Ukes with bridge pins

kats45

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Hi All, I just bought (ordered) a Hawaiian uke from Hawaii Music Supply and it has bridge pins. What I don't know is how bridge pins work with nylon strings. Can you enlighten me?
 
You can tie a large knot in the end of the string or tie it to a small bead. Then use the bridge pins as you normally would, with the knot or the bead standing in for the ball-end.
 
The short answer is that bridge pins DON'T work with nylon strings. As stated above you need to make your own ball ends by tying on a bead.
 
The short answer is that bridge pins DON'T work with nylon strings. As stated above you need to make your own ball ends by tying on a bead.

I have a couple of Kanilea's. Bridge pins DO work very well with nylon strings. A simple knot and you're good to go, no bead required.
 
I have a couple of Kanilea's. Bridge pins DO work very well with nylon strings. A simple knot and you're good to go, no bead required.

You can get away with it, if your cross your fingers, and I have done it, but they don't "Work" without ball ends/beads.

The fundamental design of bridge pin bridges is that the ball end is displaced sideways and secured under the saddle/top and then when the string is tensioned the ball end tries to come sideways but it stopped by the pin which is being pressed against the other side of the hole. There is no vertical force to resist. If you just tie a knot in the string it doesn't always place enough sideways pressure on the pin and people resort to pushing the pins in harder and harder which isn't how they are designed to work.
 
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Pin bridges for nylon strings are usually designed differently than the ones for steel strings which Anthony is referring to. With Kanilea and Islander, for instance, they have a slot facing towards the soundhole/neck, so the knot sits beneath. Works perfectly fine with all types of nylon or fluorocarbon strings. Use a couple of figure 8 knots on each string to prevent them from slipping.
 
Pin bridges for nylon strings are usually designed differently than the ones for steel strings which Anthony is referring to. With Kanilea and Islander, for instance, they have a slot facing towards the soundhole/neck, so the knot sits beneath. Works perfectly fine with all types of nylon or fluorocarbon strings. Use a couple of figure 8 knots on each string to prevent them from slipping.

Well if they do that, then that's good, however, its not technically a pin bridge anymore. Then it would be an under soundboard slot bridge and the pins are just there for decoration. They serve no other purpose. I own a Cole Clark Ukulady with a pin bridge and there are no slots.

So, it will depend on the exact design in question. Not all "Pin Bridges" are equal it seems.
 
In the video I posted above, Joe Souza of Kanilea, states that the slots in the pins should face away from the sound hole. Does it matter? I have an Islander tenor, and a soprano incoming. I've not changed strings on an Islander yet, so I'm curious.
 
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In the video I posted above, Joe Souza of Kanilea, states that the slots in the pins should face away from the sound hole. Does it matter? I have an Islander tenor, and a soprano incoming. I've not changed strings on an Islander yet, so I'm curious.

There are two ways that the "Bridge Pin" designs seem to work.

The "standard" way, seen on steel string guitars as a plain hole and a string with a ball end. The slot in the pin is needed on the string/sound hole side to allow the string through. Otherwise there is nowhere for the string to run.

The Classic string variation with the slot on the saddle/sound hole side is different in that the string is placed in the slot with a knot holding it there. Then the pin is positioned with the slot AWAY from the string to close any possible gap. Truth be known the pin isn't really needed when doing it this way. The strings should stay in place without the pins.

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There are two ways that the "Bridge Pin" designs seem to work.

The "standard" way, seen on steel string guitars as a plain hole and a string with a ball end. The slot in the pin is needed on the string/sound hole side to allow the string through. Otherwise there is nowhere for the string to run.

The Classic string variation with the slot on the saddle/sound hole side is different in that the string is placed in the slot with a knot holding it there. Then the pin is positioned with the slot AWAY from the string to close any possible gap. Truth be known the pin isn't really needed when doing it this way. The strings should stay in place without the pins.

View attachment 103814

You just need to give it up. There are thousands of Kanilea's out there with bridge pins that work perfectly.
 
You just need to give it up. There are thousands of Kanilea's out there with bridge pins that work perfectly.

Give up what. There are thousands of ukuleles out there with bride pins that aren't slotted like the Kanilea's so you need to be clear on what you are talking about.

If you advise someone that the way you do things with your Kanilea works and they don't have the same slot in the bridge pin hole then it won't work for them and the advice will be incorrect.

Its good to now know how the Kanilea works so I now understand others point of view but not every bride pin design is the same.
 
Even with slots, the pins are not just for decoration but holding the strings in place.
 
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