...Booli's idea of the 2225 is a good one too.
Booli's idea of the 2225 finishes the D tone on 1st string. It sounds best in some songs to me.
Thanks for the nod guys
I've gotten accustomed to having the root note as the higher pitch on that chord, and being that you now have an easy movable chord shape, which ALSO only requires 2 fingers to make, AND requires less energy from your hand to press and hold that shape.
Then, it's easy to move/slide UP to an E, F or G chord. Once you are up the neck now at around the 5th fret or so with a chimey G chord, you can now take other movable chord shapes based upon the F and A first position chords, such as like 7565 (barred F-shape) and 7655 (barred A-shape), but once you get up that far, fingering gets tight for me on a tenor and sometimes it sounds too chimey for me on a re-entrant strung uke, and may actually sound better on a linear tuned uke. I will have to test it on a linear tuned instrument and see.
One of my goals with both fretting as well as strumming and finger-picking is 'conservation of energy' and 'reducing hand/arm movement' to a minimum, such that when I need more POWER from my fingers it's there.
This might not effect everyone, but as I'm getting closer to 50yrs old, it seems that my grip strength, and manual dexterity sometimes seems to run out of steam much sooner, and this conservation/reduction method allows me to play LONGER, louder and more consistently.
Sometimes I also have pain which is aggravated by playing with a sloppy method, and I should point out that the above method is done so with a VERY relaxed hand, and not a hard CLAW-like grip that I see in so many videos. (Doctor says it's the start of arthritis and wants me on 'juice' from the pharmacy, but I refuse that junk.)
If you pretend that the instrument is fragile and could implode from rough handling, and approach with a very delicate touch, you are off to a good start.
For your fingers, instead of a HAMMER, think of a FEATHER.