ChuckBarnett
Well-known member
I got the thing boxed in!!
Now addressing binding and I have some questions as I research how to go about this.
I've no need to consider speed given that 'production' isn't a concept I've any clue about thus far. I have a Bosch laminate router and tilt base. I figure on buying a bit and some bearings (2 is all I need at this point...) and doing the hand-held method. Yes??
Question 1: Are bearings sold by Stew/Mac, LMI, etc. interchangeable with binding cutter routing bits?
Question 2: Do you/should I used a 'gramil' tool to score the edges of channels before routing them? (In this case I am working on a redwood top and quilted maple sides/back.)
Question 3: The sides are not perfectly round in places -my hand finds out-of-round spots. And there is roughness that somehow should be reduced? Else the bearing cannot be expected to produce a nice channel, no? Not sure how to address this.
Question 4: It looks like the back somehow protrudes longer at the bottom end than the top. This makes the angle between back and sides at the end wedge less than 90°, and it is obvious to the eye. Is this fixable? I’d think it would affect binding.
Question 5: The Koa binding I've made varies in thickness from .057 to .062 inch. I used a drum sander to reduce it down by taping all 4 strips onto MDF (leaving 1/4" or so between. I cleaned up bandsaw marks and flipped them over to do the other side. I plan to install them deep and bring the sides to the bindings rather than scrape/sand the bindings to the sides. Will this much variation work?
Blessings to any and all who believe there is hope for me!
Now addressing binding and I have some questions as I research how to go about this.
I've no need to consider speed given that 'production' isn't a concept I've any clue about thus far. I have a Bosch laminate router and tilt base. I figure on buying a bit and some bearings (2 is all I need at this point...) and doing the hand-held method. Yes??
Question 1: Are bearings sold by Stew/Mac, LMI, etc. interchangeable with binding cutter routing bits?
Question 2: Do you/should I used a 'gramil' tool to score the edges of channels before routing them? (In this case I am working on a redwood top and quilted maple sides/back.)
Question 3: The sides are not perfectly round in places -my hand finds out-of-round spots. And there is roughness that somehow should be reduced? Else the bearing cannot be expected to produce a nice channel, no? Not sure how to address this.
Question 4: It looks like the back somehow protrudes longer at the bottom end than the top. This makes the angle between back and sides at the end wedge less than 90°, and it is obvious to the eye. Is this fixable? I’d think it would affect binding.
Question 5: The Koa binding I've made varies in thickness from .057 to .062 inch. I used a drum sander to reduce it down by taping all 4 strips onto MDF (leaving 1/4" or so between. I cleaned up bandsaw marks and flipped them over to do the other side. I plan to install them deep and bring the sides to the bindings rather than scrape/sand the bindings to the sides. Will this much variation work?
Blessings to any and all who believe there is hope for me!