe between the 5 times I brought it in the shop was within 2 weeks.
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