Anyone own a Kala Acacia Tenor... help

casarole45

casarole45

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I need a bit of your Acacia knowledge for the tenor. On Jumping Fleas youtube review he says the original saddle was really loose. On mine I have the same problem, obviously when the strings are tight it pulls it tight in the saddle slot, with no strings it flaps around like a penguin in a hurrican.

I'm sending it back for repair (Kala told me to send it back to the dealer so I'm waiting on his reply) as the bridge is lifting away from the body but I need to know whether this is a fault also to get it fixed while its away...

Thanks for your help
 
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My saddle was a bit loose. I only noticed because of jumpingflea's review. From what I could tell it wasn't hurting anything but I slid a piece of paper in there to straighten it up slightly. It's still a tiny bit off but it sounds amazing so I'm not changing it.
 
My saddle is also a bit loose - but I left it that way and I don't think it affects the bridge.
 
Mine is only a couple weeks old and fortunately does not have this problem. Possibly this has been corrected in the latest batch?
 
Paul December said:
Mine is only a couple weeks old and fortunately does not have this problem. Possibly this has been corrected in the latest batch?
Click to expand...

mine as well, I ordered it a month or two ago (I think), and it didn't have any of the problems mentioned in the jumping flea's video. is your uke brand new?
 
get it fixed if I were you. You pay money for what you expect, nothing loose and no faults.. :)

Just what I would do
 
It might be helpful for people buying this model, if we post our serial numbers, and if ours is affected. If there is a pattern, they will know what numbers to avoid. Also, it might help Kala ID & fix the problem by sending out thicker saddles for the affected numbers.
Here is my number:

910 - No Problem
 
Hey there,

907 here - also no problem.

Nevertheless I changed the bridge inlay from ebony to bone because I didn't like the string spacing at all. As the strings ran down from the nut to the saddle nearly in parallel without following the outlines of the fretboard as usual. I took an old bone saddle, sanded it to the KA-ASAC-T's ebony saddle dimensions and slightly slotted it to the string spacing I took from another uke.

KA-ASAC-T_saddle.jpg
 
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As satin finished instruments look unfinished to me I usually buff them to full gloss. And after Mike Upton from Kala kindly assured to me that the KALA logo on the headstock of the KA-ASAC-T is not a decal sitting on top of the matte finish but lasered through the upper headstock layer I started the buffing in a hurry. I'm sure, not many of you ever noticed that the grain of the underlying rosewood veneer can be seen in the logo. A very cool detail perfectly hidden under that satin lacquer.
 
mik55 said:
As satin finished instruments look unfinished to me I usually buff them to full gloss. And after Mike Upton from Kala kindly assured to me that the KALA logo on the headstock of the KA-ASAC-T is not a decal sitting on top of the matte finish but lasered through the upper headstock layer I started the buffing in a hurry. I'm sure, not many of you ever noticed that the grain of the underlying rosewood veneer can be seen in the logo. A very cool detail perfectly hidden under that satin lacquer.
Click to expand...

PM Sent :)
 
Paul December said:
It might be helpful for people buying this model, if we post our serial numbers, and if ours is affected. If there is a pattern, they will know what numbers to avoid. Also, it might help Kala ID & fix the problem by sending out thicker saddles for the affected numbers.
Here is my number:

910 - No Problem
Click to expand...

I like what you're doing here Paul D.. My concert is 910 with no problem...hope you don't mind my joining in here. Frankly, after that now famous review I did have some reservations...even about a soprano or concert.
 
mik55 said:
Hey there,

907 here - also no problem.
Click to expand...

Mine is 907 also, I thought these were individual numbers... are they batch numbers?

I bought it as new a month ago but I think they added it to their catalouge in september

Thanks for the help everyone it is really useful.

and thomas, thanks also as the first thing I said about my uke when it came is it seems a bit dead sounding and not very loud, maybe this is why... (it may just be the sound of the wood, but its a possiblility)

... must go my baby is emptying the contents of the bin and apparently sampling it for flavour :eek:
 
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Cassarole,

Definitely get that saddle checked out. If it sounds dead that may help.

It shouldnt be the wood. A properly made instrument from acacia wood can be very loud and lively with a tone similar to a koa instrument.

Paul December,

I didnt mean to get an "ouch" reaction. Kala instruments are great for what they are. However, I wouldnt expect the same level of sensitivity to something like a loose saddle from a Kala that I would from a William King instrument.

Take care,
Thomas
 
In the course of this discussion, which BTW, has also been continued when discussing even having an ebony saddle itself in other threads and that ebony itself is not so good? (which I disagree with)...a comment made in the original video review keeps slipping by: that it "came set up low" or something like that...

I am NOT laying aside the loose saddle by any means, but I have to say this for future reference: I do NOT think low set ups are great in general esp. low that flirts with fret buzz but more importantly kills tone and sustain. I'm sure MGM is perfectly capable of a medium set up for those who like it really low...BUT he is responding to a need out there...

I got mine with a factory set up and I like it that way. Why? I've played Martin D-28's, OO-15's etc...BTW, a brand-new D-28 can take 5 years or more to really open up...a Taylor...it'll sound practically the same forever...which I don't like. My point: with even the saddle right and yes bone is bueno, a uke that comes with a descicant in the box that HASN"T been played and is somewhat dry does indeed need to open up and requires some good banging...and a sip of water.
 
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I have a 910 and mine was loose. I'd really like to know how you buffed yours glossy. What kind of process and supplies do I need?
 
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