Sound hole for a concert?
- Thread starter RonS
- Start date
Bradford
Well-known member
That sounds a little on the small side. I use 2.06" on my concerts. That being said, are your other dimensions standard for a concert. Everything is interrelated, if your body is a little thinner for instance, that size may be OK. Because of my mandolin making experience, I often fine tune the soundhole size after stringing up the instrument. When you build a carved top mandolin, one of the last things you do is to gradually enlarge the f-holes to balance the bass and treble response. You can do the same thing with a uke. A smaller hole will favor the bass response.
Brad
Brad
Thanks Brad
Smaller sound holes favors the bass, I didn't know that.
Tomorrow I'll be gluing the braces on the top plate. I was planning on using some 0.153" cut-offs from the top. I know thin braces favors the bass.
The sides and back are a single piece of quartersawn sycamore. Think 7-1/2" bowl with 2-1/4" sides with a arched back. (it started bigger
) Sides and back are 0.09" thick. The spruce top is 0.082" thick. I'm guessing all this makes the sound box a bit smaller than a normal concert.
I guess I will start with a small hole and enlarge it as needed.
Here is another question, how does the shape effect the tone?
Smaller sound holes favors the bass, I didn't know that.
Tomorrow I'll be gluing the braces on the top plate. I was planning on using some 0.153" cut-offs from the top. I know thin braces favors the bass.
The sides and back are a single piece of quartersawn sycamore. Think 7-1/2" bowl with 2-1/4" sides with a arched back. (it started bigger
) Sides and back are 0.09" thick. The spruce top is 0.082" thick. I'm guessing all this makes the sound box a bit smaller than a normal concert. I guess I will start with a small hole and enlarge it as needed.
Here is another question, how does the shape effect the tone?
Bradford
Well-known member
How the shape of the sound hole effects things is a much more complex question. As Rick Turner pointed out everything makes a difference. The shape is going to effect how the soundboard vibrates. The difference between an oval hole and a round hole in the same spot is not going to be much, compared to two f-holes on the sides. With what you are doing, you might consider f-holes with an X bracing pattern. An oval hole with X bracing is another option. How you brace the top and graduate the thickness of the top are going to be the big variables.
Brad
Brad
I kind figured that. Do you know of any books or links that may help explain about sound hole shapes?
I've been considering some holes on the sides. I like the way the Ohana VITA-UKE looks. I always wondered if those hole where seals (as in sea lions) or if it was a Rorschach image. I thought about a dolphin shape but there are to many points that can break. On the Applause they have 10 holes on each side with various hardwood glued to the top. Looks nice but I'm not crazy about that.
On this build the top will be flat. I'm still trying to figure out how to match the curve to the bridge. I had given thought to using a mandolin or banjo type bridge. Maybe I'm over thinking this so I decided to keep this one simple.
I have some 1/4" quartersawn cedar that I cut about 20 years ago. I'll be using that for the next top which will have a slight domed shape.
Once again Brad, thanks!
I've been considering some holes on the sides. I like the way the Ohana VITA-UKE looks. I always wondered if those hole where seals (as in sea lions) or if it was a Rorschach image. I thought about a dolphin shape but there are to many points that can break. On the Applause they have 10 holes on each side with various hardwood glued to the top. Looks nice but I'm not crazy about that.
On this build the top will be flat. I'm still trying to figure out how to match the curve to the bridge. I had given thought to using a mandolin or banjo type bridge. Maybe I'm over thinking this so I decided to keep this one simple.
I have some 1/4" quartersawn cedar that I cut about 20 years ago. I'll be using that for the next top which will have a slight domed shape.
Once again Brad, thanks!
Bradford
Well-known member
You are welcome. At this time I can't add much more. You are at the point that it is just best to go ahead and build and see what you get, and then refine the design. Unfortunately, lutherie is a lot like biology, most mutations are either no help or are detrimental. New designs take a long time and a lot of effort to perfect. Good luck.
Brad
Brad
