View Full Version : Gibson identity

08-03-2017, 08:39 PM
Hi all,

Is it possible to identify which model my Gibson soprano is. From the logo I believe it to be mid 1930's but not sure if it is a style 1 or 2. I suspect style 2 had the rope binding around the soundhole. The uke has an X braced top. Thanks for any help.101951

08-04-2017, 01:04 AM
It has the bound top, so I believe it is a Uke-2, but I think it is perhaps from the 50s. I'll let the experts weigh in on this.

08-05-2017, 12:21 AM
I thought that initially but the logo had changed by then. I agree we need a Gibson expert's advice.

08-05-2017, 01:22 AM
You can contact Joe Spann at Gruhn http://guitars.com He wrote a book on Gibson history.
Other good resources you can contact


You may be interested in reading this, https://antebelluminstruments.blogspot.com/2015/09/1948-gibson-uke-2-soprano-ukulele.html which looks similar.

mm stan
08-05-2017, 06:01 AM

08-05-2017, 11:37 AM
I hope you got a good deal on that ..

08-05-2017, 06:40 PM
I was happy with it. I was looking for a Martin concert but it will do for now.

08-09-2017, 08:10 AM
It's made after 1940, when the soundhole decoration was changed from black-natural rope binding to white-black-white rings. The (wonderful!) 13rd fret also says loud that this on is made after the early 1940s. The body's probably also slightly shallower than earlier rope-bound ones.

White nuts and saddles, and body binding were usually reserved for uke-2 and uke-3.

Gibson was very sketchy about it's different styles, the uke-3 in fact toning down so much it became almost indistinguable from a uke-2 by 1938. But in fact, by 1940 Gibson dropped the uke-2 name, and called it uke-3 until around 1954. In spite of this, we usually call these instruments without fretboard binding and back binding and with smaller fretboard dots uke-2s.

Headstock logos are VERY confusing when it comes to Gibson, in spite of what many websites claim. Yes, this is the 1930s white 'script' logo, but it was used for a very wide period of time, well into the 1940s.

If you look inside with a flash light, there might be a code stamped or written in pencil on the neck block, which might help dating it. It's not a serial number, but a Factory Order Number meant to trace production batch and cost (so numbers were assigned haphazardly and often reused) but it can give a good idea. Uke-1s usually don't have them, TU's almost always have them.