Observations after 1 month of playing ukulele

djc227

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I'm coming up on a month of playing the ukulele. I had played guitar and mandolin for about 20 years prior, but the ukulele was new to me. I really love this instrument and thought I'd share some observations from a newcomer:

1) You'll play a ukulele more than a guitar or mandolin. The guitar is too big, and it's tough to play quietly. I get at least an hour of practice in every night while watching TV with the wife and small kids. I even bought my 5 year old daughter a Kala KA-15S Soprano so she thinks she is playing along (she actually can play C, Am, and F already). This keeps her and the 2 year old from grabbing the strings and halting all playing! The mandolin is essentially the same size, but they're just not as versatile, and I'm always nervous having them out around the kids since they are so expensive. I leave my Kala out on the table and pick it up and play it all the time.

2) You can get a pretty damn good instrument for $100-150. This is not the case with guitar or mandolin. The first uke I bought for myself was a Kala KA-TG. I got lucky and it was actually set up well when I received it, but my brother wasn't as lucky. That said it will only take 10 minutes and a piece of sandpaper to get his saddle where it needs to be and then his will be fine too. Order from a place with setup and you don't have to worry about it. That Kala is a supreme instrument for what it costs! If you are a beginner and wondering what to start out with, go with the Kala KA line. When/if you get better move up to solid wood. If you never do, you're not out very much money. If all you're ever going to do is strum just buy one of these and call it good. The string spacing is a little narrow at the saddle, but again is you're only going to strum it doesn't matter.

3) Strings make a HUGE difference on ukuleles! The second ukulele I bought was a Pono RTC(S) PC. It looks awesome, but when I played it the first time I almost sold it immediately. With the strings that came on it (Ko'olau golds), it didn't sound ANY better than the Kala. I thought I'd give it a chance and replaced the strings with a new Ko'olau Mahana Low G set with wound 3rd and 4th and....BOOM! Different instrument. I LOVE that Pono now. It's loud, it resonates, and just overall sounds awesome.

4) Solid wood is better if/when you can afford it. A lot better. This is universal with guitars, mandolins, basically everything that gives you a choice between laminate and solid. I've heard the Mainlands are really good and are all solid wood for a very reasonable price. Again, something that is unique to Ukulele. You can't buy solid wood anything for a couple hundred bucks in guitar or mandolin. I have the Pono, so I probably won't get to find out much about other brands. I have no UAS now or in the foreseeable future.

5) String spacing at the nut is always mentioned, but string spacing at the saddle is almost always left out of the description of ukuleles online. It is important. The Kala and Pono are the same at the nut, but vary by over 1/4 inch at the saddle. This has a major impact on flatpicking and especially fingerstyle. My fingers don't fit between the strings on the Kala, but there is plenty of room on the Pono. I'd ask about this metric if considering different brands.

6) There is a lot of information about the "proper" way to play a ukulele. Play with your fingers only...it's NOT a little guitar...don't use a pick. It's all bulls...it's poppycock :) I like people to be able to hear me, so I play with a flatpick and it sounds AWESOME! I can be heard at a jam and it gives clarity that the fingers take away. I'm good at flatpicking, so that's how I play it most of the time. And it IS like a little guitar if that's how you want to play it. The intervals are exactly the same as the top 4 strings of the guitar tuned up 5 half steps. In low G tuning, it is essentially a small tenor guitar. I'm currently playing a lot of bluegrass straight out of a Steve Kauffman guitar book, and it sounds great (I can read standard notation, so that helps). I still play fingerstyle, but don't throw away your picks because you read about the traditional way to play the uke and think you have to follow suit.

7) Ukuleles sound awesome. The mandolin is too short and bright for playing along with popular music, and the guitar is great but its loud and not at all convenient to keep on top of a coffee table for easy access.

8) Ukulele is easy to fall in love with. If you are thinking about getting into it, DO IT! You can buy a Kala KA tenor mahagony laminate for $79 and it's going to be a good instrument if properly set up. If you don't like it, you're out $80 and you can probably resell it for $60. $20 is a pretty light gamble on picking up a new instrument. I bought the Kala KA-TG for around $139, quickly found out I loved ukulele and bought a solid spruce/rosewood Pono a week later. That said, I have a backup that sounds good and I don't care if I ding it up. Tough to go wrong getting in with the laminate Kala or something similar.

Anyway, this covers most of the information that I spent hours researching or wondering about before I bought a ukulele. Hopefully it will save some time for some newbs and help pull the trigger on getting into the ukulele! Happy playing!
 
Very astute observations and many people will find them very useful.

P.S. I concur on Ko'olau Golds.
 
Not sure about solid wood always being better. After hearing my new Famous/Kiwaya FS-5, I'd say it sounds better (and intonates better) than a lot of sopranos, even far more expensive ones. This is likely to apply to the concert model also. Then there's Blackbird's e-koa, which I haven't heard in person yet, but judging by videos it is superior to wood in a number of ways, especially when you play up the neck. Both the Kiwaya/Famous and the Blackbird models cost more than a lot of solid wood instruments, too. Construction and craftsmanship matter a lot too, not just the material (there are plenty of overbuilt, dead-sounding solid wood instruments around).

But I don't doubt one second that a solid Pono PC model sounds better than a laminate Kala model. :p Even with cheap laminates you have differences. The Islander models probably sound better than the Kala models, and both are fully laminate. I used to be rather skeptical of non-wooden ukuleles, but my view really shifted here with some exposure.

As for picks: Aaron Keim made a video on using picks with ukuleles. After watching it, I bought various picks and thumbpicks, and they gave me a completely different tone that I couldn't emulate with fingers (or vice versa). This changed my take on them: They are just another tool, and the more tools you have to create different sounds, the better. I'm much more comfortable playing with nails, but I don't see why someone shouldn't use picks if they like the feel and the sound they produce.

 
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I progressed on the uke faster than any other instrument I've ever picked up (bass & guitar) probably because of the size. It's so easy to sit around and play while watching TV or surfing the internet. I have several lying around the house so I can play whenever I please.
 
Totally get your point on guitars being big and the practice time. I can play ukulele at any time. I can't play guitar at any time. Acoustic only and a night shift worker. I have a lot of insomniac time at the weekend when I'm off.

Also sitting the uke out of harm's way by my seat is great. The acoustic has to stay cased as the lummox of a thing is easy knocked over by the kids.

Great post!
 
Not sure about solid wood always being better.

Agree - I'll take my Blackbird Clara against just about anything - of course it is a $1600 instrument (unless you get lucky and can buy one used).

Otherwise - great observations I particularly like 2) that you can get a fun and functional instrument for just a few dollars.
 
Agree - I'll take my Blackbird Clara against just about anything - of course it is a $1600 instrument (unless you get lucky and can buy one used).

Otherwise - great observations I particularly like 2) that you can get a fun and functional instrument for just a few dollars.

Yes, you're right. It is a rule with exceptions. A laminate instrument could be very well made and very good sounding. In general when the time, effort, and additional cost is put into making an exquisite instrument builders generally go ahead and use solid wood. In lower price points (especially lower than $1600!) you often have to get lucky to get a good laminate instrument. That is less true with solid wood, although they can still sound terrible if built incorrectly. It's also a matter of whether or not you will even notice the difference. For a beginner, with a good setup on both, the difference between laminate and solid may be very minor. The additional cost certainly wouldn't be justified. Solid wood also "opens up" where laminate really doesn't. I like the shake in a solid wood soundboard! However if a laminate sounds terrific from the beginning it will keep sounding terrific.
 
Solid wood also "opens up" where laminate really doesn't.

Solid wood changes as it ages. It may sound better or it may sound worse (or crack, wrap, belly and dish). Buying a quality laminated instrument (Kiwaya, Famous) doesn't require luck, it'll sound good because they are all the same, but you're paying more for it than for a good number of solid wood instruments.

I feel that this is more about cheap vs. expensive or mass produced products vs. hand-crafted and quality checked instruments. Kiwaya's laminated concert model costs about $600+, and you get the quality you pay for. The soprano version I have cost a bit less, and I feel it sounds better (and louder) than both the solid koa soprano I have and the koa K brand soprano I sold. Both are great instruments, but the laminate is exceptional. I expected it from the reviews of the FS-5, and what HMS had said about it, but it still blew me away.
 
Solid wood changes as it ages. It may sound better or it may sound worse (or crack, wrap, belly and dish). Buying a quality laminated instrument (Kiwaya, Famous) doesn't require luck, it'll sound good because they are all the same, but you're paying more for it than for a good number of solid wood instruments.

That's why I've tended to buy laminate, plastic and ekoa - when you're living in a desert solid wood ukes are more likely to have fret sprout, crack and buzz.

Also - expanding on your second paragraph - I wonder if you could make the argument that at when you see higher priced laminates they hold their own or then some - probably because for most folks, if you're going to buy something that isn't the norm for the price point then it had better be special. The Kiwaya laminate seems to hold its own in its price bracket, and so does the Blackbird Clara. I've only played a couple of other $1600 ukes, and while the Collings I tried was pretty amazing I think i'd probably prefer the Clara.
 
As for picks: Aaron Keim made a video on using picks with ukuleles. After watching it, I bought various picks and thumbpicks, and they gave me a completely different tone that I couldn't emulate with fingers (or vice versa). This changed my take on them: They are just another tool, and the more tools you have to create different sounds, the better. I'm much more comfortable playing with nails, but I don't see why someone shouldn't use picks if they like the feel and the sound they produce.

Here's something I can equate to :)

Having fingerpicked a guitar for 40+ years I needed to learn to use a plectrum (pick) when I decided to take up mandolin, relatively recently.

Having acquired a new skill-set I tried applying it to most of the other fretted strings I've got and found that whereas a fairly generic "medium" will work well enough on most instruments, for my ukuleles I've needed to experiment to get a sound I'm happy with. On almost every different ukulele I use regularly there'll be an "optimum" plectrum that's not too hard/soft/stiff/floppy and I've a selection of Jim Dunlop's "USA Nylon", most of which are dedicated to an individual instrument, thinner on a soprano with 5th's tuning, a couple of sizes thicker on my baritone.

I rarely use a plectrum for strumming a ukulele, but for single-note melody line tunes, like a lot of dance tunes, I find they work well :)

Tools for the job, horses for courses, etc. etc., YMMV :music:
 
5) String spacing at the nut is always mentioned, but string spacing at the saddle is almost always left out of the description of ukuleles online. It is important. The Kala and Pono are the same at the nut, but vary by over 1/4 inch at the saddle. This has a major impact on flatpicking and especially fingerstyle. My fingers don't fit between the strings on the Kala, but there is plenty of room on the Pono. I'd ask about this metric if considering different brands.

I completely agree with this - interestingly, I don't get on with Kala instruments for this exact reason. I find them very cramped for fingerpicking. It's a pity because they've got a lovely range of instruments. It looks like their Elite series has wider spacing at the bridge:

http://worldofukes.co.uk/concert-ukuleles/kala-1koa-c-elite-concert-ukulele-natural

If I had that sort of money to spend on a uke I'd be a happy man :cool:
 
Excellent post! I agree with so much here, especially the bit about using picks. I'm mainly interested in fingerstyle and hybrid stuff so I don't use a plectrum much, but when I do it works great. Regular guitar ones from the thinner end though. I tried some felt and leather uke versions which were all terrible. Some of the worst advice I've seen was where people advised that guitar picks would "wear through the top of a ukulele in a few songs" or similar, which made me laugh quite a bit.

The string spacing point is interesting. Any chance you could measure the spacing of the Pono and Kala at the saddle?
 
The Kala is right at 1 1/2" and the pono is just over 1 3/4 (1 25/32). They are both 1 1/16 at the nut. Measurements are center of G string to center of A string.
 
After a bit more than a month playing a homemade soprano I'm very comfortable with the key of C major. All the chords, the major scale, the major pentatonic and blues scales are just naturally under finger and open strings. I transpose everything from G & D my usual guitar, mandolin and singing keys. I'm a flat picker but I do like the fleshy sound of my thumb for quiet strumming. I discovered a C chord most of you would know. From the top, hammer on CECG as normal and then CGCG and back to CECG for a few of bars of C in a row.
 
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Your CGCG is called a C5 chord, for future reference. It's where you only play the 1st and 5th notes and omit the 3rd. Also known as a power chord.
 
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