New Martin strings on an old Martin uke

gustophersmob

gustophersmob

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As you probably saw in my other thread, I've recently become the newest caretaker of a 50's Martin concert uke. Today I changed the very old strings that were on it for a set of new Martin M600 fluorocarbons. They're still settling in, but so far they seem to sound quite nice.

Couple of things I noticed; one, the C string when knotted would barely fit in the hole in the bridge. If I tied one overhand knot it would fit, but the knot would certainly slip and untie. With two ties (granny knot), it was big enough to be a struggle to get seated. I think I even left a little mark in the top trying, though it's hard to tell. Is this normal? Any tricks to make it better?

Second, I noticed that the knot on the A string seats really far into the hole, and the old one was stubborn coming out. I imagine it's just getting worn. I'm taking it to my luthier to look over in a couple of weeks (it's got 2 cracks that look stable, but I want him to check out) so I'll have him look at that too. I'm wondering if there's anything simple to prolong the life of the slot before it has a "blow out"?

So far, though, I'm very happy with this uke. Can't wait to get some hours on the new strings!
 
Try making your knot by running the string through the loop twice. It will be slightly bigger and stronger. Then squash it with a pliers to make it fit in the slot.
 
Ziret said:
Try making your knot by running the string through the loop twice. It will be slightly bigger and stronger. Then squash it with a pliers to make it fit in the slot.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll try that!
 
Yes, the Martin strings sound great on my old Martin. As far as the A string, I tie a knot as mentioned above and then another knot around that, seems to work fine. Or, try this...
Ashley's stopper knot.jpg
 
UkerDanno said:
Yes, the Martin strings sound great on my old Martin. As far as the A string, I tie a knot as mentioned above and then another knot around that, seems to work fine. Or, try this...
View attachment 99756
Click to expand...

Thanks, that stopper knot looks interesting. I need to get another string set to sacrifice for some knot tying. It's hard for me to visualize how big the knot will end up without using the actual string.
 
I have Aquila nylguts on my Martin vintage O.....some ukes love them, some don't. Mine does as do several UU'ers that have provided feedback.
 
PhilUSAFRet said:
I have Aquila nylguts on my Martin vintage O.....some ukes love them, some don't. Mine does as do several UU'ers that have provided feedback.
Click to expand...

I actually was going to try those 1st, but even the strings in the soprano set were too large in diameter to fit in the bridge slots. At this point, I'm not prepared to try to modify them. Plus the Martin strings sound good enough right now, I'm not too worried about it right now.
 
gustophersmob said:
I actually was going to try those 1st, but even the strings in the soprano set were too large in diameter to fit in the bridge slots. At this point, I'm not prepared to try to modify them. Plus the Martin strings sound good enough right now, I'm not too worried about it right now.
Click to expand...

The Aquila Red Series or Carbonblacks should work, gauge-wise. Noticeably thinner than the regular Nylguts, and louder (than anything).
 
Last edited:
Be careful with that knot on the A string . I use a small bead on the A string on all my sopranos. Sometimes the string will pop out of the slot and split it if the knot is too small.
Here is another knot , this one shown by Ken Timms
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-rBcbXqql0
I use a single overhand knot on the C string , never had one pull out.
 
Last edited:
Mivo said:
The Aquila Red Series or Carbonblacks sound work, gauge-wise. Noticeably thinner than the regular Nylguts, and louder (than anything).
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll add those to the list as well.
 
Pukulele Pete said:
Be careful with that knot on the A string . I use a small bead on the A string on all my sopranos. Sometimes the string will pop out of the slot and split it if the knot is too small.
Here is another knot , this one shown by Ken Timms
[URL="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-rBcbXqql0
I use a single overhand knot on the C string , never had one pull out.
Click to expand...

Good idea. What kind of bead do you use?
 
I seem to think it is a 3mm bead bought at a craft store. I will look later for the container, to confirm the size.
If you do a search here on this site I think you can find the size of the bead.:anyone:
 
Martin flourocarbon ukulele strings are highly underrated. They are in my regular rotation.

I keep a small screwdriver handy to get those knotted strings in and out of the hole. I do what was suggested - string the loop twice before knotting. On the thicker strings, I give a tug with a pair of pliers to make it snug. And with that A string, make sure it is set in the slot before tightening the string. Simply just give a good tug on it before stringing it on the peghead.

I LOVE vintage Martins! Best ukes out there.
 
Pukulele Pete said:
I seem to think it is a 3mm bead bought at a craft store. I will look later for the container, to confirm the size.
If you do a search here on this site I think you can find the size of the bead.:anyone:
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'll do a search.
 
bearbike137 said:
Martin flourocarbon ukulele strings are highly underrated. They are in my regular rotation.

I keep a small screwdriver handy to get those knotted strings in and out of the hole. I do what was suggested

Good suggestions, thanks!
Click to expand...
 
Another somewhat related question about string tension: Are nylgut type strings (like Aquila) higher tension than fluorocarbon strings (like the m600's)?

I've read conflicting things in different posts both here and elsewhere.
 
gustophersmob said:
Another somewhat related question about string tension: Are nylgut type strings (like Aquila) higher tension than fluorocarbon strings (like the m600's)?

I've read conflicting things in different posts both here and elsewhere.
Click to expand...

Some people think one is higher than the other and vis versa, it is a large can of worms. String tension seems to be a more complicated issue than what it first appears. Under finger tension or feel on the fretting fingers can be different to the plucking hand. Some people are more sensitive to a hard surface or a thinner diameter some are the opposite. It is almost a "try it for yourself and see issue".

One thing that never gets discussed is the actual instrument itself. A luthier was discussing the effect the instrument has, the bracing close to the bridge, the break angle, the method it is tied or inserted or pin bridge etc etc. A light bulb came on during that conversation because I have heard people here say Oasis are high tension then another person says they are not.

I have four tenors strung with the same South Coast HML-WB low G set and the tension feels different from one instrument to the next. My LfdM feels low to mid tension with those strings and is effortless to play. My Pono felt high tension with the same set.
 
Last edited:
DownUpDave said:
Some people think one is higher than the other and vis versa, it is a large can of worms. String tension seems to be a more complicated issue than what it first appears. Under finger tension or feel on the fretting fingers can be different to the plucking hand. Some people are more sensitive to a hard surface or a thinner diameter some are the opposite. It is almost a "try it for yourself and see issue".

One thing that never gets discussed is the actual instrument itself. A luthier was discussing the effect the instrument has, the bracing close to the bridge, the break angle, the method it is tied or inserted or pin bridge etc etc. A light bulb came on during that conversation because I have heard people here say Oasis are high tension then another person says they are not.

I have four tenors strung with the same South Coast HML-WB low G set and the tension feels different from one instrument to the next. My LfdM feels low to mid tension with those strings and is effortless to play. My Pono felt high tension with the same set.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed reply! I actually prefer the feel of the fluorocarbon so far. What I'm really wondering though is how much actual tension they're applying to the instrument. Since this Martin is 60ish years old and feels like it is a relatively light build, I don't want to put strings on it that have unusually high tension. I assume regular soprano/concert sets of either bulgur or fluorocarbon are likely just fine, but just want to be sure.
 
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