New uke problem

Milla

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So this is the glue spot on my new lanikai 6 string :( You can also see the damage my busted strings caused just past the bridge. The high c string broke twice while trying to put new worths on it. I contacted worth and have not heard back. I will be calling the person I bought the uke from tomorrow. The glue is sloppy all around the bridge. How does something like this pass QA? Any ideas??
Thanks,
Nick
 

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A friend of mine had a problem with his New Lanikai, and they made good on it for him. Hopefully they do the same for you.Best of luck.
 
I just hope if I do have to return it, they cover the shipping. It was 50$ last time I had to ship a ukulele.
 
Worth emailed me back and is sending new strings and recommended I try using the High A string in place of the high C. I already tried this but will try again.
 
I don't understand how a broken string could do the damage, are they being overtightened (i.e. in tune but in the wrong octive... up in the gods octives)? It must take one hellish amount of tension for it to flick back and nick the wood.
 
I'm guessing the knot pulled loose. It can happen to anyone. I gouged a brand new $1000 classical guitar that way on my first string change. Now I scotch tape something like a credit card below the bridge before I replace strings to protect the wood. especially on softer cedar tops.

For the thinner, more flexible strings I tie a "figure 8" knot in the end of the string before tying it on the bridge so the end can't pull through. You can do the same thing a little neater by melting a ball on the end of the string first. I hold the end of the string vertically *below* a match flame until it softens and a bead forms. If you hold it horizontally you risk it getting lopsided and if you hold it over the flame you risk the string catching fire and giving you a charred blackened mess.
 
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I'm guessing the knot pulled loose. It can happen to anyone. I gouged a brand new $1000 classical guitar that way on my first string change. Now I scotch tape something like a credit card below the bridge before I replace strings to protect the wood. especially on softer cedar tops.

For the thinner, more flexible strings I tie a "figure 8" knot in the end of the string before tying it on the bridge so the end can't pull through. You can do the same thing a little neater by melting a ball on the end of the string first. I hold the end of the string vertically *below* a match flame until it softens and a bead forms. If you hold it horizontally you risk it getting lopsided and if you hold it over the flame you risk the string catching fire and giving you a charred blackened mess.

Thanks for the info! I will try this. I have been lucky so far, but thanks for the warning. I would rather be over- safe than sad. Is a credit card big enough to protect, or are there other areas in danger?
–Lori
 
Those fluoro strings are slippery!

My son's Strat had a glue spot on the fretboard that I delicately removed using an emery board, then polished the rosewood with one of those fingernail buffer bricks that has three grits. It looks really good (not perfect but a whole lot better) now. If you are a particularly brave soul you could try that on the bridge (not on the finished top). Just be very gingerly and meticulous if you decide to try it.
 
If your Worths broke twice with the same string I'm betting that the nut slot is sharp. I use Aquilas and they are prone to breaking at the nut. It is recommended that the slots be sanded smooth with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper. And yes, a broken string can indeed cause a nasty ding. The precautions mentioned above are good ones.
 
The string isn't slipping through, its breaking. Its snapping somewhere on the bridge. I'm not even getting remotely close to the note the string is suppose to be (high C) If it was slipping through I could try and restring the same string, but they all come up short. About to call lanikai on the matter!
 
Can you look at the remains of the broken strings and tell approximately where the breakage is happening in relation to the bridge? You probably have an edge that is too sharp or a burr somewhere either on the surface of the bridge, the saddle, or (heaven forbid) inside the stringing hole.
 
Thanks for the tip chuck. What about the bridge? The corners look rather sharp and could be the problem.
 
Feel those corners with your finger. Does it feel too sharp? You may need to take a bit of 400-600 grit sandpaper wrapped around something small like a chopstick or a pencil and tone the corners down right where the string contacts them. Feel around for burrs or nicks on those corners and the saddle.
 
Just got off the phone about the glue on the bridge. I'll have to pay for shipping to ship it to HI :( Guy said they'll take a look at the glue and bridge. ugh ugh ugh Second uke I've had to send back :mad:
 
What kind of uke was the first one you had to send back?

BTW I have just started using small glass beads (with tiny holes) to help keep the string knots from slipping through bridge slots.
 
The first was a Kala flame maple spruce top. There was a crack in the middle of the top under the bridge.
 
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