New builder needs help

HI guys. Ive built two Stew Macs and a grizzly. Im on my second scratch built uke. I ordered and received two book matched black walnut for my top today. I didn't realize they would need to be thickness sanded. They look to be about 1/8 thick. I will need to get them down a lot.

My question is can I use the tools I have. Palm sander or belt sander? Will I need to buy a planer of some kind?
I dont think Im going to be building any more ukuleles after this. I love to play and am proud of the ones I did as an armature builder.

Can someone tell me an easy way to thickness sand my tops.

Thank you in advance.

Dan

You need to first find a way to a way to glue and clamp the two top and back plates together. Many methods are used, ask if you need suggestions. My first few dozen ukes many years ago were thickness sanded with a hand held belt sander. It can be done if you are very careful and check thickness frequently. The glued up plates are either cleated with thin strips of wood or attached with double backed tape to a flat work surface while you sand. The cleats are nice because you can pop the plates out to check the thickness easier. Others have been successful with hand planes but I have no experience with them. At 1/8" you won't really have too much to take off beyond sanding the seam. Without a drum sander it's better to sand conservatively knowing you can always take more off with your palm sander after the soundbox is constructed. With walnut a good target thickness to start with should be about .80" to .85" so you've only got about 1/32" of material to remove. Take your time and watch your edges!
Good luck.

sanding

Chuck, Thanks for the info and support. Id like to tell ya alittle more about this uke. The last one I did from scratch I glued the two half's together. But I took it to a cabinet maker who put it through a planer. I dont mind asking for help but sure would like to make this one my build.
Im a lefty and made a side bender out of plywood and light bulbs. It worked three time now and for a new guy Im kinda proud of them. This time Im making a soprano and wanted a cut a way. ( my primary instrument is the guitar ). So I cut and bent a side to look like a venition cut a way type. Its exciting for me because its a soprano and a lefty. We dont see many of either.
Once Im done with the cut a way uke I will most likely be done building. I will leave it up to you pro,s and gladly buy from ya when needed.

So this one is personal to me as a lefty and the builder. The others I gave to my daughter and a friend. I have a Martin that I like a lot. The first Stew Mac I built I still have and take with me on my motorcycle trips.

I dont want to buy a planer if I can get a way without and would love to do this one by sanding.
If I were to build more Id need a lot more equipment and just cant right now.

Thanks
Dan

http://www.freemansupply.com/WagnerSafeTPlaner.htm
I've uses one of the safety planer in my drill press for years until I got a drum thickness sander. It works very well. Just take your time taking light cuts and slowly pushing it with the grain. Doug

Whoops, nix what I said in my earlier post. I assumed you were building a tenor. You'll need to be considerably thinner for a soprano--somewhere around .060".
The Venetian cutaway will be a challenge on a box that small. It can be done, just take your time. A Florentine style cutaway is another option that doesn't require such a tight radius.

I used an inexpensive random orbit sander for a while. For the cedar/spruce tops, it really works a trick. It can be time consuming for harder woods, though, but it works, you just have to be careful to sand evenly/equally.

Thickness sanding

Chuck and Matt,
I am doing a florentine cut a way and have the sides and kerfling done. I agree it was easier than trying to do a regular cut a way.
I have an orbital sander , a belt sander and a palm sander.
I will try them all because I dont think I will become a custom builder any time soon.
Any other helpful ideas are very welcome.
Thanks
Dan