Mini Table Saws

70sSanO

70sSanO

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I'm in the process of experimenting with different types of wood for a saddle, and maybe a nut... Red Henry's mandolin bridge site has really intrigued me on the use of different wood types.

Last time I did an ebony nut and saddle I did it on my 10" Craftsman table saw, a somewhat harrowing experience.

Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive Jarmac clone for $40. Has anyone used this or any other ideas?

Since it is going to be of limited use, I wouldn't mind a good hand saw-mitrebox-rip setup. I'm not sure how to accurately rip small pieces of hardwood. I figure someone has done binding and inlay and may have a suggestion.

Thanks for any info.

John
 
You can still use your large table saw but make yourself a Zero Clearance blade insert. Most important for all work but especially so on small pieces. I've got several for different size blades and tilts. Ie ones for 45 degree tilt with my large ripping blade, and others for various other tasks. I make mine out of MDF to fit the insert. Use your factory supplied one as a template. Then to use you just crank up the running blade so it slices through the MDF from the under side.

Next is to get yourself a small, fine kerf blade. You don't need to be swinging a 10" blade for most luthier work. I've got a 6" blade that is designed for a battery powered trim saw. It cuts through hardwood like a hot knife if butter, and it's a lot safer to be using in tasks like you are describing.

And don't forget to use feather boards. both to keep the workpiece tight to the fence, and down on the table. Finally, push sticks. If you need a narrower one, then make one.
 
Stop encouraging him for heaven's sake. A table saw is no the right tool for what he wants to do, especially if he has no training in its use! Save me mother :(
 
I really wanted to post on how you can set up a table saw for doing fine work on small parts but really alot of it depends on your dexterity and experence . Table saws are famous for grabbing and throwing parts and kicking back so Im going to bow out of this one
 
Pete Howlett said:
Stop encouraging him for heaven's sake. A table saw is no the right tool for what he wants to do, especially if he has no training in its use! Save me mother :(
Click to expand...

Sorry, I was thinking bridge instead of nut and saddle. I'd make them by hand myself.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks everyone for the replies!

I did some research on bandsaws and there are a lot of different reviews with varying quality. A lot of problems with bearings wearing out, not cutting straight, plus the biggest factor is convincing my wife to put another 70+ lb tool in the garage.

I found a used 4" Proxxon saw that a lot of hobby people use to cut small wooden planks for model boats and model railroaders use for railroad ties. Supposedly it will cut hardwood up to 1" thick, if it will cut half that I'll be happy.

I think that is the way I'm going to go.

When I cut an ebony saddle on my 10 inch table it was from a block of ebony so that helped a lot. I'm cutting from small pieces this time.

John
 
I taught woodworking/cabinetmaking for years to a wide age range of people from middle schoolers to adults. The rule in my shop was nothing went to the table saw less than 1/2 x 4 x 12. Anything smaller than that goes to the bandsaw. I still have all ten of my fingers and (to the best of my knowledge) so do all of my students...even those who now make their living in a woodshop. It's been a while since I looked at the data regarding injuries in the woodshop (I no longer teach and therefore no longer have to be prepared to defend myself in court) but I would bet that the number one machine involved in serious accidents is still the table saw. Most folks think the danger of a kick back is that the wood will hit you as you stand behind the blade. In fact, even if the board doesn't hit you, it will likely pull your hand back into the blade. My goal has always been to be able to walk into a crowded bar and order five beers with one hand. Well...I have other more important goals, but you know what I mean.
 
We use a Proxxon in the stringing room for small tasks, such as trimming down saddles. While I'm a table saw fanatic and have the injuries to document my journey, small parts are difficult to cut, if you lack experience. As Pete and many others have mentioned, a bandsaw is a safer method for smaller pieces. While you don't get the same linear accuracy as a tablesaw, the risk factor is dramatically lessened. Better to spend some extra time sanding, than in a hospital room. If you use one of those little ones, it should handle what you want to do adequately.
 
I have never understood the loyalty to the table saw in the US. I still see practice in Fine Woodworking and the copious YouTube videos where this tool is operated sans riving knife and guards, where the arbor is ganged up for dado cutting or multiple cutting as in kerfed linings - practices long ago banned in the UK. If you get a good bandsaw, align the wheels properly and do a little basic setup preparation to it, you will find that you can cut very straight lines and do most cutting operations required in ukulele making. Please be careful - the only significant workshop accidents I have ever had requiring A&E treatment have been from a table saw...
 
Yep....the only thing I would expand on regarding the bandsaw set up is to make sure that you have a good fence and a good sharp blade of the proper width. I'm always amazed when I see folks ripping with a 1/4" blade and no fence and they complain about not getting a straight cut. I think a lot of people don't like to take the time to swap out bandsaw blades and try to make due with one size that they often allow to get too dull before changing. Keep it sharp, change it out, make sure the guides are adjusted properly (and you don't need the BIG $ roller guides...though they are nice), and keep your fingers.
 
I still have to figure this out. As someone who plays a ukulele, the last thing I want to do is something stupid and not be able to play.

I do agree that there is a point where a Proxxon is not safe. I think the smallest starting size I will go with to rip will be around 1 inch wide wide x 5 or 6 inches long.

I dont mind working a lot of it by hand, I just need some straight edges to begin with.

John
 
John

If you don't mind me saying... what you want us to do is approve your purchase of a mini table saw. I actually don't think you want advice as such. If that is the case then go ahead, buy it; I even authorize you to do so ;)

I love my bandsaw, don't have a table saw and don't even see the need for one because I get my straight edges with a No15 Millers Falls foreplane with a keenly honed edge. Over to the bandsaw with its 1/4" 6tpi blade which i can use for straight or curved cuts and when I need to do some one off resawing of ribs it still works great giving a straight cut.

The thing that did it for me was James Krenov's first book on cabinet making. He details how to set up a bandsaw. Never looked back. Interesting fact - Joel Eckhaus went to Krenov's woodworking school...
 
The only power tool that I own is a Bandsaw. I did think of buying a Proxxon for making and cutting up herringbone patterns but given the price I decided against. I'm glad I did. I have a very cheap Chinese Bandsaw that cuts extremely well, that is after I did a few simple modifications as well as a decent set up. Put in a thin kerf 14 TPI blade and it's almost a finish cut.
 
Please Close This Thread!

I think this thread should be closed. I'm not trying to cause any friction.

I am only going to be making a few saddles and probably only a nut or two for a single ukulele. I really wanted a good way to hand cut the material, something like a closed end mitre box with end slots every 1/16" or so to rip small pieces. But I haven't found anyone who makes anything like that. Harbor Freight sells this really junkie mini table saw, so I thought I would ask.

I do appreciate the responses and will take them into consideration; especially the advice on exercising safety.

Thanks!

John
 
john - hold to your views. We are all friends here and no-one is trying to dis you or bait you. Using a mechanical tool is too often the route novices go to without actually considering the more Zen like apporach of hand tools. besides, spending money on an expensive piece of equipment that will rarely be used seems a bit odd to me... and this is the man with 13 routers!
 
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