Friction tuners

Any tips for getting friction tuners to behave? I tried adjusting the screws, but that didn't make any difference. I like the ukulele, but rarely play it because it feels hopeless when it comes to tuning it.

Hi Joyful, for what it's worth, here's a copy of some thoughts I offered a couple of years ago to fellow Forum member "Fuzzbass"...

"Fuzz, what I generally do with the frictions, as a preliminary, is to try to get a feel for an optimal "tightness" of the four adjustment screws. I'll take my screwdriver, slowly turn counter-clockwise to loosen each screw just to the threshhold where the peg wants to start rotating backwards by itself, and then give the screw just enough of a clockwise turn to keep the peg from starting that backwards rotation; once you have all four pegs at that "almost-too-loose" threshold, go back and give each adjustment screw a little more of a clockwise turn, just to the point where it's clear that each peg will hold firmly. After a while, you'll be able to feel the sensation of having each adjustment screw tightened to approximately equal tightness. Sometimes I'll come back and re-check just to see if the resistance seems about equal on each screw when I apply the screwdriver; if one screw turns too easily compared to the others, I'll give it a little extra boost (tighter). You want the pegs to be a little tight (firm) to turn, but not ridiculously so. Then, as for doing your actual tuning of the uke, I've had good luck beginning with a slight "reverse" turn of the peg to flatten the note first, which seems to provide a nice pivot from which to then give it a "forward" turn to slowly bring it up to the desired pitch. Often the friction pegs can be tricky to fine-tune from their "resting" position, so that initial little pivot (with the slight flattening) comes in handy. It's definitely an inexact science, but after a while you'll kind of develop your own personal approach!"

I recently bought a used Fluke with Gotoh friction tuners (my first ones) that were well out of adjustment, one would not even stay in place. I tightened the screws too tight and had a tough time turning them. I've been fiddling with them (maybe I should have said ukeing with them), but haven't found the sweet spot. I'm actually thinking of replacing them with angled geared tuners, but I would have to modify them, or wait to see if Graph Tech is going to bring out a set of their new Ratio Tune-a-lele geared that fits the Fluke. I tried a set of their prototypes and they worked very well.

http://www.graphtech.com/products/brands/ratio/ratio-tune-a-lele-for-ukulele

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9 tenor cutaway ukes, 5 acoustic bass ukes, 11 solid body bass ukes, 8 mini electric bass guitars (Total: 33)

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Is the uke humidified? If the headstock gets dry enough the holes won't hold the tuner bodies tight.

Has a humidifier in the case, and is in a room with a room humidifier. Humidity gauges give good reading.

I don't think I'll be taking things apart. I don't even know what a spanner is, LOL, so I probably shouldn't try using one.

But, maybe I'll take it in somewhere, and see if they can improve it. I think they are Grover tuners, if that makes a difference.

Meanwhile maybe I'll get the screwdriver out again, (I know what that is, at least, LOL), and play around with it like Bill suggested initially.
There definitely isn't enough friction.

The Gotoh Planetary Ukulele Tuners make a great replacement for fiction tuners: similar look and weight but with 1:4 gears, very stable and never need adjustment. I have them on two of my instruments and am never going back to fiction tuners.

Seriously...be warned I am not now or ever will be a "traditionalist" as in use what the ancients used, I replace with geared tuners and never look back. I have never regretted the change. Why fight with tuning? Don't shoot me...I am just the ukulele player. I also shoot back.

gochugogi said:

The Gotoh Planetary Ukulele Tuners make a great replacement for fiction tuners: similar look and weight but with 1:4 gears, very stable and never need adjustment. I have them on two of my instruments and am never going back to fiction tuners.

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The holes do have to be reamed out to a slightly larger size. If you don't know that a spanner is a crescent wrench (not an adjustable crescent wrench) then do not attempt this yourself. Take it to a guitar or ukulele shop or luthier and have them install them. It's worth the money of roughly $25 to 40. Maybe have them check your setup while they have it.

My top tip is, when replacing the strings, don't trim them off completely at the peg, but leave an inch or so "tail". This can be used as a visual indicator when making really fine adjustments to turning.

Thanks for all the input.

I think I'll ultimately try to find someone who can replace the tuners, but until then, I'll keep fighting with it.

Is this something that a Sam Ash or Guitar Center can do, or do I need to find someone who knows more about ukuleles?

Bill1 said:

Pull them off the headstock, taking some photos so you know how they go back on. Clean all the metal parts and don't lubricate, no oil. Check the bits which seat the tuners in the hole. While they are off, give the head stock a clean up as well, being careful of transfer type labels. Usually you need a screwdriver and a 10mm spanner and a jar for the parts, don't use an adjustable spanner.
While the tuner knobs are off, sand off any rough join marks and give them a polish.
Then re-assemble.
Friction tuners are very simple, they slip when there is not enough friction, so you are looking to get rid of causes of low friction. Also they need to be seated properly, so the seating hardware has to be right as well.
Note that there is a difference between a spanner and a spanner in the USA and Australia. In Australia a spanner is what is called a wrench in the USA. It is not adjustable and is made to exactly fit the nut. In Australia the adjustable spanner which was made famous by the Crescent company is called a Crescent or an adjustable spanner. It can have a sloppy grip and bur the nut, so don't use it on your ukuleles. Many of the tuning machines I have on instruments use a 10mm nut to hold the tuning machine in place, it needs to be removed to take the locating hardware off the headstock.

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Very good advice.

Joyful Uke said:

Thanks for all the input.

I think I'll ultimately try to find someone who can replace the tuners, but until then, I'll keep fighting with it.

Is this something that a Sam Ash or Guitar Center can do, or do I need to find someone who knows more about ukuleles?

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There must be music stores and uke sellers within driving distance. I suppose Sam or Guitar have experience working on ukes, but maybe not. If anyone in your area give ukulele lessons, he should know who could do the work.

Jerryc41 said:

There must be music stores and uke sellers within driving distance. I suppose Sam or Guitar have experience working on ukes, but maybe not. If anyone in your area give ukulele lessons, he should know who could do the work.

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Not that I know of. There used to be a place about an hour away, but they stopped selling ukuleles and the person who knew ukes has moved to the west coast.

I tried a place that seemed to have a good reputation for repairs to fix one ukulele, and after 6 weeks for a very minor fix, I got back a ukulele that was slightly improved but not fixed. I gave up and sold that one to Elderly, so they could fix it and resell it. I suppose I could ship this one off to Elderly to replace the tuners and ship it back to me, but that's going to get expensive.

So, it might have to be Sam Ash or Guitar Center, or I keep fighting with the tuners.

Any luthier that has experience replacing tuners on a banjo or guitar should be able to replace the tuners on an ukulele. The friction tuners on my ukulele had worked for years, but then one of the tuners would no longer stay in tune, I could not tighten them. I had the tuners replaced with geared tuners. New tuners, strings and labour cost me less than $50. This should not be an expensive repair.

Lacole said:

Any luthier that has experience replacing tuners on a banjo or guitar should be able to replace the tuners on an ukulele. The friction tuners on my ukulele had worked for years, but then one of the tuners would no longer stay in tune, I could not tighten them. I had the tuners replaced with geared tuners. New tuners, strings and labour cost me less than $50. This should not be an expensive repair.

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That's good to hear. I've been googling, and have a couple places I'll talk to, and see if I can make this happen. Seems like the best option.

Ask them if they have experience changing tuners. Swapping out friction tuners for UPTs. Ask what all is involved. How long it will take, and how much it will cost.

If they don't know that they have to ream the holes to slightly enlarge them, or they don't know there are two left-hand and two right-hand threaded tuners, go elsewhere.

Kenn2018 said:

Ask them if they have experience changing tuners. Swapping out friction tuners for UPTs. Ask what all is involved. How long it will take, and how much it will cost.

If they don't know that they have to ream the holes to slightly enlarge them, or they don't know there are two left-hand and two right-hand threaded tuners, go elsewhere.

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Thanks. Since I know nothing about it all, this helps a lot.

kohanmike said:

...wait to see if Graph Tech is going to bring out a set of their new Ratio Tune-a-lele geared that fits the Fluke. I tried a set of their prototypes and they worked very well.

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I have to correct myself, I was wrong about the measurements of the Ratio Tele-uke tuners, the spool is 23.75mm/.935" long, which will just fit a Fluke. Looking forward to getting a set.

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9 tenor cutaway ukes, 5 acoustic bass ukes, 11 solid body bass ukes, 8 mini electric bass guitars (Total: 33)

• Donate to The Ukulele Kids Club, they provide ukuleles to children in hospital music therapy programs. www.theukc.org
• Member The CC Strummers: YouTube: www.youtube.com/user/CCStrummers/video, Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheCCStrummers