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View Full Version : Chuck - you are the master!



Pete Howlett
11-15-2009, 06:12 AM
I did a video a short while back showing how I DID bolt on necks. Chuck, quite rightly chided me that this was an awkward method especially when using Brazilian cedar and that I'd better change my ways or he'd sort me out! :eek:

So, not wanting to incure the Master's wrath, I went away and did this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoBLSRrdQZw)... do I get a cookie now Chuck or do I still have to sleep in the cupboard under the stairs?

E-Lo Roberts
11-15-2009, 07:38 AM
Pete, Both Chuck and Dominator help steer me in the right direction a few years back on the barrel bolt method. I really like it. Thanks to both of them, and course you, for helping guys like me with cool tricks like that...e.lo...

Matt Clara
11-15-2009, 08:15 AM
You're no slouch yourself, sir.

Timbuck
11-15-2009, 09:17 AM
And again..there's this fixing that can be used.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16020/Screws/Interior-Wood-Screws/Other-Interior-Screws/Dowel-Screws/Machine-Thread-to-Wood-Thread-Dowel-Screws-M6-x-50mm-Pack-of-10?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Screws-_-Machine%20Thread%20to%20Wood%20Thread%20Dowel%20Sc rews%20M6%20x%2050mm%20Pack%20of%2010

Kekani
11-15-2009, 09:50 AM
I've been wanting to barrel nut along with an M&T for a while, but Paul hasn't cut my jig yet. . . Of course, I may have to thicken my heel so I can do the Chuck method. . .

Pete, just out of curiosity (and I apologize if you've covered this already), do you glue the joint? If you don't glue the joint, do you tape off the finish in the joint area, or not? How do you finish with a bolt on (separated, or together)?

Aaron

mokai
11-15-2009, 10:05 AM
+1 to Chuck for sharing his knowledge

looking good pete

Pete Howlett
11-15-2009, 11:22 AM
OK - I'm working through this as a method. I'll let you know when I have decided what works best. I am finishing separately..

Dave Higham
11-15-2009, 12:18 PM
A number of (guitar) luthiers use the threaded dowels Ken refers to above. They are also known as 'hanger bolts'.
The usual procedure is to glue a hardwood dowel into the hole Pete has drilled for his barrel nut, which gives the hanger bolt something to bite into. This means you're not screwing it into the end grain of relatively soft wood. In fact, it's also what you should do if using threaded inserts.

Steve vanPelt
11-15-2009, 06:54 PM
Thanks, Pete for another great video. I've been watching them for a while now and want to say how much I appreciate that you take the time to share your knowledge. And Chuck's knowledge. I'm going to try that on my next one. Sanding around a Spanish Heel is so five minutes ago.

thanks again, Steve:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
11-16-2009, 06:55 AM
Thank you Pete but I'm certainly no master. I just ripped off that idea from someone else, I don't remember who. Last year I spear-headed a uke building project with all of our guild members and now everyone here (almost), even some old traditionalists, have adopted it. I won't go into depth but there are a few reasons I like it.
I can bolt and unbolt the neck as many times as I want during construction ensuring my neck angle, body to neck plane, (no more 14th fret humps) and resulting action is exactly what I want it to be. It also allows me to finish the body and neck separately which is a huge advantage is achieving flawless mirror finishes. It has rocked my finishing world.
Aaron, I prepare the body/neck junction just as I would a bridge. The entire body is sprayed, then the neck area is scraped. What this does is creates a very small void where the lacquer was removed and allows the neck to be snugged up real tight. Although not really necessary I apply a drop of glue in the lower area where the heel cap is. The fret board extension is also glued and clamped.
I'm not saying that this is a better method of neck attachment, it just fits my style of building better.
Pete, those bolts are available through wood working catalogs. I've gotten them through Rockler but they are available at my local big box home improvement store as well. They are labelled "cross dowel bolts".

Pete Howlett
11-16-2009, 07:09 AM
They are available in the UK but not to my specification. I am using 5mm bolts for smaller instruments...

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
11-16-2009, 07:14 AM
Oh, you guys and your funny mmmmmmms.

Pete Howlett
11-16-2009, 07:43 AM
I am bi-lingual when it comes to measurement. However I do find the metric system for threads so much more sensible than the numerous imperial ones. For instance: a 6mm thread has a 1mm pitch. This is great for making small tools with calibration - one turn will advance the screw by 1mm.

So when I fitted a 10 x 1.75 screw to my sander I knew that one revolution would be equivalent to a table rise of 1.75mm. Ideal for thicknessing precisely.

Timbuck
11-16-2009, 07:48 AM
They are available in the UK but not to my specification. I am using 5mm bolts for smaller instruments...
Pete... The barrel nut's are easy to make in any size you want, (if you've got a set of Taps)..They can be made from Aluminium or Brass bar..I made some out of Brass bar for some Banjo ukes I made a few years ago....Here's some pic's from Glyph showing an Aluminium Barrel nut in manufacture, it's about 30 pics down the page.
http://www.ukeland.com/pages/articles/articles.cgi?collecting/glyph

Pete Howlett
11-16-2009, 08:11 AM
If you watch the video Ken you will see I am making them out of B&Q 10mm steel...After my conversion to my lathe I got taps and dies and all the other stuff. Just don't get enough time to play around with it...

Kekani
11-16-2009, 08:23 AM
It also allows me to finish the body and neck separately which is a huge advantage is achieving flawless mirror finishes. It has rocked my finishing world.
Aaron, I prepare the body/neck junction just as I would a bridge. The entire body is sprayed, then the neck area is scraped. What this does is creates a very small void where the lacquer was removed and allows the neck to be snugged up real tight. Although not really necessary I apply a drop of glue in the lower area where the heel cap is. The fret board extension is also glued and clamped.

The ability to finish separate is exactly why I want to move in that direction, I'm just working through the little stuff. Unlike you, I like to tape rather than scrape -this is leftover from my automotive/motorcycle spraying days. The end result is the same. I haven't built up enough confidence not to glue, even though the bolts will hold a nylon string with no problem. I admire Rick Turners process that he grafted from his Renaissance Guitars (somewhat) onto his `ukulele - bolt on neck in the truest sense. I agree with the void, and once I figured out how to do it with the bridge, I KNEW I had to do it with the neck joint. I got two on the bench right now, may as well start. . .

Thanks guys.

Aaron

Timbuck
11-16-2009, 08:45 AM
If you watch the video Ken you will see I am making them out of B&Q 10mm steel...After my conversion to my lathe I got taps and dies and all the other stuff. Just don't get enough time to play around with it... So you did..I must have slept thro' that bit.:)

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
11-16-2009, 08:53 AM
Unlike you, I like to tape rather than scrape
Aaron

The reason I don't like to tape off is because of the bump (.005" thickness) that interferes with even, consistent wet sanding of the finish. It's not right or wrong, just my style of working. If you've got the cajones, you might want to try Gleason's method of removing the finish with a hot knife.

Kekani
11-16-2009, 10:48 AM
If you've got the cajones, you might want to try Gleason's method of removing the finish with a hot knife.

I saw that, but I can't bring myself to attempt the steady hand at the edges. He can be the big bull in the pit on that one. . .

Pete Howlett
11-16-2009, 11:30 AM
What is scarrier is using paint stripper! Just a little blob on the brush dropping onto the finish would cause me to give up!

Dominator
11-21-2009, 09:10 AM
Pete, Both Chuck and Dominator help steer me in the right direction a few years back on the barrel bolt method. I really like it. Thanks to both of them, and course you, for helping guys like me with cool tricks like that...e.lo...

Thanks Ernie but the real credit for this bolt on method goes to Dave Means. He squared me away on this during my second build. I have been one for experimentation in this regard and don't use glue for the joint. I do my best to get a good fit between the bottom of the FB and the top where the neck overhangs so that I don't use glue there either. From my 3rd uke on the only one that has the FB glued to the top is the spruc top tenor. There are four people who have one in their possession. I ask now and then and so far nobody has had any issues with them coming loose. Actually, the bolt on Jon Prown's #004 tenor did come loose once. This was before I started using a conical compression washer. That took care of the issue.

Pete Howlett
11-21-2009, 09:28 AM
Bill Collinmgs uses the conical washer...