Removing Anti-Glare Spray from surface of Ukulele?

I just picked up an inexpensive Lanikai Lanikai S-B Baritone Ukulele. It has a solid spruce top and mahog sides/back. Rosewood fretboard. It was sold as a blem due to the following. "THIS ITEM WAS SELECTED BY LANIKIA TO BE USED AS THE PROTOTYPE TO BE PHOTGRAPHED FOR THE IMAGES FOR THEIR WEBSITE. IN ORDER TO CAPTURE THE PHOTOS THE UKE WAS SPRAYED WITH AN ANTI GLARE SPRAY. THIS SPRAY WAS APPLIED TO THE ENTIRE UKUELE, WHICH CAUSES A DULLING AND SPOTTING EFFECT ON THE FINISH AND HARDWARE."

I just received this ukulele and obviously the wood feels gritty due to the overspray. I am thinking that it probably can be cleaned up with some cleaner. I am thinking about trying to clean it up with Naptha. Does that sound right or not? Something better? Any thoughts appreciated and I realize that I am the only one responsible if I muck this up....

First let me say I don't know the product they used. I do know in the past when I used to shoot the shiny surfaces of some of my art work, it was common to spray on Aqua-Net hair spray to reduce glare. The stuff was water soluable and simply washed off with water. You might want to try that first.

:agree:
This same guy has had numerous Lanikai ukes with exactly the same heading...I wonder what they are thinking! I do agree that starting out with the least destructive method first is probably a good idea before I used anything as potent as naptha, I might suggest auto paint swirl remover and a SOFT cotton pad to take the material off without removoing the finish my gut reaction from seeing the photos off the other "offerings" is that they used clear enamel like the stuff used on bathroom windows to frost them...anyway, good luck and let us know how it goes! Worse comes to worse, I suppose you could completely strip it and refinish it!

Well I did find this quote from a reputable guitar guy.... * Naphtha (lighter fluid) is a great cleaner for guitars, it is also a degreaser and can be used on all parts of a guitar, but it does leave a fine haze to the finish after it dries which can be removed with guitar polish or a damp rag. This product will not harm lacquer finishes, and certainly not polyurethane or polyester finishes. Use lightly on a rag (more dry than wet). I Probably will give this a try tomorrow... Will let you know if it was a good idea or not........Thanks to all for your ideas

I can't believe that a professional photographer would use a spray that needs a solvent to remove it. I honestly doubt if that is the case. Do a bit of homework on what photographers use. It looks like Krylon Dulling Spray is commonly used by photographers. Here is the description on it's use and removal:

Dulling spray creates a temporary dull finish to reduce glare on items to be photographed or videotaped. Coast evenly and effectively. Simplifies lighting arrangements.

* Easy to remove
* Leaves no marks
* Semi-drying formula

Directions

* PREPARE SURFACE by ensuring that it is clean and dry. Mask any area that you do not want to spray.
* For BEST RESULTS, apply at a temperature of 70° to 80°F. Do not spray when humidity is high.
* TEST SPRAY an inconspicuous area and check removability. Film may bond permanently to some materials such as plastic, painted, or lacquered surfaces.
* TO APPLY, hold can 8 to 10 inches from surface. Begin at closest edge and stroke left to right across the surface and beyond edge, overlapping each stroke slightly. Adjust rate of stroke to produce an even, smooth glossy wetness.
* TO REMOVE, rub gently under running water or sponge with a wet cloth. Also removable by sponging with rubbing alcohol or dry cleaning solvent. Comes out of clothes when washed or dry cleaned.

Moore Bettah Ukuleles said:

I can't believe that a professional photographer would use a spray that needs a solvent to remove it. I honestly doubt if that is the case. Do a bit of homework on what photographers use. It looks like Krylon Dulling Spray is commonly used by photographers. Here is the description on it's use and removal:

Click to expand...

That may be the case, and it certainly is the place to start, but if it's easy to clean off, I don't understand why the manufacturer didn't just clean them up and sell them for full price.

Well, I am having fun now..... Luckily this is a cheapo ukulele. I tried cleaning the overspray off with water... Nothing. Next I tried som Napha.... Nothing. Next I tried denatured alcohol... nothing. What did happen is that the back of the uke has turned white. When the back is wet with alcohol it is clear and looks great.... then within seconds it starts to cloud up white. Me thinks I might be hanging this uke on the wall... What exactly does it mean when the finish turns white. I know it can't be good. I'm not worried if I have to count this as a learning experience but maybe it still can be saved???? Any ideas, other than DON'T DO IT!!!!!

What's it sound like, and play like ????..thats the main thing..all the rest is just cosmetic...It's a musical instrument not an ornement.

OK.... Finally got the white haze off of the back. I ended up using mineral spirits and 000 steel wool. Lucky for me there was a satin finish on the back and not glossy. No more overspray on the back. I don't see a real problem with using steel wool on the back but I am sure this is probably a horrible thing to do ..... but in this case it came out fine. I put some polish on the back and it looks as good as new (actually better). I do have some slight overspray on the solid spruce top but I am not going to tackle that. I feel lucky to have survived the mahogany back. Kids don't try this at home...