I've listened to your comments...

The three main concerns for anyone building for the first time are:

• How do I bend the sides?
• How do I carve the neck?
• How do I set the string length?

I've reviewed my videos on YouTube and have decided to redo the two videos that cover these operations in greater step-by-step detail and add a new one on string length to help and inspire those who are trying to get their heads around these operations.

The bending one will show the hot-pipe method; this really is the beginning and end of the journey because it is a skill unique to luthiery whereas all others are transferable from wood hand crafts. I'll break down the videos into 2-3 minute shorts and include more of the instruction which I often edit out from the 10 - 20 minutes of footage I shoot.

The neck carving one will show setting out, cutting regime, use of templates for accuracy and the all important heel carve. It will detail the tools I use and how to get a proper volute behind the nut and the barrel-nut method used to bolt the neck in place.

I'll show you my rule of thumb set up for ukulele that specifically ignores saddle compensation and arrives at a really good working solution - you'll be surprised at my thinking here...

Please be patient because this isn't going to happen overnight. What I hope to achieve is to show you that it truly is not difficult to get started and make a good job of it. It has to be more than a leap of faith and these will help you get kick started on that great road some of us are privileged to travel every day!

I won't be surprised, Pete, if you are going to propose the "Rule of Eighteen" for arriving at fret positions. It was used for centuries, and was found to be satisfactory. I have worked with the divisor 18, and the results are very interesting. Built-in compensation, Folks!

John Colter.

Thanks Pete, that's a grand idea. If we could get Seeso to make a sticky out of those coupla vids, with links to threads where these topics were discussed ad nauseum, that could be a real handy resource, right at the top of the lounge.

Neck carving has been the thing that has kept me from even beginning the attempt to build. Thanks for doing this - and all your other videos - Pete! I'm looking forward to seeing the new ones.

I very much look forward to these. One on how to avoid sand-throughs during finishing would also be helpful to me as a beginner as I'm struggling with that issue right now.

Thanks Pete. I really appreciate your willingness and that of others here, to be helpful to those of us just starting out.

I wish I could do the rub through one with confidence - especially since I have done that on 3 instruments recently!!!

Pete Howlett said:

...I'll show you my rule of thumb set up for ukulele that specifically ignores saddle compensation and arrives at a really good working solution - you'll be surprised at my thinking here...

Click to expand...

I'm eagerly waiting for this one. I'm looking up this rule of 18 now. Thanks Pete & ukantor.

What I found from searching "bridge rule of 18" ... I laughed.
http://www.bridgeguys.com/Conventions/Rule18.html

Good to hear you're showing more hot pipe bending. It really is the most fun way to bend wood.
Maybe it would be good to show how cheap a pipe set up can be.....not so indimidating to try if it only cost 20 bucks at the hardware store.

There are some great illustrations of DIY pipe setups so I won't need to cover that. It will be more - "Follow the heat" and imagine the shape of your uke as you bend. I'll also look at critical thickness issues and 'springing to the mould'. And how to rebend a set of sides you have bent the wrong way round too....

The neck one sounds great Pete - couldn't persuade you to change the bolt on method shown to one using a threaded insert??

Gerry

Thank you Pete in anticipation of the new videos. I'll really look forward to the one on strings. I have LOTS of partially composed questions you may answer without my having to figure out what to ask.

I will deal with a number of neck joins EXCEPT the dovetail and Spanish heel ... I really can't see the point of these type of highly crafted joints (and yes I can hand cut both...) for such a small instrument. We could have a long discussion about this - it's traditional, it shows quality. However, unless you are used to cabinet making/joinery both are hard to execute without some sort of power tool and the Spanish heel, though great for neck alignment allows for little or no errors so the jig making process that supports it involves a whole other set of skills. So, after opening that can of worms I'll go and give my Canadian grandson his breakfast!

ksquine said:

not so indimidating to try if it only cost 20 bucks at the hardware store.

Click to expand...

That's not what's intimidating. What's intimidating is the risk of breaking or burning the side from a b&s set that cost you 50 bucks (plus 30 bucks shipping!)

Matt Clara said:

Thanks Pete, that's a grand idea. If we could get Seeso to make a sticky out of those coupla vids, with links to threads where these topics were discussed ad nauseum, that could be a real handy resource, right at the top of the lounge.

Click to expand...

If you (or someone) get the links to me I'll take a look.

drumgerry said:

The neck one sounds great Pete - couldn't persuade you to change the bolt on method shown to one using a threaded insert??

Gerry

Click to expand...

Inserts are weak and will pull out of softer woods such as Spanish cedar. A captive bolt is a lot sronger.

Have I read somewhere Chuck of them being epoxied in place? In effect taking the outside threads of the inserts out of the equation?

Gerry

I used thin super glue in Spanish Cedar but however hard I tried and despite using a quality lip and spur drill, always seemed to get the bit wandering off centre. However since experimenting I have found the barrel-bolt superior because this don't happen with a 6mm drill bit. So, yet again, Chuck has the answer. As I said before - shoulders of giants.

This maybe should be in a new thread but no matter...

Pete in the instruments I've built so far I've used barrel bolts ( I think Cumpiano maybe revised his neck attachment method to use them and that's where I found out about them) but they were used in a mortise and tenor joint. I'm guessing using barrel bolts for uke necks requires a similar arrangement? I like the simplicity of using a simple butt joint on a neck but maybe just for mahogany/sapele necks.

Gerry

It's set up in the same manner as a threaded insert, only you use the cross dowel hardware. It's very simple, adjustable and removable.