Hawaiian Guitar Project

Monkeyswithladders · Jun 17, 2009

I made a cigar-box uke a while ago and it built up some woodworking confidence in me. So when I couldn't find a good deal on a lap steel, I decided to try making one myself. I thought I'd post some pics as I go and ask for much-needed advice from the luthiers here.

Yesterday I bought a plank of Black Walnut and cut out the rough shape with a scroll saw. Today I coarse sanded the sides. The biggest question I have right now is what finishing material I should use at the end and how do I apply it. Any advice? I really love the look of the wood and want to make sure it shows nicely.

Spooner · Jun 17, 2009

Can't help you there but I do like the design you have going. :shaka:

Good luck with it. I'll be keeping my eye on the progression.

russ_buss · Jun 17, 2009

that's awesome! can't wait to see the rest of the build.

Pete Howlett · Jun 17, 2009

Best low-tech finish is oil. Do a search and you will come up with some discussion on this board with links to William King's method which I think is the best.

koalohapaul · Jun 18, 2009

To second Pete, hand rubbed oil is a very good choice. It's easier to maintain than a sprayed gloss finish. Especially for something like a lap steel. That instrument is bound to be banged around.

seeso · Jun 18, 2009

Pete Howlett said:
Best low-tech finish is oil. Do a search and you will come up with some discussion on this board with links to William King's method which I think is the best.

Here's the link:

http://www.ukuleleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12789

Monkeyswithladders · Jun 18, 2009

Thanks for the suggestions. I read up on a lot of furniture finishing forums also and yeah, most people think Watco will be the best for Black Walnut. In the mean-time, it's time for me to start working on the fretboard, nut, and saddle

Moore Bettah Ukuleles · Jun 18, 2009

I think for a lasting finish you can do better than Tru-Oil. When it comes to finishes, easy on usually means easy off.
Three or four coats of rattle can polyurethane (Minwax) followed by a light 600 wet sanding and 0000 steel wool. My three cents worth.
I just can't believe that body was cut with a scroll saw!

Monkeyswithladders · Jun 20, 2009

Moore Bettah Ukuleles said:
I just can't believe that body was cut with a scroll saw!

Haha, thanks. I'm totally unequipped as far as tools go, so I'm trying to make it through with whatever I already have or can borrow. That was a total pain cutting black walnut with a scroll saw.

Today I cut the fretboard out of cherry wood and since I won't actually be "using" the frets, I just wood burned them in. I tried to make a design for the location markers that focused on the fret itself instead of the spacing between them. I figure for slide playing it'll make it easier to see where I'm going when I start learning to play.

p.s. The fretboard isn't glued on yet, so don't worry that it's off center

seeso · Jun 20, 2009

That is shaping up to be one awesome instrument. Keep us in the loop!

thistle3585 · Jun 22, 2009

I use a lot of walnut and I'd suggest a couple coats of amber shellac as the sealer coat followed by a number of coats of rattle can lacquer. The amber will highlight the color variations. I'd also sand it to a higher grit, maybe 400 or 600, if not staining it. "Sand" the sealer coat using either green stripping pads or fine steel wool and the lacquer will lay down smoother and require less work. Most people fill the pores in walnut but if you're ot going for a high gloss finish then I wouldn't worry about it.

Just my .02

andrew

Hawaiian Guitar Project

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