Wanted: Clear, Adhesive, Non-Damaging Pickguard Material

Jerryc41

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I'd like to put transparent adhesive plastic on the top of a uke or two to prevent the tops from getting scratched by my fingernails. My Fluke is already showing marks above and below the strings, and I'd like to keep it from getting worse. I have a couple of Martin sopranos I'd like to keep from getting worse, too.

I was thinking of something like they use for LCD protectors. They stick, but they can be peeled off easily.

EDIT: I'm going to order this pair of two.
https://smile.amazon.com/amFilm-Scr...d+5)&qid=1558122072&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull
 
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Why not try contact paper? Cheap, and easy to use. It peels off cleanly from glass when I’ve used it in etching projects. You could cut it to just the shape you want to cover if you don’t want it on the rest of the soundboard.
 
Why not try contact paper? Cheap, and easy to use. It peels off cleanly from glass when I’ve used it in etching projects. You could cut it to just the shape you want to cover if you don’t want it on the rest of the soundboard.

I want something clear, and I'm afraid of what contact would do to the surface. I should get these sheets on Tuesday.
 
I want something clear, and I'm afraid of what contact would do to the surface. I should get these sheets on Tuesday.

Sounds good. They definitely don't leave a residue. Good research. I should put them on my "list"
 
I want something clear, and I'm afraid of what contact would do to the surface. I should get these sheets on Tuesday.

I didn’t know you could get non-clear contact paper. I’ve only ever worked with clear. Perhaps you meant you want something that is nearly invisible to the eye? If so, you’re right, contact paper isn’t perfectly seethrough from an opacity standpoint.

You may be right on the adhesive residue left behind, though. Glass is one thing, but vintage wood is another altogether.
 
I didn’t know you could get non-clear contact paper. I’ve only ever worked with clear. Perhaps you meant you want something that is nearly invisible to the eye? If so, you’re right, contact paper isn’t perfectly seethrough from an opacity standpoint.

You may be right on the adhesive residue left behind, though. Glass is one thing, but vintage wood is another altogether.

We must be talking about two different things. I mean the stuff that's used for lining a shelf, etc.
 
Definitely keep us updated on how it works Jerry. I've been thinking of something like this for my new Blackbird Clara. It's the first uke I've owned that I notice the sound of my fingers on the top when I strum. I'm trying very hard not to graze the sound board with my nails. I think a protector like you're getting would deaden the noise and protect the top as well.
 
Definitely keep us updated on how it works Jerry. I've been thinking of something like this for my new Blackbird Clara. It's the first uke I've owned that I notice the sound of my fingers on the top when I strum. I'm trying very hard not to graze the sound board with my nails. I think a protector like you're getting would deaden the noise and protect the top as well.

Funny - I took a clawhammer workshop, and the instructor emphasized bringing the fingers down hard on top of the uke. No one wanted to do that.
 
Funny - I took a clawhammer workshop, and the instructor emphasized bringing the fingers down hard on top of the uke. No one wanted to do that.
There's something about the surface material of the Clara that has a scratchy sound to it with even the slightest brush of nails. I'm hoping that a clear protector will tame that, plus protect the surface.
 
We must be talking about two different things. I mean the stuff that's used for lining a shelf, etc.

Nope, same stuff. I think you may just be able to buy some that has patterns. I only ever used the clear stuff, as it made a great masking material when putting custom etching onto glass. Cut out your design either before or after applying to the area you want to apply etching cream using an Xacto blade, apply etching cream, wipe clean and peel off contact paper.

I've also used the clear stuff as a way to preserve the covers of paperback books, though it is not easily removed once applied.
https://www.wikihow.com/Cover-a-Book-with-Contact-Paper

Like I said earlier after you voiced some concern, I think it may tack differently to glass than to wood or paper.
 
Live and learn. I think that would be too sticky for a wooden uke, though. It would be ironic if something intended to protect the uke damaged it.

Too true. I was reading up more on it since I’d gotten curious, and I guess you can remove it from wood if you heat it with a blow drier first, and then scrape off any residual adhesive. That would work for old vintage ukuleles, right? :p
 
Too true. I was reading up more on it since I’d gotten curious, and I guess you can remove it from wood if you heat it with a blow drier first, and then scrape off any residual adhesive. That would work for old vintage ukuleles, right? :p

Yeah, sure. I'll make a video of me heating a KoAloha or Kamaka and using a putty knife to scrape it clean. I think someone would put out a contract on me. :eek:
 
I dont know if this has been mentioned yet, but there is an abundance of purpose-made pickguards available on eBay and Amazon. Just search pickguard or something, and you get a plastic pickguard with an adhesive backing.

If a guitar one is too big, you can cut it to size using scissors.

They are generally removable without damage to surface.. but I find this to be somewhat irrelevant as after installing, it becomes a somewhat permanent part of the instrument.
 
I dont know if this has been mentioned yet, but there is an abundance of purpose-made pickguards available on eBay and Amazon. Just search pickguard or something, and you get a plastic pickguard with an adhesive backing.

If a guitar one is too big, you can cut it to size using scissors.

They are generally removable without damage to surface.. but I find this to be somewhat irrelevant as after installing, it becomes a somewhat permanent part of the instrument.

Yes, I saw them, but they are too big and too obvious. I want invisible, removable protection. I'd be concerned about how removable they are.

I suspect the LCD protectors I'm getting will be too easily removable, especially on wood, but I'll have to wait till Tuesday to find out.
 
Yes, I saw them, but they are too big and too obvious. I want invisible, removable protection. I'd be concerned about how removable they are.

I suspect the LCD protectors I'm getting will be too easily removable, especially on wood, but I'll have to wait till Tuesday to find out.


There are transparent versions of the guitar pickguards, just so you know.

I have actually used the LCD protectors on my Risa electric ukulele in the past.
It worked and was safely removable. But it may be more of a challenge cutting it into an aesthetically pleasing shape.

Either way works - perhaps LCD protector adhesive is a tad softer than the guitar pickguard type.
 
When I bought a used MyaMoe koa tenor ukulele it came with a clear mylar pick guard on it. It is so clear, it’s hard to see that it’s even there.

Brian, the person I bought the uke from, said that he and several people at the Reno Uke Group he belongs to, buy the self-adhesive mylar material from StewMac and then has a local luthier, Terry Webb of Sundance Guitars, install it on the instrument. It looks excellent and protects the wood of the top.

He also told me that the luthier can also remove the material without problems. I can’t vouch for that, because I haven’t had one removed.

www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Pickguard_Materials/Clear_Pickguard_Materials_Set_of_4.html

StewMac charges $20 for a pack of 4. Plus shipping.

Here's a photo he sent me showing the pickguard. There is a VERY fine, light line going from the top edge of the bridge to the right edge of the uke. It's trimmed around the rosette and extends upwards to about 1/4" of the top edge of the bout following the curve of the right side down to the horizontal line from the bridge.

MM Uke Body Pickguard.jpg
 
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