Strap buttons and binding

Theblackegg

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I've just received my lovely LFDM ukulele however, i am hesitant about installing strap buttons as the back and sides are bound with a strip of ebony.
Do you just drill through the binding, or offset the pilot hole avoiding it altogether?

Thanks in advance

George
 
I've just received my lovely LFDM ukulele however, i am hesitant about installing strap buttons as the back and sides are bound with a strip of ebony.
Do you just drill through the binding, or offset the pilot hole avoiding it altogether?

Thanks in advance

George


Congratulations, I own an LfdM tenor as well. You can install the bottom button as usual by drilling a pilot just slightly smaller then the outside diameter of the screw. When you are referring to ebony binding I am assuming you mean the tail graft that runs from top to bottom.

IMG_3658.jpg
 
Congratulations, I own an LfdM tenor as well. You can install the bottom button as usual by drilling a pilot just slightly smaller then the outside diameter of the screw. When you are referring to ebony binding I am assuming you mean the tail graft that runs from top to bottom.

View attachment 101316

That's correct! Except on my model the tail graft is very narrow in comparison to your beauty, it's perhaps only about 5-7mm wide and was worried that it may split? It's still wider than the screw would be?!
 
That's correct! Except on my model the tail graft is very narrow in comparison to your beauty, it's perhaps only about 5-7mm wide and was worried that it may split? It's still wider than the screw would be?!

My tenor has ebony bindings and the same narrow ebony tail graft. I just didn't have a picture of it
 
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I wonder what the reason is for that gusset there? I'm assuming looks. If it does not have any other structural function, I would think that drilling the right size hole to accept the threads would not split it. That is why we drill holes before we crank the screw in. Also, I would assume that it is glued to a larger block of wood that lays behind it. If there is a good glue joint between them, I would think that would prevent splitting as well. Just using my logic here. Take it for what it is worth.
 
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A strap is so useful for me that I've added strap button to everyone of my ukes. Drilling is how you avoid splitting, as others have said, the drill bit should be slightly smaller than the screw shaft.
 
I put strap buttons on all of my bari's and tenors. My absolute favorite is the D'addario elliptical button. The shape gives me assurance that the strap is not going to work itself off and result in the dreaded ding experience. After you drill the pilot hole, find a steel screw the same size as the brass screws that come in the package. Screw it in your pilot holes to avoid breaking off the brass screw. It forms some threads that make the brass screw go in easily. To make it even easier. put a little paraffin wax on the threads. Good luck.
 
All sound advice.
Deed is done, no cracks splits or scratches. panic over.
 
All sound advice.
Deed is done, no cracks splits or scratches. panic over.

Excellent.........now we need pictures of this new LFDM. You know what they say, no pictures, it didn't happen. A NUD post would be in order. NUD stands for New Uke Day. Pictures and a description, including details about the wood combo, bindings, trim, playability, sound characteristics etc. , etc., are always greatly appreciated by the members here.
 
Congratulations on your new Uke, and welcome to the LFdM family! Glad to hear that you got one, I'm sure you're thrilled with it. Now, as Dave said: Let's see some pictures, everyone here loves a NUD.
 
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