Purpose of a zero fret?

So I noticed the zero fret on my fluke's fretboard, and then I noticed some sellers actually make it a point to mention the zero fret on ukes with plastic fret boards for example the old Maccaferri plastic ukuleles.

Well other than the fact that they actually sound incredibly important, what does the zero fret do for plastic fretboards? I just guess it has something to do with the intonation

You know, I wondered the same thing a couple weeks ago, when I heard someone mention the zero fret. At the time I googled it, and found the Wikipedia article,and a video of the most boring guy to ever hold a freaky guitar, but I still don't QUITE get it. Maybe it's just because my uke doesn't have one, so I haven't actually seen one...

As I understand, all it does is hold the strings at an optimum height above the fretboard, but I feel like I'm still missing something there...

Essentially, it's a method of construction for accurate intonation by taking away the role and variables of the nut. It's used most often to manufacture accurate, yet inexpensive molded fretboards. Generally it replaces the nut altogether, and thus cuts manufacturing costs.

I can't speak for ukuleles (and especially those with moulded fretboards), but on guitars and bass guitars, the zero fret is also a way to make the tone of open strings similar to fretted ones. On guitar and bass, the difference in tone between fretted and open strings is quite noticable (at least to me). It sorta makes sense as the string is vibrating against different materials, metal for frets and plastic/bone/wood for the nut.

Here are some helpful threads:

http://www.ukuleleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?25308

http://www.ukuleleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?17038

http://www.ukuleleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?9806

whatthekoon said:

[...] the zero fret is also a way to make the tone of open strings similar to fretted ones. On guitar and bass, the difference in tone between fretted and open strings is quite noticable (at least to me). It sorta makes sense as the string is vibrating against different materials, metal for frets and plastic/bone/wood for the nut.

Click to expand...

Yup, this is one of the most interesting things about zero frets. It is a noticeable difference in the way the open strings ring out - a bit like the difference in the timbre of open strings when you have a capo on.

I don't think zero frets make such a big difference on 'ukuleles, but on metal strung instruments they are more significant. I quite like them on mandolins and bouzoukis. Fylde mandolins and 'zouks feature zero frets.

I'll probably use a zero fret on the build I'm prepping at the moment.

The only downside I've encoutered with zero frets is that occasionally, as there are two surfaces for the string to pass over before reaching the tuners (zero fret and nut) the friction can make tuning a tiny bit more work. On some instruments you have to strum the strings hard a few times between each adjustment to ensure that the string has moved all it's going to.

Yes, if you think about it, the nut really serves 3 completely separate functions:

1. String spacing across fingerboard, 2. String height above fingerboard, 3. Stop point for intonation (scale length).

The zero fret just assigns 2. and 3. to a dedicated fret, and leaves the nut to handle 1. only. Given that 2. and 3. are the trickiest things about a nut, requiring a good setup, this arrangement is a definite manufacturing advantage on a plastic fingerboard. Especially when the nut is molded into the fingerboard and not really adjustable.

I'm sure the main reason it gets mentioned prominently is not to make it sound more important, but simply because it's not the norm.

MTGuru said:

Yes, if you think about it, the nut really serves 3 completely separate functions:

1. String spacing across fingerboard, 2. String height above fingerboard, 3. Stop point for intonation (scale length).

The zero fret just assigns 2. and 3. to a dedicated fret, and leaves the nut to handle 1. only. Given that 2. and 3. are the trickiest things about a nut, requiring a good setup, this arrangement is a definite manufacturing advantage on a plastic fingerboard. Especially when the nut is molded into the fingerboard and not really adjustable.

I'm sure the main reason it gets mentioned prominently is not to make it sound more important, but simply because it's not the norm.

Click to expand...

Good explanation. Does that not make the action at the nut/zero fret non-adjustable? Would you not be "stuck" with the set-up that the zero fret dictates?

Yes, your action would be fixed, I imagine.
Perhaps it could be adjusted at the saddle a bit.

But a zero fret is supposed to give an 'ideal' action anyway.
Risa uke-sticks come with zero frets, and it was the most comfortable action I ever felt on a uke. Nice n low.

On a moulded fretboard the action would be pretty much fixed. Maybe you could lower it, but I doubt you'd ever need or want to. Raising it... I don't see that being possible.

On a wooden board raising the action is as simple as changing the zero fret for a taller one. Even though I'm not keen on working on frets generally, I've changed a couple of zero frets on old acoustic guitars (including my old Eko Ranger). For me it's quicker than cutting and fitting a new nut.

I just can't explain how different is a zero fret but what I do know is from all the ukes that I owned from Koaloha, Kanilea to all my custom ukes. The Pahu Kani custom that I own do have a zero fret and it's by far the easiest and confortable uke to play from all my collection of ukes.

There is something special but I just can't explain what makes it different on the feeling when you play.