Alulu Tenor Ukulele Kit Build

copper999

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Hi all,
As these kits have minor defects and are unfinished, for approximately £80 delivered, represented descent value.
I decided it was something that would give me a challenge to complete (hopefully to a high standard). As for the sound, i'll only know once completed.
It only took 8 days to arrive and was very well packaged. Also, I ordered some 4mm Green abalone dots for the fretboard to give it some class.
If you want a challenge, go for it.
Glenn
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I have some Alulu ukuleles and they are perfectly decent instruments for the money although not perfect. May I suggest that you measure up the instrument now to check saddle, nut and even fret placement now before you do any finishing work. If the saddle needs to be removed and repositioned do it now before working on the finish.

It wouldn't' surprise me if the nut and saddle were slightly misplaced so sort that out first.
 
You shouldn't post the same thing twice.
 
Thanks. What are the measurements please.

Well that depends on the instrument. Is the instrument a Soprano, a Concert, a tenor or a baritone? Is it built in inches or mm?

Lets say its nominally a Tenor size instrument. If it was buit in inches then 17" is standard but I've measured them at 17 1/2".

If its built in mm then 432mm is standard but sometimes its 430mm. 17" by the way is 431.8mm so figuring out if its 17" (431.8mm) or 432mm isn't always easy.

Anyway.

Actual scale length is, nominal scale length, say 17", plus saddle compensation, so, a 17" scale tenor should measure 17 3/32" or close to from the nut to the saddle.

Nominal scale length is also the distance from the nut to the centre of the 12th fret x 2. Actual scale length is the distance from the nut to the centre of the 12 fret x 2 + saddle compensation.

Still with me?

Start by measuring from the top edge of the fretboard to the centre of the 12th fret. Measure in inches and mm. Which lines up better. Say 8 1/2" or 216mm?

Is the distance from the top of the fretboard to the leading edge of the saddle slot double the distance + a fraction more for compensation?
 
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It's a tenor. Thanks for the detailed info, i'll start measuring.

Nut to 12th fret is 8 1/2". However, scale length is
16 3/4". Do I need to move the saddle back too include saddle compensation due to the scale length being what it is?
 
Nut to 12th fret is 8 1/2". However, scale length is
16 3/4". Do I need to move the saddle back too include saddle compensation due to the scale length being what it is?

Yes, you need to move it back to a fraction longer than 17". What you have measured is a COMMON mistake which is why I wanted you to measure for it before you went any further. Just to be clear, have you measure to the leading edge of the saddle slot? Not to the leading edge of the bridge itself?
 
Leading edge of the bridge itself. (hopefully I won't have to remove the bridge)? :wallbash:
 
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Leading edge of the bridge itself. (hopefully I won't have to remove the bridge)? :wallbash:

Measure to the middle of the saddle slot not the leading edge of the bridge. Should be about 3/32" longer than 17 inches to get approximate intonation compensation.
 
Thanks. Here's what my measurements are:-
nut to 12th fret =219mm
Nut to middle of saddle slot = 434mm
This equates to a difference of 4mm. Do I move the bridge back 4mm to compensate plus 3/32"?
 
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Just to make sure, are you measuring from the front of the nut? If so, then your scale length is 219 x 2 = 438 mm. Put that into the fret calculator I showed you and check all frets to make sure the fretboard is decent. If you tell the calculator it’s a ukulele it’ll give you a ballpark figure for the compensation needed.
 
434mm equals 17 3/32 which is spot on for metrically challenged people like me. Imperial sucks, but I can't help it, Im American.
 
I am unclear what's going on here and the advice being given. From the nut to the 12th fret x 2 is the scale length. The string length is usually longer than this and as someone who achieves good if not excellent intonation I can affirm that the stew mac compensation is not quite correct.

On my bridges, from the front of the 3mm saddle slot to the leading edge of the bridge is 2.8mm. Add 2.8mm to 1.5mm (the centre of the saddle slot) and you get 4.3mm which in my experience is too much compensation. What I do is make a line perpendicular to the centreline 432.5mm from the nut. This is where I place the leading edge of my bridge. Intonation is near perfect with this amount compensation. I find it easier and much more logical to work to edges I can see rather than those I cannot.

I hope you find a way to get this right as there is nothing worse than a ukulele tuned re-entrant that doesn't intonate past the 5th fret!
 
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