Fair question, and I think you already know the answer.
I'm in the process of building a ukulele that has a few unorthodox features. I already mentioned that the body was turned on a wood lathe. I needed to turn on 3 different axises to get the shape that I needed.
The back and sides are .09" thick. If you ever worked this thin on a lathe you should know that wood movement is a concern and it can not be completed a single session but over the course of a few weeks (if the wood permits working that fast). As the result of a technique that I developed in the years past for similar work, the back and sides will not need bracing or kerfing and will remain stable for years to come. Side note: I've turned to .06" using this technique and have the luxury of examining the completed work to see if there is any problems with wood movement. Some projects are 8 years old and are good as new.
Because of my design, figuring out how to mount the neck was interesting. I decided to move the neck block to the outside of the body. This worked out well and is pleasing to the eye.
The neck block, tail block, sides and back are all from a single piece of sycamore. Not a single glue line.
I have turned drum bodies from a single blocks of wood and the difference in sound is incredible compared to a drum body that has glue lines. I'm expecting the same results for the uke body. Time will tell.
The top is .083" thick (before final sanding). The top bracing and sound hole had to be designed differently because of the body shape.
Tonight I cut the fret slots, glued in the dots then I cut the stock for the bridge. Each string will have it's own saddle to help compensate for intonation.
If all goes well, I will have the fretboard and the bridge glued on this weekend.