I'm looking to add a waterslide decal to the headstock of a Stew-Mac tenor kit currently under construction. I've experimented on scrap to make sure I like the look, and I've been disappointed. Even when sealing the ink with the same NC lacquer I'll use to finish the instrument, and then spraying a couple of coats over the test decals, I can still see the outline of the clear edges. In other words, the decal does not blend in enough. Does anyone have any tips for a better result?
Waterslide Decals
- Thread starter mzuch
- Start date
erich@muttcrew.net
Well-known member
More coats of lacquer and careful - very careful - sanding. The lacquer coats are building up on top of and next to the decal, so you need to remove some of the lacquer on top of the decal to even them out. Depending on the lacquer that could mean x number of coats. When you can't see or feel the edge any more you're ready to add the final finishing coat(s).
I would do this only on the face of the headstock so that you don't end up with an unnecessary overload of lacquer on the rest.
I would do this only on the face of the headstock so that you don't end up with an unnecessary overload of lacquer on the rest.
Moore Bettah Ukuleles
Well-known member
I have only minimal experience with this but I believe you can get a pretty good result with multiple coats. I would first seal the pores and apply as many coats of lacquer that it takes to get a smooth, flat finish then apply your decal. I would then spray a few more coats on top of the lacquer, wait a few days then wet sand with 600 grit (soft block sand). Make sure you don't sand down into the decal, you're only trying to feather the edge. Spray three more coats and wait three more days and repeat the sanding. At this point the decal edge should be pretty well feathered out and a couple of more coats should finish it off. Optional: After your final coat you could wait a couple of weeks, then sand with dimishing sized grits of wet and dry (up to 2000), and buff, or just leave leave it depending upon how well your top coat turned out.
Depending upon the type of lacquer you use it could take up to a dozen coats. (You'll be sanding half of them off.) Make sure you allow plenty of time between your spraying sessions for the lacquer to dry. If you don't you'll get a tell tale edge when the lacquer is fully cured sometime down the road.
Again, I don't have too much experience with decals but it's worked for me when I've tried it.
EDIT: Erich beat me to it while I was typing. Good advice.
Depending upon the type of lacquer you use it could take up to a dozen coats. (You'll be sanding half of them off.) Make sure you allow plenty of time between your spraying sessions for the lacquer to dry. If you don't you'll get a tell tale edge when the lacquer is fully cured sometime down the road.
Again, I don't have too much experience with decals but it's worked for me when I've tried it.
EDIT: Erich beat me to it while I was typing. Good advice.
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Pete Howlett
Well-known member
I found an oversize eraser in a dollar store when I was last in canada - these make great wet sanding blocks. Not a lot of people know this but Lowden used to use a pearl veneer logo laid on top of the wood on it's guitars doing the build up the lacquer thing... best of luck. I looked into this but it's not something I want to do.
Moore Bettah Ukuleles
Well-known member
If you can't afford a trip to Canada, we've used flip-flops (they come in a variety of densities--the cheap ones are best) and even small blocks of styrofoam.
Wow, thanks so much for the enormously helpful advice. And in record time as well! I will get started on this as soon as it warms up enough to make my garage a workable spray booth.
How 'bout inkjet tshirt transfers?
hoosierhiver
Well-known member
Some kinds seem better than others. I used some waterslides that very incrediby thin and fragile, and then others are more plasticky.
erich@muttcrew.net
Well-known member
Good advice! We use all different kinds of erasers all the time - as sanding blocks, pad fillers for french polishing, grips for holding on to small stuff... Even as just plain erasers.
erich@muttcrew.net
Well-known member
Matt, I just ordered a pack of injet decal sheets. Have you had any luck with them? Or are you using a t-shirt transfer. How is your photo transfer project shaping up?
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I'm still struggling with the black and white photo emulsion. The results are inconsistent. I've begun experimenting with the tshirt transfer paper. I like what I've seen so far. It essentially traps the image between wood and a thin layer of plastic that melts into the wood. I've done several tests, and it looks good and takes polyurethane finish well. You can trim out areas without ink before pressing the image on and the poly blends the two areas together. I have a dry mount press I use for mounting photos on mat board, and it works great for putting the tshirt transfers onto wood.
thistle3585
Well-known member
I recently started using decals on my lower priced instruments and using inlay on my higher end ones. There are a number of dry transfer companies that will make decals for you that are designed to be used under lacquer. For mine, I went to a local sign maker and had him cut some logos from a "pearlessence" vinyl. A couple coats of clear shellac, flat lacquer or sanding sealer will allow me to level sand to offset the material thickness. I think they cost me $1.10 per piece. I tried a lot of different processes including the inkjet Testor kits, but when it came down to it the sign vinyl was easiest and cheapest. The inkjet kits smeared even when using the spray that is supposed to seal the ink. I don't think they are designed for use under a finish. I doubt many modelers use clear coats on their models after adhering a decal but I could be wrong.
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Flyfish57
Well-known member
When I used to build a lot of models, everything with a decal was overcoated with either a gloss or matte clear to make them sit in and look more like they were painted. I was also unhappy with the ink jet process because I couldn't print white. If I revisit the headstock decal option again, I'm going to silkscreen them myself. How thick are the pearlessence vinyl decals you've been buying?
thistle3585
Well-known member
Sorry to take so long to get back with you. The vinyl material is .003" thick. It doesn't look like like pearl but is a bit more "shimmery" than standard white. I have one that I am spraying now and will post a photo if I get a chance.
