Painting a Ukulele

I am having a friend paint a scene on a Fluke. From what I've read, it should first be coated with gesso, and then painted with acrylic. The artist is wondering if there is any type of acrylic that is better than another or if it needs a clear coat on top of the paint.

Obviously, I am having it painted for appearance, not to enhance the sound. I suspect the paint could affect the sound, but I'm not a performer or recording artist, so that doesn't matter.

I'd appreciate any input.

FYI -
https://flukeandflea.tumblr.com/

I painted a Dolphin, using water based acrylics. My base layer was rattle can primer, then color acrylics, and finally a water based clear coat. I kept the paint thin enough to not effect the sound, but the clear coat was a mistake. It wore off on my arm. Hopefully someone can recommend a proper clear that will play nicely with acrylics underneath.

Maybe contact https://paintedukuleles.com She has painted countless instruments with some amazing designs

Gesso is a primer used to prepare linen or Masonite boards for painting. If I remember correctly, it was suggested that you roughen the smooth side of the Masonite with some sandpaper to give the Gesso something to adhere to. Then the acrylics adhered to the Gesso primer.

I don't know what finish is on the tiops of the Fluke, but if it's a gloss lacquer it might need to be roughened as well. Water based acrylics don't adhere to lacquers. Without a Gesso or primer and some surface prep, the acrylics might peel off.

It's like trying to repaint a car with acrylic paint over an enamel or lacquer-based original paint. It won't adhere properly without surface prep and a primer.

But this is based upon information gained 30 plus years ago. Things may have changed.

I wonder what would happen if coated in plasti-dip, like some people do to their cars (yes, that's a thing, or was)

badhabits said:

I wonder what would happen if coated in plasti-dip, like some people do to their cars (yes, that's a thing, or was)

Click to expand...

It would definitely cut down on the vibration-ability, but if you're dipping it in plastic, then sound is secondary. There's nothing with looks over sound. Take my license plate uke, for example. It sounds fine, but no one would want to use it for a professional recording recording.

I'll bet that if you called the Magic Fluke people , they would know exactly how to do it .
Check their website , they will do it for you.

Pukulele Pete said:

I'll bet that if you called the Magic Fluke people , they would know exactly how to do it .
Check their website , they will do it for you.

Click to expand...

Yes, they're excellent.

Jerryc41 said:

It would definitely cut down on the vibration-ability, but if you're dipping it in plastic, then sound is secondary. There's nothing with looks over sound. Take my license plate uke, for example. It sounds fine, but no one would want to use it for a professional recording recording.

Click to expand...

FYI, you don't actually dip large items, its also available as a spray-on application. And it is a rubbery material (think handles of pliers and such), so yeah, sound/vibration is likely reduced