How important is the taper?

Showing my ignorance yet again, but I'm in the process of designing a "Retro Illustration" style solidbody electric ukulele (which may or may not be built, but I'm having fun designing different freaky ukuleles!) and I had a thought.

How important is the taper of the neck?

A few weeks ago, I did an illustration for Ukulele Mike, as part of a "Musicians that have helped me on my way" series (I did one of Aldrine, as well, of course!). The neck of the ukulele in the pic actually tapers the other way, thickening as it goes up the neck. You know what? It's easier to show...



Now, I don't think I'd like a reverse taper, but would making the neck straight be a bad thing?
i.e. no taper.

Actually, would a reverse taper be a bad thing, while I'm asking? Just so I know, like, "Yeah... don't even think about that" kinda things.

Here's the Aldrine one, too, just to show kinda the idea I was thinking for the body of the ukulele, only I'm thinking going even further with the stylization.



Any other thoughts on this? I WILL be keeping balance in mind, as well as weight.

As you down the neck and the frets get closer together, the wider string spacing that the increasing taper allows gives your fingers a little more room to form the chords.
(Who's Ukulele Mike?)

YouTube Ukulele Teacher. He's one of the folks that has helped me a LOT in progressing with the ukulele.
I'd put him and Aldrine top of the heap for me.

Thanks for the reply, Mr. Moore.

If you don't mind a follow up... would cheating a little, i.e. spacing the strings, but perhaps a little less, or spacing them a smidge wider at the top, and not tapering the neck be a horrific thing to do?
Like I said, I may not even do this, just looking for info. Just interested in what the hard and fast rules are and which ones can be bent a little...

What I would probably do, so it's certainly not recommended, is *try it*. Then I could come back and tell you all how well it worked...or didn't.

Great minds... or twisted ones, I'm not sure which!... think alike! *grin*

Thing is, I'm not terribly experienced with stringed instruments. When I played violin, I played just the one. I assume it was a good one because my grandfather got it for me and he knew what he was doing, but I have no idea whether it was or not, y'know?

Then again, I'm making this for my own personal use, so I guess it doesn't really matter *grin*, as long as it works for me...

I'll play with it and see.

Moore Bettah Ukuleles said:

(Who's Ukulele Mike?)

Click to expand...

Best youtube resource for learning ukulele, bar none.

I think Chuck is right it is done for ease in playing. Not only to give you more room at the higher frets but to ease in barring chords near the nut. On a four string, nylon strung ukulele this is probably not a big deal but it would be a huge difference on a guitar. If you go wide at the nut tapering down to skinny at the saddle it might have an effect on the sound produced by the bridge on an acoustic instrument. I doubt it would change the sound on a solidbody electric. And until you go past the twelth fret it would not decrease room for chording.

Good point, Philstix. Hadn't thought of that. I'm still messing around with ideas and stuff, but am getting closer to something that I like.

Holiday tomorrow (first day of Summer!), so I might hop into the workshop and play with roughing something out...

I have a pile of stuff from experiments that didn't work out quite like I wanted them to. I'm saving up until I have enough for a nice bonfire. I'm a lot closer to the bonfire than need be if I would have followed sage advice from those that have been doing this a while. Still, sometimes I wonder why such and such wouldn't work and try it. Then add it to the pile and learn the lesson. If you're dead set on trying this, at least do a bolt on neck, not a spanish heel, helps keep the pile smaller, just in case.

Cool illistrations!!

Twodogs, yer cracking me up! I was thinking those exact words when reading your post. "I best do a bolt on to keep the pile smaller..."
I've been obsessing about it all day, filling 6 pages of drawings, trying to figure stuff out. I got a bajillion questions to go with all that figuring.
I'm gonna try to get them organized in my head, then post 'em here. What I love about this place is that I know I'll get answers to all of them...
What's infuriating is that I'm sure there's gonna be 15 grajillion more questions afterwards! *grin*
But I'm sure you lot'll get me through it...

Thanks, ksquine. Glad you like!

I played a lovely japanese concert uke (forgot the name, but high end) last year, it had almost no taper at all. Surprisingly playable, and beautiful.

Reverse taper seems like an idea worth not testing.

Sven

I am not a luthier, but I think it has to do with the strength of the neck, and in nature trees grow that way as well.... thick at the base and thin at the top......

Another bit of "profound thinking" on my part is that the neck should be narrower near the nut, when you want your pinkie to touch a string over a five fret spacing. The thinner portion of the neck allows your fretting hand to carry out these acrobatics somewhat easier . Near the soundhole these acrobatics are not done as there are no more frets .