Cutting sides to length

Very similar to the way I do it ... But I like you're method using the mold...I find I don't need to sand or plane the joint afterwards...and a finer toothed blade eg: 10 TPI will give better results.
 
Last edited:
I don't understand what the second photo is showing.....the side stuck into the slot.
Otherwise, I do about the same thing with a handsaw. I also score the sides a few times with a sharp knife first to prevent those fuzzy edges
 
I clamp my sides in a male / female 1/2 mould and use a pencil to mark the ends. Cut on the bandsaw close and use a shooting board to plain the end grain to the line. Works perfectly every time, and with timbers that have homogenous type of grain like Mahogany you can get an almost invisible join.
 
Allen said:
I clamp my sides in a male / female 1/2 mould and use a pencil to mark the ends. Cut on the bandsaw close and use a shooting board to plain the end grain to the line.....
Click to expand...

Generally that's how I do this operation as well for most end grain operations, big or small. I find that scribing the line with a perfect light, cross-grained cut works quite well at the shooting board. It's easy to get better than .005" accuracy since the scribe/cut shows you exactly where to stop planing. And zero tear out.
 
Thanks all

Thinking about it, I really like this. Since you are cutting both sides at once and they are flat on the table, it does not matter if the blade is exactly square to the table. I don't usually use an end graft and this will make it easier to get a good joint

ksquine - sorry for any confusion but I though the text would make it clear - that is a scrap piece that fit the kerf and it just so happens that it is a piece of Osage Orange and it looks like a side. It's just a random shim

Ed
 
pointpergame said:
Generally that's how I do this operation as well for most end grain operations, big or small. I find that scribing the line with a perfect light, cross-grained cut works quite well at the shooting board. It's easy to get better than .005" accuracy since the scribe/cut shows you exactly where to stop planing. And zero tear out.
Click to expand...

I'm struggling with tear out or 'chipping' of the end grain when using a shooting board. Trying to find out the reason/solution.
 
The fence on your shooting board needs support the piece. So that the plane blade would have cut the fence when it was first set up. The the blade must be very sharp. Using a low angle plane is advantageous for most timbers. And light cuts. You'll never get good results taking a heavy cut no matter how sharp the blade and good your set up is.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Siv
Cutting the back off & thinning the sides to make a thinline uke
Replies
4
Views
468
printer2
P
C
cutting sides to shape
Replies
5
Views
777
cathouse willy
C
M
Cutting saddle slot on Bridge
Replies
4
Views
372
Jerryc41
Jerryc41
EricaVAngel
Issue with mono jack climbing out and cutting off
Replies
4
Views
376
Kenn2018
Kenn2018
T
Strings cutting into bridge
Replies
8
Views
449
mikelz777
mikelz777
Top Bottom