Eleuke neck relief

I wonder if any one could give me some advice. I have recently bought a eleuke tenor I have notice the neck has a definite curve to it. When checked with a straight edge at approximately the 10th fret there is a gap of about 1mm. I have checked this against my Mahalo U320T which seems really straight compared to the Eleuke. I have spoken to the supplier and he has assured me that this is Neck relief, and nothing to worry about. He very kindly went into some detail about this. Just to make sure, is this amount of curve in the neck normal. Sorry if this question daft, I’m just a dumb keyboard player and don’t know much about string instruments.
Thanks in advance
Kev

Ps Great site have been going on here since deciding to buy a Uke

Depending upon who you talk to, a bit of neck relief is desirable and is built into the ukulele or it happens naturally due to the string tension on the neck. One mm sounds excessive however, I think half of that is acceptable.
Also, before making any decision, you may want to check it with a precision straight edge. Most rulers are not straight.

Go to a shop and compare it with others of the same type. Eleuke has terrible quality controls and their instruments are very inconsistant from one to the next. If it's out of whack then ask for a replacement.

How high is the action? Any buzzes anywhere?

Bill Cumpiano is a very well respected guitar builder and has long been the "gp to" guy when problems occur and questions come up. He is the author of "Guitarmaking: and has this to say about fretboard relief:

GETTING RELIEF

"When comparing the perfectly straight, stretched string to the fretboard surface (the surface determined by the tops of all the frets), the difference shows up right in the middle as "relief": that is, what actually needs to be adjusted by tightening or loosening the rod’s nut. No relief, that is, the string pressing directly on the frets in the middle, betrays either of two incorrect situations: a perfectly straight fretboard surface, or a fretboard surface which is bent back. A back-bent fretboard results from either an over tightened truss-rod nut, or (heavens!) a permanently kinked neck-shaft.

What you want to see, however, is a minute amount of "relief," or clearance space, between the string and the fret right at the midpoint between the first and twelfth frets. If you can measure it, it should be:

Electric guitar: 1/64"

Acoustic guitar: 1/32" to 3/64"

Electric bass: 3/64"

But I don't measure it. Those dimensions have become so familiar to my eye, they're like old friends. The precise amount is not crucial, believe me. I just look at the space and image a paper's thickness in there (electric guitar=tissue paper; acoustic guitar=typing paper; bass=stiff card stock).

With the strings up to tension, loosen or tighten the truss-rod nut until you achieve the proper relief. On double-rod systems, such as those on Guild jumbo 12-string guitars or Rickenbacker electrics (assuming they’re operating as they should) always aim for a hair more relief on the bass side. Turn the truss-rod nut no more than one-eighth to one-quarter turn at a time. In between turns, coax the neck in the desired direction by pressing it over your knee – firmly, but gently – once or twice before rechecking."



Now remember he is talking about a guitar scale which is about half again as long as a tenor uke scale so his measurements will be greater than ours. Also ignore any mention of adjustments, since few, if any ukulele necks are adjustable.
Hopefully you've learned something about neck relief. If more manufacturers took the time to take into consideration that nylon strings vibrate in an arc when strummed, there would be a lot fewer questions about string buzzing on this forum.

Thanks

Many thanks to all for such quick replies, and great advice. The action does seem to get higher towards the bridge, but no buzzes. Will possibly stick with the Instrument for now. Though I think I may have a marginally duff one, it has a year’s guarantee on it so will keep a close eye on it, and return to the manufacture if necessary, later on.
Chuck I think I have an awful lot to learn, great fun though.(I like learning)
Again many thanks
Kev

Moore Bettah Ukuleles said:

...it happens naturally due to the string tension on the neck...

Click to expand...

Well, that shouldn't be an issue for a ukulele, even a tenor. The pressure (according to this site) is only 39 lbs. That's less than half of what it is on a classical guitar (86 lbs). Shouldn't be enough to warp a neck.

It could mean the heel was not properly joined to the uke body and as a result the neck is canted slightly upwards.

The Eleuke is a mass produced instrument, made down to a price. There is absolutely no possibility that they are made to have a precise degree of curvature in the neck. You MIGHT get that with a very expensive hand-made uke, but most ukes (regardless of price) are made with the frets flat and level.

So what you have is a warped neck. It might not have an adverse effect on the way the uke plays, it might not get any worse, but 1mm is a lot. I would be very suspicious of it.

If that music shop salesman tries to convince you that it is a deliberate and intentional feature of the construction, then produce your straight edge and ask him to show you another with the same curve.

I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings, but you did ask, and this is my honest opinion.

Ukantor.

Update on neck problem

An update on the eleuke neck. The neck started to get worse, and the internet based company I had bought it from Changed the instrument without question. Bugs Gear’s support on the other hand are extremely poor they answered one email ,then after asking them a direct question is this neck warped they did not reply to any of my emails. The company I purchased the eleuke from told me that will not be in future stocking these instruments. One in three of them had to be returned because of quality problems.