inlay a signature?

I thought it might be fun to try a signature or logo inlay.

I don’t think I have the ability to do it freehand consistently.

In the YouTube video, I posted the guy is using some white material as a template. Have any idea what that is. Looks like he can form it to any shape he wants

Any other ideas on how this might be done consistently?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdcas3-wcQ4

It look to me like he's tracing the actual inlay. The notes say the inlay came from www.mopsupplies.com

He's tracing the actual inlay it looks to me, which is the standard procedure for people doing it free hand. Doing an inlay in Ebony gives you lots of room for error as gluing in place with black tinted epoxy or CA makes the inlay look perfect.

IMO the best way to do a hand cut signature/logo on a new build is to double cut it. I've done many signatures and most of my inlay that way. For a uke you will need a 5" saw frame and an 8" one or larger for guitars. You could use the swivel saw frame from Knew Concepts and probably do guitars with a 5" frame, but I prefer sawing straight ahead with standard Knew Concept frames. Inlaying into ebony is the standard way to avoid having to be precise, but if the cavity is not a very good fit the filler will become visible in time. I don't use ebony. Most of my inlay is in koa and double cutting is much more exacting and far faster for me than trying to route the cavity. I know that there are some people who do a pretty good with the routing technique, but I only use it as a last resort. I do have to use it for fretboard inlay, which I try to avoid. For headstocks you just glue or use transfer tape to apply your pattern onto the pearl or whatever, double stick the pearl onto the faceplate before it is on the neck, drill a hole for a usually 2/0 blade, and cut the logo/signature and the cavity in the wood at the same time. Glue the pearl into the cavity on the faceplate, sand it both sides and glue it onto the headstock. Done.

That's a great idea. I'll try that next time I make up neck.

Here's a more detailed example of the kind of thing Bob is talking about: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/double-bevel-artistry-2/ The key is to have an angle to the cut that is suitable for the material thickness and saw kerf width - a couple practice cuts will confirm you're set up right,

John

Thanks that helps

You're probably not going to go off and buy a $1000.00 scroll saw. it needs to be a very good saw to do fine inlay work with pearl. I rarely use mine. That article is a good take on the process. No need to worry too much about the angle of the saw blade when doing handsawing of small inlay in thin stock. Just a slight tilt off vertical toward the outside of the inlay is fine. Sometimes, on really fine lines you will have to saw vertically. It's fun. Can be kind of hard on the eyes, even with lots of magnification, if you're older like me.

Pegasus Guitars said:

You're probably not going to go off and buy a $1000.00 scroll saw. it needs to be a very good saw to do fine inlay work with pearl. I rarely use mine. That article is a good take on the process. No need to worry too much about the angle of the saw blade when doing handsawing of small inlay in thin stock. Just a slight tilt off vertical toward the outside of the inlay is fine. Sometimes, on really fine lines you will have to saw vertically. It's fun. Can be kind of hard on the eyes, even with lots of magnification, if you're older like me.

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Yes, a $1000.00 scroll saw is not in the budget It does seem a little overkill for a small fretboard inlay.