Beech for ukuleles?

Mobben

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I went camping a few weeks ago and found some interesting firewood.
I was told it was beech and I thought it would be interesting for an ukulele.
It has this pattern that makes it look really nice. So I just wanted to know if anyone have experience with beech?

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Here's what wikipedia says about beech:
"The wood of the European Beech is used in the manufacture of numerous objects and implements. Its fine and short grain makes it an easy wood to work with, easy to soak, dye (except its heartwood), varnish and glue. Steaming makes the wood even easier to machine. It has an excellent finish and is resistant to compression and splitting. Milling is sometimes difficult due to cracking and it is stiff when flexed. It is particularly well suited for minor carpentry, particularly furniture. From chairs to parquetry (flooring) and staircases, the European Beech can do almost anything other than heavy structural support, so long as it is not left outdoors. Its hardness make it ideal for making wooden mallets and workbench tops. The wood of the European Beech rots easily if it is not protected by a tar based on a distillate of its own bark (as used in railway sleepers). It is better for paper pulp than many other broadleaved trees though is only sometimes used for this. The code for its use in Europe is FASY(like FAgus SYlvatica). Common beech is also considered one of the best fuels for fireplaces."
 
I went camping a few weeks ago and found some interesting firewood.
I was told it was beech and I thought it would be interesting for an ukulele.
It has this pattern that makes it look really nice. So I just wanted to know if anyone have experience with beech?

HPIM3364.JPG


HPIM3365.JPG


Here's what wikipedia says about beech:
"The wood of the European Beech is used in the manufacture of numerous objects and implements. Its fine and short grain makes it an easy wood to work with, easy to soak, dye (except its heartwood), varnish and glue. Steaming makes the wood even easier to machine. It has an excellent finish and is resistant to compression and splitting. Milling is sometimes difficult due to cracking and it is stiff when flexed. It is particularly well suited for minor carpentry, particularly furniture. From chairs to parquetry (flooring) and staircases, the European Beech can do almost anything other than heavy structural support, so long as it is not left outdoors. Its hardness make it ideal for making wooden mallets and workbench tops. The wood of the European Beech rots easily if it is not protected by a tar based on a distillate of its own bark (as used in railway sleepers). It is better for paper pulp than many other broadleaved trees though is only sometimes used for this. The code for its use in Europe is FASY(like FAgus SYlvatica). Common beech is also considered one of the best fuels for fireplaces."
It's great for making "Fighting Ukuleles" you can hit that stuff with a hammer and it hardly dents :eek:
 
It's great for making "Fighting Ukuleles" you can hit that stuff with a hammer and it hardly dents :eek:

Well I don't have a fighting ukulele yet, maybe it would be a good idea so I can defend myself when people get too angry because of my bad playing :p

That is a piece of 'spalted' beech which means it is in the initial stages of 'rotting'. I'd use this for drop tops on my electric ukulele...

Interesting.. When you say that you'd use it for an electric ukulele, I assume it's because beech lacks tonal abilities and therefore wouldn't make a good acoustic ukulele. Is that correct?

I also read somewhere that it could be used for fretboard because of it's hardness. Would you agree there?

Thanks for the help so far :)
 
Ring porous timbers are not the best tonewoods. However beech used correctly would be fine. But because of the figure, I'd used it just for the drop top, not for the fingerboard. It's all aesthetics really...

But I suspect all you want is for us to say it's OK because you are going to use it anyway....
 
Ring porous timbers are not the best tonewoods. However beech used correctly would be fine. But because of the figure, I'd used it just for the drop top, not for the fingerboard. It's all aesthetics really...

But I suspect all you want is for us to say it's OK because you are going to use it anyway....

Well I'm not gonna spend my time on making a ukulele that is bound to be a failure from the start. That's why I asked you people who has a little more experience :)
I guess I'll just use it for head plate or something..

Thanks for the help :shaka:
 
It is far better to make a ukulele from 'known' tone woods at the outset than be disappointed - Its's going to be difficult enough making from scratch as it is. I am doing a 2 day extreme build course in finland in August... that would be a good way to go.
 
Your block doesn't look too far gone, I had a similar sized piece and as i sliced it up I kept on finding splits and soft patches, finally I got one set for a soprano that I will get round to making one day!! I would definitely second what Pete says about sticking to known woods, however!!
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It is far better to make a ukulele from 'known' tone woods at the outset than be disappointed - Its's going to be difficult enough making from scratch as it is. I am doing a 2 day extreme build course in finland in August... that would be a good way to go.

Yes I have been down the road of disappointment before with my birch ukulele. I'm proud that I did it all by my self, but there's a lot of flaws.

Thanks for the advise :)
 
Your block doesn't look too far gone, I had a similar sized piece and as i sliced it up I kept on finding splits and soft patches, finally I got one set for a soprano that I will get round to making one day!! I would definitely second what Pete says about sticking to known woods, however!!
spalted.jpg

Wow it really looks good.. Please keep us updated on the building process.
I had no doubt the wood would make a beautiful ukulele, it's the sound I'm concerned about :)
 
Wow it really looks good.. Please keep us updated on the building process.
I had no doubt the wood would make a beautiful ukulele, it's the sound I'm concerned about :)

I am thinking that matching it with a fine spruce top to get the best out of it, but it is an absolutely uncertain outcome, If its tone you are concerned with you do know that Pete Howlett can provide some custom cut Koa.....
 
I am thinking that matching it with a fine spruce top to get the best out of it, but it is an absolutely uncertain outcome, If its tone you are concerned with you do know that Pete Howlett can provide some custom cut Koa.....

I'm just looking for a little more experience before I'm getting started with the koa..

Yes a spruce top would probably help :)

Good luck with it :shaka:
 
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