Heavy headstock

bunnyf

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I'm wondering...
1. How many of you out there are bothered by a heavy headstock, and
2. If you have a slotted headstock, did you get it primarily for the decreased weight or just some aesthetic consideration or perhaps some functional consideration.
I ask this because my daily player (a Bari) is very heavy in the head and I find it truly annoying and distracting. Even with a large lovely Lakota leather strap, I am bothered with the constant feeling of the headstock dropping. Even though I love the uke in every other way, I'm thinking that this may be intolerable and I may have to move this uke on to someone less perhaps "princess and the pea" than me. Is it just me? Are any of the rest of you bothered by this and have you taken this into serious consideration when picking an uke and did you pick a slotted for this very reason? Just like to hear your thoughts, as I contemplate whether I should consider a different Bari in the future.
 
1. Nope, doesn't bother me. I'd take a lightly built body with heavy neck over an overbuilt body with perfect balance any day.
2. Slotted headstocks will usually be heavier because they need to be much thicker to allow the tuners to fit.

If you're really concerned by balance, look at the profile and wood type of the neck, as these have a lot of bearing on weight. Sealed tuners will also add weight over open geared tuners, as will metal knobs over wood.
What type and size of strap are you using and how is it attached? A good strap should prevent the neck from dropping.
 
I don't know about bari but for sopranos which I only play I prefer the center of gravity right at the twelfth fret region. I prefer the look and weight of a traditional flat headstock with pegs over geared , which is in line with my above opinion as well. If a concert or soprano would have a slotted headstock it is bc I want it resembling a classical guitar which means spruce top and rosewood back. In that case I would suspect it to be slightly heavier towards the headstock but not by too much where it would interfere in play.
 
Did you try a strap that attaches to the headstock? Is it just the headstock which is heavy, or is it the entire neck? As Dan mentioned, having some weight at the right places of the neck is not necessarily a bad thing, and some believe that it may even help with sustain and/or tone.

As for slotted headstocks: In most cases, they will not be much lighter (unless they are made ultra thin to fit Gotoh Stealth tuners, as done by John Kinnard). I wouldn't buy a slotheaded model based only on the assumption that the neck will be lighter than on the instrument you currently own.
 
Slotted headstocks are heavier, some like them for their looks, (I fell into that one), but they are not so heavy as to make a lot of difference.

I think your problem may just be your strap slipping, which is very common, just need to get some anti slip material where it goes over your shoulder.
 
As Dan said........you are getting quoted here a lot Dan:D, a slotted headstock is heavier. Myself and Simon have multiple Pono tenors and the ones with slotted head stocks are always heavier then the solid headstock of identical models. The slotted head is bigger, thicker and uses heavier tuners.

Yes a heavy headstock bothers me and I use wide straps on all my ukes. Just like you I always seem to be fighting "The Droop"....no middle aged jokes here please. Attaching to the headstock does help but I do not like that configuration so I live with it because the few ukes that are like that have such a great sound it is worth the hassle.
 
Thanks for the responses. I didn't think about the greater thickness for slotted. I do have open gear tuners and a really nice wide leather strap that is rough on the inside to help with slippage but the droop is still there. I'm not fond of my strap attaching to the headstock but I'm gonna give it another try there (I usually prefer a second button on the heel). My other regular player is a very lightly built soprano with friction tuners so the head drop on my Bari annoys me. I was just thinking that if I got another Bari, that slotted might be the way to go for less weight (don't particularly like their look). But, I guess that's not really the answer. Thanks tho for the info.
 
Thanks for the responses. I didn't think about the greater thickness for slotted. I do have open gear tuners and a really nice wide leather strap that is rough on the inside to help with slippage but the droop is still there. I'm not fond of my strap attaching to the headstock but I'm gonna give it another try there (I usually prefer a second button on the heel). My other regular player is a very lightly built soprano with friction tuners so the head drop on my Bari annoys me. I was just thinking that if I got another Bari, that slotted might be the way to go for less weight (don't particularly like their look). But, I guess that's not really the answer. Thanks tho for the info.

I have a Kamaka baritone this is NOT head heavy. It is actually one of the very best balanced instruments I own. It is effortless to hold and play, very light in over all weight for a large ukulele.
 
Thanks for the responses. I didn't think about the greater thickness for slotted. I do have open gear tuners and a really nice wide leather strap that is rough on the inside to help with slippage but the droop is still there. I'm not fond of my strap attaching to the headstock but I'm gonna give it another try there (I usually prefer a second button on the heel). My other regular player is a very lightly built soprano with friction tuners so the head drop on my Bari annoys me. I was just thinking that if I got another Bari, that slotted might be the way to go for less weight (don't particularly like their look). But, I guess that's not really the answer. Thanks tho for the info.

Kinnard makes a phenomenal baritone. I agonized whether or not to get a slotted headstock on mine, but ultimately decided not to because it's an "adder" (adds about $300 on a custom), but I have played many Kinnards with slotted headstocks. It is a very thin, elegant design. Kinnards are always nicely balanced. Just to show you the design, here is a Kinnard slotted headstock tenor:

http://www.theukulelesite.com/shop-...3-sycamore-spruce-cutaway-slothead-tenor.html
 
I prefer lighter headstocks with ukuleles, chiefly because I prefer playing without a strap and a heavy top makes this much harder for me. This is especially true for the smaller sizes. At the same time, though, I do find a slotted headstock aesthetically pleasing, but only on larger ukuleles (baritones in particular), which isn't too much a contradiction as I found baritones comfortably playable with either classical (with a foot rest) or acoustic guitar (over the right leg) posture.
 
Thanks for the responses. I didn't think about the greater thickness for slotted. I do have open gear tuners and a really nice wide leather strap that is rough on the inside to help with slippage but the droop is still there. I'm not fond of my strap attaching to the headstock but I'm gonna give it another try there (I usually prefer a second button on the heel). My other regular player is a very lightly built soprano with friction tuners so the head drop on my Bari annoys me. I was just thinking that if I got another Bari, that slotted might be the way to go for less weight (don't particularly like their look). But, I guess that's not really the answer. Thanks tho for the info.

Try attaching your strap away from the nut, between the tuners, gives you a little more room for your fretting fingers.
This should also give yor ukulele better balance.
 
Sailinguke, this is just what I am gonna try. I've never liked a strap attached to the headstock, even between the tuners, but I'm gonna give it a go again. Other that the heavy headstock, I love my Pono PC.
 
I think your headstock issue may be a Pono thing. I had a Pono baritone once. Ponos have thicker necks than many other ukuleles, and my experience was that it felt topheavy. I have other baritones now (I sold my Pono a long time ago) - Kamaka and Mya Moe - and between the thinner necks and lighter headstocks, the headstock side of the ukulele feels very light.
 
bunny, this is why I don't own an Arrowhead (local luthier) uke. Heavy headstocks, which he says is necessary for sustain. My Cocobolo uke does NOT have a heavy headstock (the whole uke is a little heavy) and there's lots of sustain. I just don't care for open headstocks, myself.
I wish a speedy solution to this issue!
 
It was stated that the wood is thicker and heavy tuners also add weight. There are lighter geared tuners, and the lightest made are PEGHEDS. They are a 4:1 ratio tuner which is quite adequate for a ukulele. They can be mounted sttraight up and down or in slotted headstocks as well. You can get a cheap knock off from a couple of places on the internet made by Knilling. they are chinese made and have a 45 DAY warranty. PEGHEDS are warranted by the fellow who makes them in South Carolina for a lifetime if installed properly (which isn't brain surgery). If you are interested, I check my e mail more often than I check U/U . thecraftedcow@comcast.net I also have the best price of anyone, any where in the world, and different models.
 
My Kanilea Baritone is very light and therefore almost effortless to support with the left hand. Still, I prefer my Pono RBSH-PC, despite the fact that it is eavier towards the headstock.

Some of the weight can be dealt with by your playing position, without using a strap. When I'm sitting on a comfy chair or sofa, I gently pinch the instrument's body between my right thigh and my right forearm; in this position, the instrument floats freely, without any support of my left hand (no idea if this position is ergonomically correct, but it does the trick, and I'm sitting comfortable).
 
A heavy headstock can be frustrating. I use my Uke Leash to keep the neck in position, and it really eliminates that problem. Since it connects at the headstock (between the tuners is best) and then secures around your arm or belt loop, there is no chance for it to rotate out of position, which is common for a standard button strap. It is an easy fix, and if it doesn't work, you can return it. For a bari, it will work if you are sitting and playing.

–Lori
 
in this position, the instrument floats freely, without any support of my left hand (no idea if this position is ergonomically correct, but it does the trick, and I'm sitting comfortable).

For the longest time, I thought classical guitar posture was ergonomically correct and the best way of holding baritone ukes and guitars. When I dug deeper, I learned that this isn't actually the case and that many guitarists end up with injuries in the lower back area, apparently from the foot rest. I also learned of two devices that I think may well work for the baritone: one is the GuitaRest, which Larry Pattis recommended to me, and (probably more interesting for baritones and possibly tenors) is NeckUp. I'm particularly intrigued by the latter and may grab one in January.
 
For me headstock weight is not an issue at any scale length, since most of the time I use a strap, and all my straps are tied at the headstock and endpin.

In this configuration, if you slightly press down on the front-face EDGE of the bass-side part of the lower bout (but aligned behind the bridge area, i.e., the 'tush' of the uke), with the underside of your forearm, even if you strum from the elbow, it will exert enough downward pressure to keep the head of the instrument UP.

It does not take gorilla-strength, just a little pressure at the right angle from the weight of your arm.

Using a strap allows a sort of fulcrum or pivot if you will and we are talking about maybe 1-2 oz of pressure/force, not 1-2 lbs of pressure/force. Remember even most baritone ukes do not weigh more than 2 lbs if even that.

It is more a matter of right-hand technique than anything else. It may take some time to learn so do not dismiss it right away.

Also, if you do this in such a way that the BACK of the instrument is NOT against your body as much, it will resonate more, and you will be surprised at the increase in volume and bass tones.

This is what I do with most of my ukes, my Cordoba Mini, classical and also tenor guitar when using a strap.

If I am seated, and not using a strap, I used a modified form of the classical guitar position, but without that silly foot rest or any supports (supports were not a thing when I learned classical guitar), and what I do is have the neck up at an angle of about 65 degrees, with the bottom of the treble-side of the lower bout and endpin area resting on my right leg (playing right handed of course).

Quite a few workable solutions have been recommended here in previous posts, and I like the way that the NeckUp works (thanks Mivo) but I dont like to be dependent upon contraptions, that if lost or broken means that I cannot play or that all the muscle memory from using them is gone and not being able to play until a replacement is acquired. I'd have to at least buy them in pairs to feel comfortable with the idea about using them. "2 is 1 and 1 is none" from computer backup strategies applies here for me...
 
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