Royal-Lac I love this stuff.

Michael Smith

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I have been experimenting with Royal-Lac. It's a shellac based product that solves many of the short comings of standard french polish. It is much more durable and impervious to things like alcohol and other chemicals. A beautiful high gloss finish can be achieved without buffing. Can also be buffed if desired. It's great not to have to put on spray equipment and to work with a product that is far less toxic. Robbie Obien has a youtube video on application. It isn't as easy to drop fill as nitro but I don't see why you couldn't do any drop filling with lacquer. FINISHESRoyalLacPintandQuart650.jpg
 
Always interested in new finishes. What makes it different from standard shellac? How does it solve French polishing issues?
 
Another great product I can't find in the UK...ill see if I can get the recipe and make some.
 
In the UK you could try Finneys in Chesterfield who make their own modified shellac polish called Finpol. They do a few versions, a 'Special Polish' and an extra hard polish. They work fine. They have a website.
 
In the UK you could try Finneys in Chesterfield who make their own modified shellac polish called Finpol. They do a few versions, a 'Special Polish' and an extra hard polish. They work fine. They have a website.

That looks very interesting, if I new about that prior to using cellulose sealer and lacquer and would have given that a go.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWViNoYKp88
 
Thanks for the tip. Have to check it out, especially after watching this demo from Royal Lac: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXRdJ6psTLg

Looks like Tru Oil gunstock finish now obsolete as instrument finish? Did a little research (similar question on Acoustic Guitar Forum) and seems like Royal Lac has a hardener in it that makes it more resistant to alcohol, sweat, etc. than comparable products.
 
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I used the method Robbie OBrien demonstrates here

 
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In the UK you could try Finneys in Chesterfield who make their own modified shellac polish called Finpol. They do a few versions, a 'Special Polish' and an extra hard polish. They work fine. They have a website.

I really like the look of this. Just watched the Youtube clip regarding its application. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWViNoYKp88) Thanks Steve-in-Kent!

I take it you recommend this as a good option then? Think ill give it a try.

Does it prevent the need to pore fill?
Thanks
 
It's just a finish. I can't see how it would negate the need for pore filling - assuming you think that there is a need to pore fill in the first place.
Modified shellacs have been around for a long time. I've no idea what's in the Royal Lac but so called 'table top' shellacs usually have something like Melamine added. There does tend to be a bit of a fad about relatively 'new' products. It wasn't that long ago that everyone seemed to be after the U beaut hard shellac. Now I hardly ever hear it mentioned.
Shellac does resist alcohol fairly well. It just doesn't resist very strong alcohol. Beer, strong table Wine doesn't touch it. Even your average strength whisky only does superficial damage., the type of damage that can easily be repaired.
 
You still need to pore fill. Because it is a thinner finish than nitro your pore filling and prep need to be as good or better than lacquer.
 
Shellac does resist alcohol fairly well. It just doesn't resist very strong alcohol. Beer, strong table Wine doesn't touch it. Even your average strength whisky only does superficial damage., the type of damage that can easily be repaired.

I love shellac, but alcohol is like kryptonite to a shellac Superman. Which makes sense since shellac is in an alcohol carrier... Not sure what whiskey you drink Michael, but mine strips shellac like plutonium rips the skin off your face. Take home lesson: Drink beer when playing ukuleles with a shellac finish.... Didn't know they added melamine to shellac to stiffen it up. Makes sense. Basically plasticizing the polymer.
 
Vijay, the owner of Royal Lac and Seal Lac is really a cool guy and provides great support on the product. If you have questions about the product and different methods of applying just call him. He's very generous with his time.
As far as pore fill, have just used the Seal Lac product and it works but took quite a few coats and have used Aqua Coat which worked great.
 
I love shellac, but alcohol is like kryptonite to a shellac Superman. Which makes sense since shellac is in an alcohol carrier... Not sure what whiskey you drink Michael, but mine strips shellac like plutonium rips the skin off your face. Take home lesson: Drink beer when playing ukuleles with a shellac finish.... Didn't know they added melamine to shellac to stiffen it up. Makes sense. Basically plasticizing the polymer.

Try the test. I have. I pooled a strong beer (8%) on to a shellac surface. Left it sit there for 10 minutes, which is far longer than what would happen in a real life everyday situation. Nothing happened, the surface was as good as before the test. Then I tried a strong table wine. 10 minutes later, nothing. Only a whisky marred the surface but that was very superficial damage. Allow to dry/harden and less than 5 minutes with a polishing fad and it's back to it's original state.
There's a very good reason why people seek out the very strongest alcohol for dissolving shellac. Ever stripped a shellac finish with the very strongest alcohol? It takes a lot more work than most folk think.
As for water (the other thing that supposedly damages shellac), again nothing. I've pooled water on a shellac surface for days. Nothing. It has to be hot water for it to show signs of damage. Most of what you hear regarding shellac and it's suppose vulnerability to alcohol and water is from furniture (i.e table) makers. Unless you get in a bar room fight it's highly unlikely you'll be pouring a strong alcohol or hot water over your instrument.
Shellac is vulnerable to alkaline solutions though (a few varnishes are, including Tru Oil). It's OK with mild acids but even mild alkaline solutions will mar the surface. This is part of the theory as to why some peoples sweat damages shellac. Most folk have sweat that is slightly acidic as far as I'm aware. The slight acidity is part of the skins defence mechanism, known as the acid mantle layer. Quite why some people seem to strip shellac has to be down to some sort of alkalinity. Perhaps the nature of their sweat is slightly different to the norm. Washing powder is also alkaline, so rinsing clothes is a must. Not really a problem with modern washing machines. I happen to be one of the lucky one's. I don't seem to have much affect on shellac at all, I can play the instrument for years and very little wear. Yet I've had an instrument returned after just 3 months - down to bare wood.
 
I really like the look of this. Just watched the Youtube clip regarding its application. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWViNoYKp88) Thanks Steve-in-Kent!

I take it you recommend this as a good option then? Think ill give it a try.

Does it prevent the need to pore fill?
Thanks

I have just had a go at making a beaten up Lanikai 8 string look a bit better.

Ended up using a cellulose sealer and lacquer, so have not tried the Special Polish, but would have if I had heard of it earlier.

(My thread is http://forum.ukuleleunderground.com/showthread.php?119821-Trying-to-bring-new-life-to-a-well-used-abused-ukulele )
 
Here you go Kev - not the definitive answer you probably wanted to hear though! I think I might try the "Extra Hard".

Hi

Either will do. Each product has a different formula that some musical instrument makers prefer to the other but this is simply personal preference.I've enclosed some links for you. Rosewood as a timber can be problematic due to it's dense nature but as long as it is not too resinous shouldn't cause too many problems.

https://www.finneyswoodfinishes.co.uk/FINPOL_Extra_Hard_Polish

https://www.finneyswoodfinishes.co.uk/FINPOL_Special_Polish

Please get back in touch if not sure.

Mark Finney
 
Here you go Kev - not the definitive answer you probably wanted to hear though! I think I might try the "Extra Hard".

Hi

Either will do. Each product has a different formula that some musical instrument makers prefer to the other but this is simply personal preference.I've enclosed some links for you. Rosewood as a timber can be problematic due to it's dense nature but as long as it is not too resinous shouldn't cause too many problems.

https://www.finneyswoodfinishes.co.uk/FINPOL_Extra_Hard_Polish

https://www.finneyswoodfinishes.co.uk/FINPOL_Special_Polish

Please get back in touch if not sure.

Mark Finney

That's great (I think) as you say, not a definititive answer!!!
In fact not a answer at all !
Can't say we're any closer to knowing which to chose!
I'll get a coin ��
 
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