Labels

What do the pros use for labels, is it a special paper or standard paper, gummed back or what. Can I make it on my printer and spray it with something to make it water proof?

Mike

Why do you need it waterproof?

I bought some archival paper from an art supply store, printed it out with black archival laser toner ink (most inkjet inks aren't archival, and will fade over time), and then spread a THIN layer of glue on the entire back of it, and pressed it into place with wax paper. Worked like a charm - I was so nervous about it, but it was easy as pie.

Good luck,
John

I don't know the specific paper weight, but our stickers are paper based, with a PSA adhesive backing. They come with a crack and peel wax paper on the back. The front is sprayed over with a thin layer of uv cured finish, but they aren't waterproof.

I had to make a few mock up custom labels a couple of times and I used some sample paper stock from our printer. From what I understand, they can jam up the rollers in laser printers. The heat generated from applying the toner makes the adhesive leak from the sides and stick to the rollers. I only had to run a few sheets, so I chanced it and ran it through the printer.

If you want to run something on your home printer, I'm sure you'll be fine. I would imagine you can get good results by using some low sheen photograph paper. It's heavier stock than plain printer paper, which looks classier, as a label. You will have to experiment with coatings, but I think spray can laquer will do the trick. Couple things to be careful of. The solvents in the laquer may cause the ink to bleed and/or the shrinking laquer may cause the label to curl. If bleeding is a problem, you can try doing what's called a tack coat. Before spraying the actual top coat on the label, give it a really thin coat and let that dry. The idea is to create a thin enough layer that won't bleed the ink. When it's dry, it should provide enough protection from the subsequent coat, preventing or minimizing the bleeding effect. We use this trick when people have a famous signature on their uke and want it sprayed over. Even fully cured Sharpie ink bleeds, when shot directly over. If you can find polyurethane spray can laquer in your area, even better. Poly chemically cures, opposed to nitrocellulose. The tack coat will provide better protection with the resistance of the poly. To fight the curling, you can either live with it, or make the label oversized and tack it down to a flat surface. Let the spray dry for a day or so and then untack it and cut off the excess. It'll probably have some spring back, but it should be better than letting it sit without reinforcement.

As for the sticking application, 3M makes a variety of mounting adhesives. I can't remember the name, but I do buy this stuff in a can, designed for affixing labels and such. It's availa
X-C20at most hardware stores.

Great info, Paul. Thanks so much!

thanks guys

thanks guys- great info!

Captain Obvious says:

Of course you can experiment with different papers, inks, and sprays on a piece of wood not actually attached to a uke first.

Krylon Workable Fixatif works well when sprayed on printed labels, I have used it on inkjet labels that I placed on beer bottles and the labels were waterproofed and took alot longer to fade so I am guessing there is some type of UV inhibitor in there. It also leaves a nice matte finish.

If you are using an inkjet, there are aftermarket carts that use archival pigment ink that resist fading. Many of these inks are used by photographers and they are very particular about the ink they use. Inkjetcarts.com may be a place to start for purchasing 3rd party ink carts.

Laser printers use heat, so if you want to avoid heat, go with an inkjet.

FunkyLaneo said:

Krylon Workable Fixatif works well when sprayed on printed labels, I have used it on inkjet labels that I placed on beer bottles and the labels were waterproofed and took alot longer to fade so I am guessing there is some type of UV inhibitor in there. It also leaves a nice matte finish.

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I just researched that stuff, and it's non-yellowing too, which is good.

uluapoundr said:

Inkjetcarts.com may be a place to start for purchasing 3rd party ink carts

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I think you meant www.inkjetart.com? inkjetcarts.com isn't a valid link. However www.inkjetart.com is THE place to buy printer supplies. They have killer prices, great service, and a super selection.

Please excuse this self serving promotion but I sell a laser printable wood veneer that will stand up to being used for labels on wine bottles - Here's the page link http://www.dbrooker.com/lpv.html - I use it for making labels and then some - DBukes

I just went on the computer and designed a label I liked'.... then I printed a sheet full of labels on standard A4 paper I got from "Tesco's".... and then gave the printed sheet of paper a wipe over with "Shellac/ French Polish".. when it had dry'd out about 5 min's later it then looked a lot like "Parchment"..I then got out the guillotine/sissors and sliced up a dozen or so labels .. then I put a few blob's of titebond on the back...stuck it in place, and "Bob's yer'e uncle"

and Fanny's yer aunt...

Pete Howlett said:

and Fanny's yer aunt...

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Thats true Pete ...And so were her Sisters "Nelly" "Jessie" and "Annie"... How did you know that???

Now that would be very telling - made a fellow builder envious with the nut width spacer and bridge clamp. I bless you every time I use them which is at least once a week!