newbie question.

ukuleG

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ok so i found an old chocolate box (pretty much the same as a cigar box) and i have some other parts laying about (the neck off a mahalo some geared tuners worths strings). was wondering where i place the bridge on the body as i don't have any other sopranos to compare it to.
 
It should be placed so the center of the saddle is the same distance from the 12th fret as the 12th fret is from the nut.

--Mark
 
One thing to be aware of is that ideally the bridge should not be too close to the end of the box. If the scale length dictates that the bridge will be less than about 1 1/2" from the end, then the acoustic sound will suffer badly. Not so important if you intend to amplify it.

Ukantor.

Edit - Really, you should be looking for more like 2" from the end. It might need a block between the neck and the box to achieve this. How long is your wooden chocolate box?
 
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As I feared - that will give only about 5/8" between the bridge and the edge of the box, if the neck joins directly onto the box at the twelfth fret. That will not allow the soundboard to vibrate properly.

Is this to be a serious attempt to produce a decent sounding box-uke, or is it just a fun project? If the latter, don't worry about it. If you want to make it sound reasonable, I'd advise you to insert a block between the box and the neck. Effectively, you will be extending the neck.

Don't get discouraged, it's all do-able, and box ukes are a lot of fun.

Ukantor.
 
so you mean a block to extend the neck or what i don't really understand when it comes to building things i'm a bit special.
 
so you mean a block to extend the neck or what i don't really understand when it comes to building things i'm a bit special.


Yep, that's what he means.
Think of it as a fat spacer between the neck and the box.

My instincts tell me that hardwood would be the best.
But maybe a 2x4 just might be the answer.
 
Try this UkuleG, place the box on the table, put the neck down on the table touching the box in the position where you would join it. Measure the scale length from the nut onto the box. You will find that the bridge will be close to the end of the box. Now - move the neck away from the box to place it where it needs to be to put the bridge about 1 3/4" from the end of the box. The gap which you have made, between the joint face of the neck and the box, has to be filled, obviously. You can do this simply by inserting a block between the neck and the box. It won't look pretty, but the improvement to the sound will be well worth the extra effort - if the sound is important to you.

I hope I've explained that well.

Ukantor.

Edit - Yep, just as RonS says. Much better than my explanation! I've made about a dozen box ukes, but the shortest box I've used was 9 1/2", which is about ideal for a soprano joining at the twelfth fret.
 
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Enjoy the experience UkuleG. Take your time, and think things through. Try to get the neck lined up pumb down the centre line of the box, and flat with the surface which will form the soundboard.

Box ukes can be surprisingly good to play.

Ukantor.
 
ok so im not trying to highjack this thread or anything but i have a similar question if thats ok ... i am wanting to make a uke out of an old antique cookie tin i have.. would the same thing apply ? with the bridge being 1 3/4" from the bottom ?
 
I can't answer that, mrUKETOBER. I've never made one like that. A wooden box uke is just like a regular uke in principle. I suspect that a tin box requires a completely different approach. I think you would normally use a through neck. I suspect the vibrations are occuring down the length of the "through neck", and the tin is mostly acting as a sound chamber.

I'll be interested to hear what others think.

Ukantor.
 
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