Go-bar Clamping rods - wood dowels?

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Steve-atl

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Will wood dowels work as Go-bar clamping rods?

Stewmac's are $6.25. Seem expensive. Granger has fiberglass rods but does not keep them in stock locally. It seems like the 1/4 dowels would work especially if I can find a source for those little rubber tips.

Thanks
 
I use fiberglass rods from a hobby shop.
In Oz we used bamboo sticks.
Whatever works works :)
 
UU won't allow me to post the link because it says it's spam. So google Blues Creek Guitar for a cheap source of fiberglass rods.
 
I use fiberglass rods from a kite supply company. they came 4 foot long. I cut them in half. They weren't all that expensive. Tha name of the company is Goodwinds.
 
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I've used oak with cork ends for years. I mill them into a slightly rectangular shape so that they bend in a particular direction. I made a foray into fiberglas rods a couple of years ago, but I did not like them. They were too non directional and were, for me, difficult to use. Wood dowels did not work for me either. Always interested in a better way, I'm working on an idea for spring loaded bars that were suggested to me by another forum user. We used those when I took a class in Spain in 2001, but I kind of blew off the idea. It was recently presented to me again, and I'm going to check it out this time.
 
I've seen people use, for lack of a better term, flat wood sticks. super cheap.

The flatness would be great to stop the twisting that always happens (to me anyway).

The Stewmac rods seem to be flat fiberglass sticks- now I want flat sticks!

Screen Shot 2019-03-07 at 3.21.01 PM.jpg
 
Pegasus Guitars said:
I've used oak with cork ends for years. I mill them into a slightly rectangular shape so that they bend in a particular direction. I made a foray into fiberglas rods a couple of years ago, but I did not like them. They were too non directional and were, for me, difficult to use. Wood dowels did not work for me either. Always interested in a better way, I'm working on an idea for spring loaded bars that were suggested to me by another forum user. We used those when I took a class in Spain in 2001, but I kind of blew off the idea. It was recently presented to me again, and I'm going to check it out this time.
Click to expand...

I used spring loaded for years. Drill out a larger dowel, with a spring inside and the smaller, longer dowel goes inside. Thread dental floss to keep it together, because I was too lazy to drill for sugi.

Threw them all away once I made my vacuum press.
 
That sounds like a good idea. Post it here when you figure it out
 
Beau Hannam Ukuleles said:
I've seen people use, for lack of a better term, flat wood sticks. super cheap.

The flatness would be great to stop the twisting that always happens (to me anyway).

The Stewmac rods seem to be flat fiberglass sticks- now I want flat sticks!
Click to expand...

You might try looking for pultruded fiberglass batten material, and see if you can find something that will suit you. There are usually soft endcaps made for them so they don't damage the sail pocket.
 
I use driveway reflective markers I got at Home Depot. I cut them to fit my go deck. Go to the wire shelf section and get the rubber tips that fit on the ends. Have never figured out what to do with the left over reflectors though.
 

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I love it!... Improvisation is part of ukulele building. Now as what to do with the left over bits? Don't have a clue, but I'm sure you will come up with something.
 
Here is what I showed to the Kauai builders group last week. The materials are a 5’ length of 1/2” pex tubing, 7/16” wood dowel, 1/8” brass rod for the spring stop and assorted compression springs of the appropriate diameter and length. The pics should explain how to assemble. You can make 10 of them in about 30 minutes at a cost of around one dollar each. You insert spacer dowels in the top to adjust the length. The advantage is they don’t break, no mine field effect and the go bar deck can be quite small.
Brad
 

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Aaron- I agree that the vacuum press is slick and I have the gear to do it. However, my building schedule is too chaotic to use one. Going too many directions at once. --Bob
 
I dont use a go-bar deck any more it takes up too much space, I just use spring clamps on a ukulele shaped backing board.
 
I have been using fiberglass driveway markers as well but I found some near those with reflectors (mentioned above) that have no reflector......Some are orange & others are yellow...There is like a reflective stripe or something on them and a soft rubbery foot on one end....they were like $0.30 each and are still going strong years later....

However, if I were to do it again, I like the function of the dowel, spring and tube method that some here have mentioned as they can go straight up and down with no wonky bending...It is really not a problem it is just something you have to get used to as they can bend in ways that then make you have to adjust during your open time....

For me the next best thing to that would then be the flat wood or fiberglass as it is only going to bend one way or the other.


Either way you choose to go I like the simple elegance of Go Bar systems....

By the way: one side of my shop has a lower ceiling and I use it as the top of my go bar deck and my bench as the bottom as it takes up a lot less space....just something to consider it you have a similar situation or want to make a similar situation our of strategically placing a high shelf or something you can use that way
 
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Timbuck said:
I dont use a go-bar deck any more it takes up too much space, I just use spring clamps on a ukulele shaped backing board.
Click to expand...

I'm with Ken. Gobar decks are a royal PITA. When Huss & Dalton first let me brace plates I immediately dismantled the vacuum press because it was so slow. They still use the clamping presses I slapped together more than 20 years ago, though Dean Jones has heavily modified and improved them since he took over bracing. I wish I had a picture of them. Anyhow, here's a pic of the way I brace in my shop. When not in use there is almost nothing to store away. As you might guess, bracing tops is a two-step process. Backs can be braced in one shot.
 

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Pegasus Guitars said:
Aaron- I agree that the vacuum press is slick and I have the gear to do it. However, my building schedule is too chaotic to use one. Going too many directions at once. --Bob
Click to expand...
Funny, the vacuum press process is so much faster. Joe Souza told me he doesn’t leave it in the press that long, from a production perspective, I believe it was 7-10 minutes? Don’t quote me on that. I recently did my first back with hhg, and this is the first time I’ve ever gotten the center strips to hold the radius shape. Cross bracing no problem.

I started doing what John does before vacuum, Except I have cauls specifically for braces so I’m not pressing right on the braces, and I can use less cam clamps. Fast. And WAY more pressure than sticks.
 
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