Nitrocellulose in a can? (spray/aerosol can, that is)

Matt Clara

Matt Clara

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I'm looking for some "instrument grade" nitrocellulose lacquer in a spray can to use on upcoming builds. All I see on StewMac is the ColorTone Aerosol Guitar Lacquer, which claims to be a traditional nitro lacquer. Anyone use the stuff? On my most recent build I used a can of Deft Clear Wood Finish, which I know is considered too hard a cure for stringed instruments (s'not instrument grade, see), but I had struggled with poly, both water and oil based, both spray and brush on, and I wanted something different. The Deft went on beautifully. Following the directions, I applied 7 coats (directions recommend a minimum of three), a half an hour apart. At one point I noticed a sag where I'd applied too much. I waited until the end of the 30 minute drying cycle, sanded the sag out, and then continued on as before, and you can't even tell there was ever a problem there. Stark contrast with my polyurethane experience(s). So now I'm on the prowl for the instrument grade poly in a spray can, see? Any advice?
 
Matt Clara said:
I'm looking for some "instrument grade" nitrocellulose lacquer in a spray can to use on upcoming builds. All I see on StewMac is the ColorTone Aerosol Guitar Lacquer, which claims to be a traditional nitro lacquer. Anyone use the stuff? On my most recent build I used a can of Deft Clear Wood Finish, which I know is considered too hard a cure for stringed instruments (s'not instrument grade, see), but I had struggled with poly, both water and oil based, both spray and brush on, and I wanted something different. The Deft went on beautifully. Following the directions, I applied 7 coats (directions recommend a minimum of three), a half an hour apart. At one point I noticed a sag where I'd applied too much. I waited until the end of the 30 minute drying cycle, sanded the sag out, and then continued on as before, and you can't even tell there was ever a problem there. Stark contrast with my polyurethane experience(s). So now I'm on the prowl for the instrument grade poly in a spray can, see? Any advice?
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yes I just finish a stewmac tenor and used it . It worked great im going to use it on my next build. If your going to do a tenor I suggest 3 cans maybe 4
 
Matt I posted a sound sample of it and you can see the finished product . I dont know how to give the link but its on the 2nd page of this forum the title is stewmac sound sample. Im pleased with it it buffed out really nice
 
I'm in between coats as I write. The spray cans work fine. The finish goes on a little rougher than with an HVLP setup, leaving a mild orange peel texture that must be gently sanded away. Get four cans. Spray coats according to the directions until you've used up three of them; leave the fourth for emergency touchup in case, like me, you sand through the finish.
 
I wish I remembered the specifics, but I overheard my husband talking to a contractor/carpenter/painter we hired to do some interior finishing work and I swear I remember him saying something about spray-based nitrocelluose being banned in California because of the toxic fumes.
 
Flyfish57 said:
I used this on a headstock and it buffed up really nice...Sprayed well for a bugbomb.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/ProductPage.aspx?prodid=24114
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That's funny. I was down at a local wood working shop that carries Behlen's, and they told me the stringed instrument lacquer doesn't come in a spray can. NO SALE!

I did a little research and some people say the Behlen's is too soft. They also say the Deft is too hard. I suspect either would be fine. I'll try some ColorTone just because the price is right in between the two.
 
dave g said:
I use Ace Hardware's store brand. Seems like good stuff to me.
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No kidding--I was up there the other day and all I saw was Deft. I'll look again at the Ace brands. If you haven't tried Deft, it's $6 a can at Lowe's, and went on quite nicely. Are you using a sealer, or are you applying lacquer directly to the bare wood?
 
Bare wood. Sand between the first three coats, then two or three final coats.
 
Matt Clara said:
That's funny. I was down at a local wood working shop that carries Behlen's, and they told me the stringed instrument lacquer doesn't come in a spray can. NO SALE!

I did a little research and some people say the Behlen's is too soft. They also say the Deft is too hard. I suspect either would be fine. I'll try some ColorTone just because the price is right in between the two.
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I didn't find it soft, but I let it cure over four or five days before wet sanding and buffing it.
 
Matt I tried the Ace brand stuff and it worked good. I got it from a post that Dave G posted, Thanks Dave G.
It was easy for me because on that build I wanted a satin finish. I just went over it with 000 steel wool. But if I wanted it shinny it would have worked too.
Dan
 
StewMac indicates 3-4 cans of nitro for a uke. If these cans, which are the same size as the Deft I've been using (nearly an ounce bigger, actually), spray the same, that'll total something like 40-50 coats of nitro. That seems insane to me--anyone follow their advice?
 
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I use Deft on all my instruments without issue. The one time I tried something else it crackled. I wipe on 2-3 coats of shellac then rub it out with fine steel wool followed by 6-8 coats of Deft. If I use the gloss Deft, which I don't really like, I will go 8-12 coats. The thing about Deft, as in most rattle can sprays, they use a hotter solvent as a propellant to prevent it from drying as soon as it atomizes coming out of the spray tip. You have to shake it for a couple minuted before using it otherwise you risk shooting out just the propellant which results in it melting the finish that you have already sprayed as well as causing "fisheyes" in subsequent coats. I'd recommend getting the airbrush set from StewMac for $18.00 and then buying Deft in quart cans. That's cheaper then buying 3-4 rattle cans and you can use the airbrush for spraying bursts in the future. I prefer using the semi-gloss because it has a little bit more body to it and doesn't seem to run as easily and it buffs out to a high gloss. For opaque colors, you can't go wrong using Reranch products. One can will do an instrument.
 
thistle3585 said:
I use Deft on all my instruments without issue. The one time I tried something else it crackled. I wipe on 2-3 coats of shellac then rub it out with fine steel wool followed by 6-8 coats of Deft. If I use the gloss Deft, which I don't really like, I will go 8-12 coats. The thing about Deft, as in most rattle can sprays, they use a hotter solvent as a propellant to prevent it from drying as soon as it atomizes coming out of the spray tip. You have to shake it for a couple minuted before using it otherwise you risk shooting out just the propellant which results in it melting the finish that you have already sprayed as well as causing "fisheyes" in subsequent coats. I'd recommend getting the airbrush set from StewMac for $18.00 and then buying Deft in quart cans. That's cheaper then buying 3-4 rattle cans and you can use the airbrush for spraying bursts in the future. I prefer using the semi-gloss because it has a little bit more body to it and doesn't seem to run as easily and it buffs out to a high gloss. For opaque colors, you can't go wrong using Reranch products. One can will do an instrument.
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Hey thanks--sounds like good advice. Can you recommend an appropriate compressor that won't break the bank?
 
I use my standard shop compressor which is a pretty large unit. I believe the airbrush hose has a 1/2" female pipe thread nut on it so I put a valve with a dial on it where it connects to my airhose so that I can adjust the air at that point instead of at the compressor. It makes it easier so I can swap between different airtools without having to go change the pressure on the compressor all the time. Anything that can maintain 40 PSI should be more than sufficient, but I'd get something that you could eventually use with other pneumatic tools like orbital sanders. You should also be concerned about getting moisture from condensation in the line. An inline water trap that you can bleed off before you spray is a great asset. Even better if it has a pressure regulator on it. If your just spraying clear lacquer then I think that you can get an inexpensive detail gun instead of the airbrush. It will move more material but wont give you the high quality spray of an expensive HVLP, and the only real downside is that you may need to start sanding with a lower grit paper to get rid of the orange peel.

Andrew
 
Matt Clara said:
StewMac indicates 3-4 cans of nitro for a uke. If these cans, which are the same size as the Deft I've been using (nearly an ounce bigger, actually), spray the same, that'll total something like 40-50 coats of nitro. That seems insane to me--anyone follow their advice?
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That's ridiculous! I'd guess I use a third of a can on a single ukulele, tops.
 
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