Necks and Bridge

Matt Clara

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Lansing, Michigan
In case anyone is wondering, I've not been entirely idle. The CBU #1 I'm working on has gotten dragged out due to my desire to print images on it in the dark room. I've begun CBU #2, and I've carved a few necks, and, today, took my first crack at a bridge. In the images below, the two necks with shaped headstocks are made of white cedar, and the one with the blank headstock is ash. None of them are completed yet, all need more sanding. I roughed the bridge out of African Padauk on my bandsaw. There's a cool store for wood workers not too far from where I live that sells blanks for turning pens. I bought the padauk for 75¢. It includes enough wood for two bridges like this one. The saddle you see in it arrived broken, which is why it's short. Considering this is my first bridge, and hopefully the least perfect of them, it seemed a good pairing. The holes have been traced, but not put in their final positions. I've gotta think about it some, first.


Click the above image: it goes to a web page that may be slow to download cause of the big pics.

Thanks,
Matt
 
Really, no one's even going to point out that African Padauk might not be the best choice for a bridge (sure is pretty, though), or that the ash has a significant rift saw going on? I can take it, honest I can. How 'bout the fact that all my necks thin out right before ascending the heels? (I'm better with the rasp than the band saw, is all I can say, though those headstocks came out pretty cool for first attempts!)
 
The headstocks are awesome! I have no idea about the padauk, but like you say - it's pretty!
 
I think they look sweet dude

Thanks, CFG. I have to admit to really enjoying carving those necks with the rasp, except for going against the grain on the heel, 'cause that's hard work. Did you notice I took your advice and cut the point off my "czar" headstock, making something more like a traditional banjo headstock? You were right, looks great that way. One thing I've discovered is I need to work on my precision. I think getting the basics, like drawing those center lines and sticking with them, needs to be my mantra. My neck with the "comb over" design drifts a little to the left, so that it's a millimeter wider on the left than the right by the time it gets to the headstock, as measured from the center line. I can't make it any narrower, so I'm stuck with it that way. I will probably scrap it as a result. Also, I've got to figure out a better way to cut the channel in my bridge. Standing it on end infront of the band saw blade leaves something to be desired. I tried my dremel with that circle cutter dohickey (it comes with a router "edge" device, too, for routing straight lines), and it cuts 'em too rough and too wide. You probably use your table saw.
 
The headstocks are awesome! I have no idea about the padauk, but like you say - it's pretty!

I did read up on it a little before I said, what the heck. Like rosewood, padauk is heavy and dense. Unlike rosewood, it's not particularly oily, and it is open pored. Maybe I'll put it on with some real hide glue, so I can take it back off if need be. I doubt it, though, that hide glue sounds like a real PITA.
 
Maybe I'll put it on with some real hide glue, so I can take it back off if need be. I doubt it, though, that hide glue sounds like a real PITA.

If you don't want to deal with the mixing and the smell try Titebond liquid hide glue. It is comparatively expensive, and has a limited shelf life, but really great stuff so we always use it up...

BTW, we always use hide glue for the bridge (and various other joints that you might want to change or reset). A little moisture and a little heat and you can pull it right back off. If you've already finished the top make sure to rasor cut the finish around the edge of the bridge so it doesn't crack when the bridge comes off.
 
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