Using permanent gemstones on through bridges 3 ways

I mention 2 ways to do the same thing:
1-ebony bridge plate, and
2- beads
and demonstrate a 3rd way- permanent "gemstones".

All 3 ways work well, i just prefer this way.

Absolutely beautiful. Beautiful... Actually a great idea. The permanent bead... I did find my self thinking what would happen if the string glued to the gem. Would be tough to get the string back out. But it didn't happen... Also intriguing is the use of the ultra thin (carbon fiber?) bridge plate. Strong and yet oh so thin. That isn't going to wear through for sure. My only thought is how it is going to transmit vibrations. Since your ukes sound great, I guess it works just fine. Thanks Beau.

Has any one tried tiny metal washer? I think Mark Roberts does something similar with rings vs beads..

Love that rosette.

sequoia said:

Absolutely beautiful. Beautiful... Actually a great idea. The permanent bead... I did find my self thinking what would happen if the string glued to the gem. Would be tough to get the string back out. But it didn't happen... Also intriguing is the use of the ultra thin (carbon fiber?) bridge plate. Strong and yet oh so thin. That isn't going to wear through for sure. My only thought is how it is going to transmit vibrations. Since your ukes sound great, I guess it works just fine. Thanks Beau.

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I mention in the video that I push the string in and out a few times to make sure the string does get glued to the gemstone etc. You just have to use minimal gel ca glue- but it has happened to me before- just drill it out and move on.
Alot of classical guitars (and lutes/ouds etc) don't use any kind of bridge plate, therefore ukes (which have half the string tension of a classical guitar) don't need bridge plates, but i've always used one.
I'm going to try a top without one one day.

kerneltime said:

Has any one tried tiny metal washer? I think Mark Roberts does something similar with rings vs beads..

Click to expand...

Not sure what Mark does but anything similar would work, just as long as the hole is as small as possible (if its permanently fixed).
For a few ukes I used ebony disks- which are like flat beads- they basically acted like these gemstones but were not permanent.
Thing is, customers (and luthiers) lose beads etc that is why I like the permanent gemstones- one could also glue in ebony disks of similar size (these gemstones are 8mm).

printer2 said:

Love that rosette.

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Thanks - Spalted maple and buck eye burl- with a touch of paua.

Beau Hannam Ukuleles said:

Not sure what Mark does but anything similar would work, just as long as the hole is as small as possible (if its permanently fixed).
For a few ukes I used ebony disks- which are like flat beads- they basically acted like these gemstones but were not permanent.
Thing is, customers (and luthiers) lose beads etc that is why I like the permanent gemstones- one could also glue in ebony disks of similar size (these gemstones are 8mm).

Click to expand...

Would adding weight via a metal disk improve the sustain? Seems like a good experiment to run (if there is any measurable difference..)

kerneltime said:

Would adding weight via a metal disk improve the sustain? Seems like a good experiment to run (if there is any measurable difference..)

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I think of adding weight to a top akin to a heat sink for vibration, but for tone/vol/sustain etc.
A top needs correct stiffness, but with minimal weight- any fool can glue a chuck on wood to a top and call it good (factories).
A luthier however takes time to balance the top's stiffness (thickness), with brace dimensions and/vs brace stiffness.

eg- if your bridge was made of lead, it wouldn't be good...it would be a "heat sink" for vibrations.

the worst thing is a wiehgty thing that is also not stiff- so if you had a rubber bridge--- it would absorb ALL the vibration.

Marks little metal washers wouldn't be anything to worry about (or make any difference to tone)- much like beads or gemstones.

Beau Hannam Ukuleles said:

I think of adding weight to a top akin to a heat sink for vibration, but for tone/vol/sustain etc.
A top needs correct stiffness, but with minimal weight- any fool can glue a chuck on wood to a top and call it good (factories).
A luthier however takes time to balance the top's stiffness (thickness), with brace dimensions and/vs brace stiffness.

eg- if your bridge was made of lead, it wouldn't be good...it would be a "heat sink" for vibrations.

the worst thing is a wiehgty thing that is also not stiff- so if you had a rubber bridge--- it would absorb ALL the vibration.

Marks little metal washers wouldn't be anything to worry about (or make any difference to tone)- much like beads or gemstones.

Click to expand...

Got it, thanks!

This picture illustrates the result better