Neck re-set on a MayBell uke

pbagley

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I need a recommendation on the glue to use to reattach the neck on a MayBell soprano ukulele.

Hide Glue (bought in a bottle)
TiteBond
Other?

The MayBell looks a lot like a Regal. My brother-in-law bought it at an auction for me. It appears to have a bullet hole in the body... probably not really a bullet hole, but a conversation starter. Other than needing the neck glued on and the hole it's kind of pretty.

Thanks in advance,

- Paul
 
Is there no perch pole or bracket? Is the neck just glued on? I have not seen genuine Slingerland Maybell Uke glued. I think the "Bullet hole" is in fact the hole that the perch pole goes through. This is held in place by a bracket and is adjustable to alter the rake of the neck to adjust the action. If you do not have all the parts and cannot get them, I believe you have a piece of wall decoration. Check out images in Google. There are plenty of pictures of banj ukes so you will understand.
 
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Sorry Barry, I should have been more clear. It is a soprano wooden uke that appears to be a lot like my Regal.


I scraped the old glue off the neck joint last night after taking the photo.

The strings were interesting. Actual string, not nylon or other "modern" string material. One was broken, one was broken and knotted. They were near rotting and one broke as I pulled the knot out of the bridge slot.
 
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Here is how I would approach this project.
The neck looks straight but check it anyway. Dry fit the neck and see if it lines up with the face (should be parallel). If so see if more glue needs to be removed to ensure a tight fit. Rig out a system that hold the neck to the body and maintains the parallel relationship and the bridge/saddle should line up with the frets. That dowel set up can twist.
I've used a board with a cutout for the bridge, the board extends from the bottom to just below the nut. I have some veneer that matches the fret height placed on the face to keep everything lined up.
The board and veneer are solidly clamped to the body, the neck section is lightly held to the board by rubber bands, the neck to the body by a long clamp with cork cushions at each end. Be sure that the lengthwise tension doesn't skew the neck away from the board. None of the tensions need to be great just enough to hold it in alignment. Too much can wrap things. I'd use Titebond Red.
 
Thanks. Tightbond Red. Everything looks straight and true. Big challenge is setting the 12th fret as I set the neck. Perhaps setting the fret at the same time as the neck is a mistake.

I'm looking forward to hearing what this little uke sounds like.
 
Big challenge is setting the 12th fret as I set the neck. Perhaps setting the fret at the same time as the neck is a mistake.

I'm looking forward to hearing what this little uke sounds like.

I would wait awhile to set the 12th fret. Easily done if you have a thin hand saw. I've used a Japanese one from Harbor Freight for years.
Those vintage sopranos have surprising punch when strummed hard but don't expect it to match a vintage Martin.
 
You want to use real hot hide glue not the bottled stuff. Don't use tight bond...It's great glue, but if you decide you need to re-set it again, heat and steam is much easier with hide glue.
 
Yes, real hide glue and not the bottled stuff. However, real hide glue is kind of a pain for a quick and simple repair. Titebond "red" (which is labeled "Titebond Original) will work well. It can be undone if needed with heat and steam, but is less impacted by everyday humidity.
 
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