Bridge Pin Missile- Yikes

Lori

Lori

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So, I am changing my strings on my Kanile'a, and I have heard a few stories about flying bridge pins. I had time to put the G string on last night, and tonight I continued with the others. As I was putting in the third or second string, the G bridge pin came shooting out at alarming force and ricocheted off the ceiling, sprinkling bits of cottage cheese acoustic on my uke. The string was still in place... not loose, so I don't know what happened really. I have a bead and a knot on each string, and maybe that had something to do with it. I was also using new Stew Mac Slotted Snakewood/ abalone pins instead of the original black plastic ones with the white dots. The new ones stick up a little higher than the originals, but the fit is tight. Anyway, how long should I be cautious around these settling bridge pins, and did I do something wrong? I would like to avoid the problem next time. I am really glad I wasn't leaning too far over the uke when it went off!

–Lori
 
hey lori,

remove the bead. It is not needed and actually pulls up against the bottom of the bridge pin..... as you tightened the string, it stretched and got thinner, letting the bridge pin fly loose.
here is a diagram i created a while ago to help a fellow user change his strings(worth browns)
form.jpg
 
also, once strung properly, you should be able to remove the bridge pin while the uke is strung and tuned.
the way the kanile'a is built... the bridge pins are mainly for aesthetics

if your knot is too large, it will also give you the same shooting effect.
(I may be wrong and this may not be true for all kanile'as, so please correct me)
 
any advice on how to make the right kinda knot and how big... mine i know are pretty big right now.. they just wouldnt stay unlesss i made them bigger
 
mokai said:
form.jpg
Click to expand...

As shown and emphasized in the diagram, make sure the knot or bead is snug against the bottom of the bridge plate and not hooked to the bottom of the bridge pin.
 
Nice diagram! Thanks for the responses. Should I tighten the string before placing the bridge pin in the hole? The knotted string won't sit tight in the groove without some string tension on it. I was using the bridge pin to help position the string so that when I tightened it, it would settle into the groove. My old A string was stuck in the bridge slot, and it took a bit of work to remove it. I ended up having to cut the string inside the pin hole, and then working the last bit free with some tweezers. I think that string had a bead on it originally, but the bead slipped off over the tightened knot. I kind of hoped the addition of a bead would keep the string from digging into the wood and getting stuck. Any more thoughts pro or con on using beads with bridge pins?
–Lori
 
MGM said:
Kanilea ha sslots in their bridge pin holes you do not line up the groove in the pin with the string should be able to put it in backwards facins away from the string
Click to expand...
My bridge pins have slots in them, and the bridge has slots. Are you suggesting I don't line up the slots on the pins with the slots on the bridge?
Thanks
Lori
 
Yes the slots elimnate need for grove which is causing your p[roblem
 
Thanks for the info, MGM! Right now the pins in my KoAloha are being held in by surfboard wax because I had lined up the pin slots with the bridge slots. So there's an easier solution after all!
 
DeG said:
For my ukes and guitars with bridge pins, I always keep my right hand over the pins as I tighten the tuner with my left hand. Saves on having to re-plaster the ceiling! I have launched my fair share of missles. Safety glasses are not a bad idea either, protects from strings and bridge pins causing injury.
Click to expand...

Yes, I was putting my hand over the bridge a lot after that. That bridge pin was pretty scary, and I wasn't sure my regular glasses could have protected me. Really good safety glasses would be a good idea. I am lucky that my mid century ceiling texture is immune to such minor imperfections. I wouldn't want something like that in my face though, or aimed at the TV set!
–Lori
 
Lori said:
My bridge pins have slots in them, and the bridge has slots. Are you suggesting I don't line up the slots on the pins with the slots on the bridge?
Thanks
Lori
Click to expand...

Yes, the slots in your bridge pins are basically useless.
If you were ever in the marker for an 'aftermarket' set of bridge pins, you would be safe with non- slotted replacements.

I think the slots in the stock bridge pins are what confuse people into thinking they are intended to function like a steel string acoustics's pins
 
Last edited:
mokai said:
Yes, the slots in your bridge pins are basically useless.
If you were ever in the marker for an 'aftermarket' set of bridge pins, you would be safe with non- slotted replacements.

I think the slots in the stock bridge pins are what confuse people into thinking they are intended to function like a steel string acoustics's pins
Click to expand...
My original (stock) Kanile'a bridge pins are also slotted, so I figured that was the way to go when I got the snakewood ones. But it makes sense, if the bridge already has slots, then the pins don't need them too (unless the strings are really thick?). If I use them again I will turn them backwards too.

–Lori
 
Thanks for the great diagram. I was afraid to change my strings but I will not give it a shot (bad choice of words) with the aide of your diagram.

Mahalo
 
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