I bought an old solid wood unlabeled uke (maybe an old Harmony?). It has cracks etc and a belly bulge and the bridge wasn't seated fully on the top. I took the back off to fix cracks with cleats and popped the bridge off.
Good news is that cleating and putting a bridge plate in helped to level the bellying. Now my 1st question is about the bridge. Do I measure the distance between the front of the nut to the top of the 12th fret and to the front of the saddle to set the bridge? Or do I measure from the very top of the nut...saddle? I know I'm talking microscopic differences here, but I wanted the intonation as well as it can be.
Also, there is wear on both nut and saddle (it's a glued into the bridge or possibly all carved out of one peice so that it is not seperable) plus I would like to avoid making new nut and saddle, if possible, for the first try.
Second question is this: There is a bit of potato chipping of the back side probably when I glued and clamped the cleats, and i was wondering if when I glued the back on again, will it want to pull apart or will the glue hold well enough?
Thanks in advance!
Rus
Good news is that cleating and putting a bridge plate in helped to level the bellying. Now my 1st question is about the bridge. Do I measure the distance between the front of the nut to the top of the 12th fret and to the front of the saddle to set the bridge? Or do I measure from the very top of the nut...saddle? I know I'm talking microscopic differences here, but I wanted the intonation as well as it can be.
Also, there is wear on both nut and saddle (it's a glued into the bridge or possibly all carved out of one peice so that it is not seperable) plus I would like to avoid making new nut and saddle, if possible, for the first try.
Second question is this: There is a bit of potato chipping of the back side probably when I glued and clamped the cleats, and i was wondering if when I glued the back on again, will it want to pull apart or will the glue hold well enough?
Thanks in advance!
Rus