Question for Ron...

I asked his to post too:::::::Lets GO Ron::::: !!!!!!!


No Shame
 
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what is this a ukulele luthiers showdown?
 
I don't think so, we have just heard little bits and pieces and like the cat.:eek:

He is making something a bit different also so to me that is interesting.
 
Fair question, and I think you already know the answer.

I'm in the process of building a ukulele that has a few unorthodox features. I already mentioned that the body was turned on a wood lathe. I needed to turn on 3 different axises to get the shape that I needed.

The back and sides are .09" thick. If you ever worked this thin on a lathe you should know that wood movement is a concern and it can not be completed a single session but over the course of a few weeks (if the wood permits working that fast). As the result of a technique that I developed in the years past for similar work, the back and sides will not need bracing or kerfing and will remain stable for years to come. Side note: I've turned to .06" using this technique and have the luxury of examining the completed work to see if there is any problems with wood movement. Some projects are 8 years old and are good as new.

Because of my design, figuring out how to mount the neck was interesting. I decided to move the neck block to the outside of the body. This worked out well and is pleasing to the eye.

The neck block, tail block, sides and back are all from a single piece of sycamore. Not a single glue line.

I have turned drum bodies from a single blocks of wood and the difference in sound is incredible compared to a drum body that has glue lines. I'm expecting the same results for the uke body. Time will tell.

The top is .083" thick (before final sanding). The top bracing and sound hole had to be designed differently because of the body shape.

Tonight I cut the fret slots, glued in the dots then I cut the stock for the bridge. Each string will have it's own saddle to help compensate for intonation.

If all goes well, I will have the fretboard and the bridge glued on this weekend.
 
OK guys, let's just cool it with the remarks, no need to try and incite anything. Much Mahalos . . .
 
Are the strings anchored at the saddle? I'm interested to see how your compensated saddle is designed. Recently, I've been toying around with the idea of having each string's saddle rest directly on the soundboard.
 
The strings will be tied to the bridge. I have two designs for the saddles, one will make easy to change the intonation using a set screw much like a electric guitar saddle. The other design will require filing the saddles to change the intonation. I'm hoping the first idea works, I'll let you know.

The bridge and saddles are ebony. I will tap threads into the ebony saddles for metal set screws.
 
So this is your first Ron - have you photo documented it because it sounds like an interesting project? Top's a bit thick. Maybe you can feather out towards the edge to make it more flexible?
 
Most builders document their work in progress. Pity you are not doing the same Ron. I'm sure we could all benefit from seeing your setup and how you are meeting the challenge of building this unique instrument...:D
 
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