big leaf spalted maple.
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koalohapaul
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I have no idea how fast maple will rot out, but sounds like you might have a nice log waiting to be turned into a uke. Try contacting a local mill or wood worker with a big band saw. You might be able to work a trade. Give them a few boards for the milling fee and you may end up with more than a few sets of wood for ukes and guitars. The only way to tell for sure is to cut into it with a chainsaw.
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petah
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I was planning on cutting out a board with my chain saw tomorrow afternoon with my neighbor. My neighbor is a cabinet maker so I'll get him to do all the hard work. I'm pretty sure it's very heavily splatted, suitable for an electric guitar/uke body. How thick should I cut it? 2inchs? 3inchs?
we cut the logs in half so the fresh side was in contact with the ground I'm thinking it's going to produce some nice flame like splatting (like a flame job on a hot rod) maybe wishful thinking but I'm excited.
we cut the logs in half so the fresh side was in contact with the ground I'm thinking it's going to produce some nice flame like splatting (like a flame job on a hot rod) maybe wishful thinking but I'm excited.
DaveVisi
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I usually just ignore speling errors, but the word is "spalted."
koalohapaul
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Depends on how you're going to mill it. If your neighbor is going to use a chainsaw to mill, I would go 2". It's really hard to mill thickness with a chainsaw, even if you're good. If he's doing it on a band saw, 1-1/2" should be fine. That gives you enough room to surface it flat and still have ample thickness for a solid body electric.
The closer you can get it to the final thickness, the better. 2" thick lumber takes more than twice the amount of drying time compared to 1".
Hopefully it's spalted and not rotted out. Are there any beetles that attack it? Once in a while I mill my own mango logs, but I need to cut, treat, and dry it before the bugs hit it. I think you have them up there - The powder post beetles eat the heck out of mango within days of falling a tree. In fact, I just tossed a whole load of mango that I milled a couple of years ago. It was dried and treated, but they still ate into it. I tried treating it again, but the grubs just bored deeper.
I decided to toss it, before they got hungrier and attacked my stash of koa.
The closer you can get it to the final thickness, the better. 2" thick lumber takes more than twice the amount of drying time compared to 1".
Hopefully it's spalted and not rotted out. Are there any beetles that attack it? Once in a while I mill my own mango logs, but I need to cut, treat, and dry it before the bugs hit it. I think you have them up there - The powder post beetles eat the heck out of mango within days of falling a tree. In fact, I just tossed a whole load of mango that I milled a couple of years ago. It was dried and treated, but they still ate into it. I tried treating it again, but the grubs just bored deeper.
I decided to toss it, before they got hungrier and attacked my stash of koa.Good chance that is might be usable.
I had some sugar maple that laid around about that long but the tree wasn't quite that old. I cut off about 10" on each side of the log then cut out the pith. I still have some of it left somewhere. (You heard of UAS... well I have WAS)
Like koalohapaul mentioned, 1-1/2" to 2" is good for what you are doing. If it is deeply spalted be careful how you sticker it. You want to avoid staining. Also I would also seal the ends to help avoid future problems.
I would love to see some pictures when you cut it open.
I had some sugar maple that laid around about that long but the tree wasn't quite that old. I cut off about 10" on each side of the log then cut out the pith. I still have some of it left somewhere. (You heard of UAS... well I have WAS)
Like koalohapaul mentioned, 1-1/2" to 2" is good for what you are doing. If it is deeply spalted be careful how you sticker it. You want to avoid staining. Also I would also seal the ends to help avoid future problems.
I would love to see some pictures when you cut it open.
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I usually ignore the spelling errors too...
Sorry, Dave - please forgive me! I couldn't help myself!
DaveVisi
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I was wondering when someone would take the bait.
DaveVisi
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I hear there's a fine line between spalting and rotted wood. How do you treat the wood to stop the spalting and stabilize it for instrument use?
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petah
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spelling isn't great at 2am when I can hardly type.
For stabilization can I impregnate the wood with resin? The only issue I see with this would be weight. The 3pound blank with be 5-6 pounds.... no need to finish it as it would be 'plastic wood'
Also is there any other treatments? I have seen super figured wood that looks almost rotten and I would think drying is only a step in the process.
EDIT:
Dave G, How do you do it?
EDIT:
I'm right, you impregnate it with resin. I have a long list of people that can do that.
For stabilization can I impregnate the wood with resin? The only issue I see with this would be weight. The 3pound blank with be 5-6 pounds.... no need to finish it as it would be 'plastic wood'
Also is there any other treatments? I have seen super figured wood that looks almost rotten and I would think drying is only a step in the process.
EDIT:
Dave G, How do you do it?
EDIT:
I'm right, you impregnate it with resin. I have a long list of people that can do that.
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thistle3585
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There really isn't any way to expedite the drying of such a thick piece other than having it professionally kiln dried. I've always relied on the inch a year theory. I also know a guy who "seasons" wood by sealing it in a garbage bag and putting it out in the sun. Kind of a quick solar kiln process. I've known some people to attempt it in the oven but it becomes case hardened.
I don't know of any epoxy that you could "impregnate" the wood with but there are wood hardeners and wood stabilizers on the market that are designed for hardening petrified woods. Just not sure how it would react to the finishing process.
Personally, I'd cut it up into drop tops and use a lighter weight wood for the body and have enough to make a bunch of instruments. Spalted drop tops are pricey and you may be able to turn a buck depending on how nice they look.
Andrew
I don't know of any epoxy that you could "impregnate" the wood with but there are wood hardeners and wood stabilizers on the market that are designed for hardening petrified woods. Just not sure how it would react to the finishing process.
Personally, I'd cut it up into drop tops and use a lighter weight wood for the body and have enough to make a bunch of instruments. Spalted drop tops are pricey and you may be able to turn a buck depending on how nice they look.
Andrew
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petah
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The guitar industry is light years behind in stabilization. The process I was thinking of is similar to processing F4 CF. Heat, pressure, Vacuum ....The same process they use on knife scales and gun stocks.
would turning wood into plastic drastically change the tone?
I should add, I don't want to make a buck at this. I really just want to make a nice guitar body. If I can get some nice pieces I'll just give them away at the cost of shipping... Maybe a trade or 2 for things I may need.
would turning wood into plastic drastically change the tone?
I should add, I don't want to make a buck at this. I really just want to make a nice guitar body. If I can get some nice pieces I'll just give them away at the cost of shipping... Maybe a trade or 2 for things I may need.
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Yes.
You don't need to stabilize spalted wood unless it is really rotten. If it is that rotten you will not want to use for a guitar anyway.
The black lines in spalted wood is mold. The sides will want to crack along the spalt lines.
One last thing... you will need respiratory protection when you are working with this wood.
Ahnko Honu
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Maybe I'll lean enough to start work on my 6ft long master grade Honduran mahogany plank my grand dad got from Bill Lewis
Don't lean too hard on that mahogany.
We don't want you to work up a sweat.
:smileybounce:
Moore Bettah Ukuleles
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Thin CA glue is commonly used for stabilizing spalted wood. Simply saturate the area before running it through your drum sander.
The only thing you can do with splatted wood however is make toothpicks out of it.
The only thing you can do with splatted wood however is make toothpicks out of it.
