Jeweler's Saw questions

Steiner

Steiner

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I bought a Zona Adjustable Jeweler's Saw and it drifts drastically to the left when I try to cut straight lines. I'd say at least 30 degrees off of straight. I'm holding the saw completely vertical and not pushing while I'm sawing and as soon as I take a long stroke it goes off on its own. I have gone through a ton of blades (I'm using 6/0 right now) and the problem is identical, so the problem is with the saw I think, or me. So, I have two questions: 1)anyone have any idea why that is happening and what to do to fix it? 2) What is a good quality Jeweler's/Piercing Saw that I could get?

Thanks
 
I have 4 saws (or more, I think), but I really only put mileage on 3 of them. I get them locally, but you can get them at Rio Grande. Stay away from the StewMac "pressure" tension saws. Haven't used a Zona, but your problem is the same on I had with an X-acto (now collecting dust, or did I give it away?).

Get a new saw frame. I use the German type (just because they're cheaper than the French), in 2 1/4", 4" and 5", or something like that. Adjustable saws have more opportunity for drift, and they're really not needed. Once you break a blade, throw it away - it was nearing its end anyway. The 4" is the "new" workhorse (used to be the 5"), but I use all three on each inlay. Its nice if you buy them in person, then you can see if the knobs line up where you want the, if there are any casting issues you need to file down, etc.

Hope this helps. - Aaron
 
Thanks for the info, at least I know I'm not totally to blame. I checked Rio Grande and the only German saws are adjustable. There is a fixed length listed as Ultralight Swiss Frame. Would you go for the fixed Swiss or the German adjustable?
 
I can't tell you what brand to buy. Mine is an old 'Eclipse' made in Sheffield, England (where I'm from) and I doubt if they are still made. What I can tell you, is that I worked for 20 years with silversmiths who were as highly skilled as any on the planet, and they wouldn't have anything to do with an adjustable saw. They also would only use Swiss files. So I'd go for the fixed Swiss.

Edit.I think the blades they used were also Swiss. They were very hard, and if they stuck, they didn't bend, they shattered. Apparently the Eclipse saw is now made by Spear and Jackson (one of the few remaining old Sheffield firms) but I don't know if they are available in the US.

http://www.spear-and-jackson.com/eclipse-piercing-saw
 
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A few things will cause that, cheap blades, not enough tension, the blade in twist, teeth too fine for the job even tension in your body etc. I've got a cheap saw and cheap blades and they work fine. These situations can be annoying though because you can't see why it's happening, that's when I get the magnifying glass out and get all analytical.
 
Dave Higham said:
I can't tell you what brand to buy. Mine is an old 'Eclipse' made in Sheffield, England (where I'm from) and I doubt if they are still made. What I can tell you, is that I worked for 20 years with silversmiths who were as highly skilled as any on the planet, and they wouldn't have anything to do with an adjustable saw. They also would only use Swiss files. So I'd go for the fixed Swiss.

Edit.I think the blades they used were also Swiss. They were very hard, and if they stuck, they didn't bend, they shattered. Apparently the Eclipse saw is now made by Spear and Jackson (one of the few remaining old Sheffield firms) but I don't know if they are available in the US.

http://www.spear-and-jackson.com/eclipse-piercing-saw
Click to expand...

A supplier based in New York:http://www.icsupply.com/itemdetail.asp?partnum=1373793&mfg=ECLIPSE
 
You do have your blade set to cut on the downstroke, right?
 
Lesson learned. You get what you pay for. I just ordered the sampler set that comes with laser gold pack of most popular sizes, a German saw, and lubricant. If anyone reading this is thinking of trying inlay, don't waste your money on the economy stuff.
 
I'm just curious: would a scroll saw obviate the need for a jeweler's saw, or would you still need the jeweler's saw?
 
It depends on what you are trying to do. If you are talking about inlay work with standard thickness shell blanks, a jeweller's saw frame with a blade size of #1 (51 tpi) or #2 (43 tpi) is the right tool. Some use a blade as fine as a 2/0 (61 tpi) or 3/0 (66 tpi) for fine work and/or thinner shell.
 
The basic idea is to pick a blade size that has a minimum of 3 teeth in contact with the surface being cut. The Rio Grande tools catalog contains a chart showing TPI for each size. Eventually, you'll find a blade size you like best and can save some money by buying them a gross at a time. For example, current Rio Grande pricing on a dozen 2/0 laser gold blades is $3.73, but you can buy a gross for $23.04
 
I take it scroll saws just don't have that high of a TPI count? I did a quick search and the highest I saw was 42 TPI.
 
When you mention scroll saws, do you mean a motorized parallel frame saw like a Hegner or do you mean a hand held saw frame ?

If you mean the former, they can be pretty aggressive, even the variable speed ones, and they usually break fine blades pretty quickly. You also don't have the fine control available with a hand held jeweller's saw used with a traditional bench block.

If you mean the latter, they are more suitable for use with heavier blades to cut thicker materials. These frames don't have the correct balance and back tension appropriate for use with fine blades. A good Swiss or German jeweller's saw with a quality fine blade is a pleasure to use and sings as it works.

A variable speed scroll saw is more likely to be used in a luthier's shop for cutting the decorative detail on the top of headstocks and things like that, if at all.
 
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We iin the industrialized world are a little spoilt by the easy availability of all manner of tools and things like laser gold blades in any size imaginable, delivered to our door virtually on demand. There is an interesting photo in one of Oppi Untracht's books, IIRC either his Jewellry Concepts book or the Traditional Jewellry of India book, showing a young Indian artisan performing the most delicate and beautiful piercework with a jeweller's saw frame and blades he made from a thin piece of steel wire sourced from a worn out tire.The teeth were formed by hand notching the wire with a sharp knife.
 
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