Not making it easy for myself

Timbuck

Timbuck

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I put a concert body together today..I must have got something wrong some where when putting the back on cos the seam at the lower bout didnt close up as tight as it should have and there was 1/2 mm gap :(
So I decided that the bindings will get that (I hadnt planned on bindings on this one but what the heck)..so I sorted out some black linings but they were about 1mm too wide ...I should have sanded them down, but I was in a lazy mood and i thought to myself "I'll scrape them down on the uke afterwards" ..I finally got them flush with sides but bit took nearly an hour to scrape and sand them..It turned out ok in the end, But! with a bit of care and attention to what I was doing I could have saved myself a lot of work and frustration :wallbash:
Tomorrow I'll give myself a good talking to, and try and do better.:eek:
 
I'll buy you a virtual beer :cheers:.

Note to self: "make sure bindings dont extend too far off the uke".
 
Moore Bettah Ukuleles said:
Use a spindle sander and belt sander for that Ken. Of course power sanding can end up in disaster real quick too but if you've got the knack for it, it can go easily and quickly as well.
Click to expand...
That's what I did in the end Chuck, on the spindle sander but was a bit nervous co's I didn't want to end up with a spindle size groove in the side...I stopped sanding short just leaving a few thou to scrape down...still gave me a lot frustration tho.
 
I use a flush cutter in my router... no grinding or sanding required :) Works with celluloid binding as well and since the good chaps at Hitachi did a free repair for me on my 22 year old T6 trimmer we are good to go :)
 
I had a flush cutter grab an ABS binding on me once and throw the uke out of my hands and into the wall. I think I'll stick to the sanding and scraping.
 
Pete Howlett said:
I use a flush cutter in my router... no grinding or sanding required :) Works with celluloid binding as well and since the good chaps at Hitachi did a free repair for me on my 22 year old T6 trimmer we are good to go :)
Click to expand...

I do it this way too but I do it in my binding channel routing fixture clamped to the bench :)
 
Pete Howlett said:
I use a flush cutter in my router... no grinding or sanding required :) Works with celluloid binding as well and since the good chaps at Hitachi did a free repair for me on my 22 year old T6 trimmer we are good to go :)
Click to expand...
The first time I tried that method was on rosewood bindings ..I must have hit the end grain or the glue job wasn't 100% co's it ended up in disaster ..I'm more carefull now.
 
It'a comforting to hear you seasoned pro's have the same problems I do! I can remember scraping for ever on a too thick binding.

Bob
 
if you are milling off 0.2mm you don't get exploding binding. It really is a question of how good the joinery is in any of this stuff. Do it properly and you don't get accidents. Also, using a router as a flushing tool you must follow the grain direction which means careful selection of grain orientation the first place. This is more than just bending and sticking wood willy nilly....
 
I just use a sharp thumb plane (don't get too close or you might take a slice of side!) to get really close, then use a sharp cabinet scraper to take it down flush. I do use a spindle sander only on the waist where a plane can't get. I am super careful and just get it close. Discretion is the the better part of valor here. Finish with the scraper. Really doesn't take that long. With sharp tools this is part of building that I really enjoy.
 
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