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mikeyb2
03-04-2018, 05:45 AM
Just glued on a fretboard using Titebond original and there was a small area of about 2 inches that hadn't been clamped properly so a slight gap was evident. I managed to heat up the area with a clothes iron and reclamp it to eliminate the gap.
Will this remain ok or will the heat have any adverse effect on the Titebond? It does look ok, but just wondered before I go any further.
Thanks Mike.

Kekani
03-04-2018, 06:40 AM
If your intent was to reactivate the glue to make it adhesive, then your process would've worked if it was Hide Glue. Not so much with Titebond.

ProfChris
03-04-2018, 07:19 AM
Heat does reactivate Titebond to some extent but the joint is distinctly weaker. As the fretboard is unstressed, I reckon you should be OK if the gap doesn't open up within the next couple of weeks.

mikeyb2
03-04-2018, 09:03 AM
Thanks but I spoke too soon. The gap is still there, when I look more closely. The glue must have bubbled out slightly, thus filling the gap making it appear smaller. This will force me to remove the fingerboard completely and start again, which is the right thing to do anyway. Fingers crossed the board will be ok to clean up and reglue.
Another lesson learnt.

Timbuck
03-04-2018, 10:45 AM
I suspect that there was a foreign body under the fretboard in the glue that caused the problem in the first place?

mikeyb2
03-04-2018, 01:25 PM
I suspect that there was a foreign body under the fretboard in the glue that caused the problem in the first place?

It did cross my mind Ken, I suppose I might find out tomorrow, thanks.

sequoia
03-04-2018, 05:14 PM
This can occasionally happen to a small degree. (Send pictures!). I don't get this problem much anymore but it has occured. Solution: Just use some sawdust and glue mixture and work it into the void, sand out, finish and nobody will ever know except you, me, and everybody in the luthier's lounge. My Motto: Thank god for glue and sawdust. It is the "caulk and paint" trick that finish carpenters use just on a different scale. Good luck!

mikeyb2
03-05-2018, 04:02 AM
Well, I managed to remove the fingerboard ok and clean everything up and it's ready to reglue. I think the problem was caused by a slight cupping in the area of the gap, which caused the glueing face to be slightly convex. It must have cupped while it's been sitting around since it was radiussed. I planed and sanded it flat so it should be ok now.
Incidentally, I was worried that the clothes Iron might scorch the rosewood because it had not been fretted and I needed something between the iron and the wood. I didn't want to use a damp cloth as I didn't want to introduce any steam. I found the perfect solution, it was in my kitchen cupboard unused, a silicone baking tray. After experimenting with how much heat it could take, I butchered it and made a couple of oblong sheets about 8" x 4" and placed one on the board and then the iron on top. After about 3 or 4 minutes I was able to get my palette knife in there and the rest took about 15 minutes. No scorching, perfect!

printer2
03-05-2018, 05:00 AM
You butchered a baking tray? Somehow that sounds, wrong.

mikeyb2
03-05-2018, 06:13 AM
You butchered a baking tray? Somehow that sounds, wrong.

Only 2 or 3 quid(), and I've a feeling it will get more use in removing fingerboards than it ever did stuck in my cupboard!

printer2
03-06-2018, 06:43 AM
Just mixing the butchered and baking, OK I have a warped sense of humour.

Jerryc41
03-10-2018, 01:19 AM
You butchered a baking tray? Somehow that sounds, wrong.

Funny. Sounds like two shops in one.